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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i'm just curiose how hard is it to replace the rear suspension of my car as it was one of the things brought up on the mot that they will need replacing before the next mot
 

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It depends what you need. Things can be pretty rusty back there and it can be challenging to get the bolts out. Did you fail for leaking shocks? If so, those are easy.

Toby
 

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Moved to Brakes, Suspension & Chassis
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
corroded springs said they are probably the original and would need cutting off, i already have a spring compressor from another car that i never did lol,

my wife describes the ride as floaty you can hit a bump and be bouncing still a mile down the road and has had the back end come out on her going round a roundabout so have put it down to this
 

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Sounds like a spring & shock switch out is in order, I'd also do the front strut too.
 

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Replacing rear springs isn't too hard, and you should replace the shocks as well. The shock's job is to prevent the spring from reciprocating multiple times after you hit a bump, which is what causes the bouncy ride. Some people do this without spring compressors. Get the rear end on jackstands and use your jack to support the lower control arm. Unbolt the control arm from the trailing arm and then let the jack down to relax the spring. Swap in the new one and jack it back up till you can bolt it back together.

Toby
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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It's not too bad. The link you posted is for coil-overs. Those are adjustable, and people like them because they can lower their cars with the spanner wrenches. If you car is just a daily driver, you can buy plain old stock aftermarket shocks. Also, I think you said the front is already done, so you don't need those struts that come with the kit. I don't know where in the UK is the best source of parts, but shocks are very affordable, even good ones.

Toby
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i did the front from a scrap yard of a doner car lol,

so i need new springs shocks and is it worth replacing the round thing the spring sits on?
 

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It's hard to say. The lower control arm has rubber bushings that are probably worn out, and you could replace those if you wanted. I never worried about it, but admittedly my car bounces around due to all the dry-rot. The upper spring seat is actually an integral part of the rear subframe, so you don't replace that. I don't recall that there's anything else in there. Just the springs themselves.

Toby
 

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No, those guys are morons. Take the bolts out or use compressors. When they rip the first one out you can see there is a piece that comes out from the upper spring seat. I would just reuse that.

Toby
 

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You need the bottom link. The top one is mislabeled by the seller. It's a strut for the front. You would have to swap the spring and bearing plate from your old strut, that's what the pan is for. That's the lower seat. In the rear, the spring is independent, so you just by the shock.

Toby
 

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Discussion Starter #18
will replacing the front with coil overs improve handling? and how do i know what ride height the car should be,

also will there be anything else that will need replacing when i do the back like rubber washers or thread locking nuts
 

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Personally I'm not into coil-overs. Every time you adjust them you're supposed to get an alignment, and I fix my own car to save money, not so I can drive an ass dragger with a fart can zip tied to the bottom.

You shouldn't have to replace much down there. You might end up with some space between the top shock mount and the frame, which is normally filled by a foam washer. You'll see it on there. Mine was all compressed, so I stuck a rubber washer in there and it worked out great.

Toby
 

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Can't do coilovers in the front without matching lowering sprigs/adjusters/shocks in the rear.

They all start out low & adjust to lower, NOT adjustable from "stock" to lower heights. Typically start at about 1- 1.5" drop, adjustable to 2.5-3" (varies).

Good shocks/struts & springs work WELL for performance, can't mix them with stock components either. (some small drop springs are acceptable with NEW stock dampers, all work better with matched ones).
 
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