Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Good Lord. Please someone tell me how to access the rear brake drum with normal tools... I have to get in there and lube stuff up.

Every time I touch the brake pedal I hear squeaks from the back and every time I come to a stop it squeals... I know this is normal for drum brakes on the Focus, but omg this is a little ridiculous.

Please someone enlighten me on how to access them and how to lube the hell out of those drums. Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Moved to Brakes, Suspension & Chassis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,759 Posts
That procedure will not last, you angle cut the shoes themselves for a permanent lasting fix. the grease wears off and back to squeal city, mine lasted maybe 3 months. Fixed shoes and years free of it now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smokey1r

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,417 Posts
Here is how I fixed my squeak;

Grease the contact points in-between the shoes and the back plate. -and a small touch on the Cylinder <-to-> shoe contact points.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,759 Posts
The ends not the edges. And must be enough to kill the right angle markedly or wasted time. Two cars like that for years now, they squealed loud enough to wake the dead and none now using exact same shoes. Don't even need to do both ends of each shoe, rather the top of front one and bottom of the back one. The grinding must increase angle to at least 135 degrees or more..........you don't want anything approaching a hard corner there at all. The OEM shoe right angle corner allows the corner to dig into drum and shoe moves with drum then snaps loose falling back to do it again, hundreds of times a second, what makes the squeal. Why greasing the shoe contact spots on backing plate works for a while until the grease wears off or turned into mud by brake dust. The backing plate is too thin metal and rings like a bell. Remove corner off shoe ends correctly and can't dig in enough to lock the shoe then. My grind flat will be like 3/4 inch long on the thick shoe. Anything less than one half inch is wasted time, the angle will still be too steep.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smokey1r

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,487 Posts
The ends not the edges. .....

Semantics. I did both leading and trailing edges at 45 degrees (what you're calling ends) of both shoes. I thought it was obvious that the 2 long edges wouldn't do anything, so that the edges at the ends would be the ones to bevel.......


Didn't help.

All contacts have brake grease.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
45* is still a lot sharper than any I've seen that came beveled already, shallower angle & bevel further back should do the trick.

You don't have to continue it down to the metal, that part will never be worn down before replacement anyways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I tried taking off the four bolts behind the drum but I'll soon bend and destroy my wrench and angle adaptor than get one of these bolts loosened.

Any suggestions as to how I can remove these bolts safely? Do I need to buy heavy duty tools or are they abnormally rusted tight?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
753 Posts
I found it easier to remove the spindle nut.

Try tightening before loosening.
Tap on the bolts with hammer, not to disfigure but to break rust bonds.
Could try heating the bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,328 Posts
I tried taking off the four bolts behind the drum but I'll soon bend and destroy my wrench and angle adaptor than get one of these bolts loosened.

Any suggestions as to how I can remove these bolts safely? Do I need to buy heavy duty tools or are they abnormally rusted tight?
On my MK3, the four bolts that held the rear hubs had red Loctite, so heat would have helped... had I known the Loctite was there. Not sure about MK1s.

Do the bolts not move at all? Or do they get loose and then become more difficult? If they move and then become increasingly difficult, it might be rust buildup on the threads on the exposed(-ish) end of the bolt. This is what happened to me after only 3 winters (I see you're in the Toronto area). I would recommend taking the drum off and using PB Blaster and/or heat on those threads. Worst case scenario, you could try cutting the exposed part of the bolt off with a small die grinder/Dremel?

Basically, good luck. I was sore for a week after doing mine. [thumb]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Yes those bolts are tricky. I am currently trying to remove those. After spraying with WD40. I used a socket and socket wrench. I had to slide a pipe over the end of the socket wrench just to have enough leverage to turn. Well it did turn, but snapped the bolt head off. I am now in process of replacing the spindle due to this. So if you plan on removing those bolts you may be in the same situation I'm in and replace the spindle as well. Unless you plan on drilling the broken bolts out of the spindle once off and possibly retap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,759 Posts
Listen or not, mine quit making noise and stays quit, others didn't. YEARS ago now. I've give that some thought. 45 degrees is not nearly enough if one understands what you're trying to accomplish there. I copied the disc pads sailor spoke of, look at some of those. I also save like $10 on disc pad sets by buying the cheaper non-angled ones and then spending five minutes to put the angles on. Lemme see.................12 fives in one hour X $10=$120/hr. pay rate there grinding pads..............semantics anyone?????
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smokey1r

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I cleaned the brakes, lubed all the contact points, beveled the leading edge of the shoes and still have the squeal. The old shoes I took off didn't squeal. I noticed that the leading edge of the shoes were not even contacting the drum (shoes not worn in yet). This must be something about the Focus. I have done lots of brake jobs and many times just throw on a set of shoes and take off with no problems. Maybe many of the solutions that are being offered only apply to non Focus cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,759 Posts
New shoes never touch all the way across at first, the drums are worn to be a bigger OD. The noise fix applies to every car on the planet, you just likely did it incorrectly. The shoe contact thing the same way, ALL cars will do that. What you are missing there is the ability of the brake assembly 'circle' to swing out of concentric with the backing plate at low loads to still touch on the ends but not hard enough to make marking yet, that comes later. The swing is part of the enabling movement that makes the squeal.

Almost no car today can have the pads or shoes just thrown on and go, I sold them and thousands came back looking for squeak fixes and why now you sell those fixes to everybody that buys brake parts or they WILL be back complaining just like you. Even lubing up the contact points stops the noise for at least 3-6 months so that was not done correctly either, I've done it too many times and it hasn't failed once, it just doesn't last.

The asbestos in brakes is what stopped all noise, it cannot be used any longer and the materials in pad and disc or whatever had to get much closer together in hardness as a result. The other result of that is NOISE. The only error in the Focus is that the backing plate is maybe a bit too thin in metal thickness, making it ring squeal even worse than other designs, the problem IS present in most other brands out there though. Semi-metallic pad material is usually the worst.

Skills figure in there bigtime, I have no trouble at all since I developed what I do there and 3 Fords with the exact same brakes on them. Just applied it to the Nissan and no noise there either. Cheapest of the cheap pads and shoes there too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smokey1r

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Over 50 years ago I worked at a full service Chevron station. The brake van would come by and turn your drums for you. At the same time he would arc the shoes to match the drums. Every set of shoes was arced to match the drum it went on. This is not done any more. BTW, my focus shoes had a 45 degree angle. I just made the angle much sharper even though the shoes were not even contacting at the leading edge at this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Many years ago when i would work on my dads trucks servicing the drum brakes i would also carefully fit the shoes to the drum and chamfer the shoe pad material carefully with a bench grinder on the leading edge about 3/4 of an inch inward from the edge and never had any brake squeal issues!!!.... and he always insisted on semi metallic shoes!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,759 Posts
X2, my bevel is as long as that too.............3/4" to 1 full inch. It needs to be over a half inch just to be gradual enough to work.

People quit re-arcing shoes long ago, we didn't do it when I did brake work in the early '70s.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top