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Discussion Starter #1
Not looking for advice on whether to use them or not........just wanting to make sure I understand how to adjust them. I can see the cam in the middle of the bolt in the picture, and the big outward facing tabs and smaller inward facing tabs. I know that the small tabs go in the hole on each end of the bracket. It looks like to adjust you have to move the bolt head AND the big tabs all simultaneously and keep them lined up? Thanks.
 

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I Installed camber bolts on one of my old focus and just took it right in for an alignment and let them deal with it. I just ordered another set for another focus so I'm gunna try to figure it out.
 

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The tabs don't move, rotating the bolt moves the pivot in and out.

The position of the tabs depends on if you're increasing or decreasing camber, the bolt either adds or subtracts.

Also, don't torque bolt to original spec as the bolt diameter is smaller. Look up the max torque spec for a grade 8 bolt at the smaller shaft size.


Out of town, so I don't have the instructions for the tab placement............


It's not hard once you find a decent set of instructions, good luck.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm sure I'll figure it out but all the instructions I've seen, including the ones in the kit, seem backward.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have not tried to install them yet - still struggling with the instructions.

Instructions say line small tab up with lobe on bolt. They don't say whether that means high or low or any part of lobe. So let's assume they mean high.

If the lobe needs to face in to do the best job of REDUCING NEGATIVE CAMBER that means the big tab will face out toward the wheel.

No one seems to know and be able to explain clearly how to position the big outside tabs AND the fat part of the lobe to reduce neg camber. Help?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok. I dug in to the replacement and answered my own questions.

These instructions were for my left side - right will be similar.

Measured a distance between suspension subframe and lower arm at curb. Marked my two points with grease pencil. Found 7.25 inches with weight on wheels. Your measurement will vary depending on what you measure to and from - you just want a reference to know where the suspension is positioned with the car just sitting there (called "curb" position).

Loosened lugs, jacked car, added jackstand under LH rear pinch seam, finish removing lugs, removed wheel.

Let car rest on jackstand

Jacked under spring seat to raise suspension to match measurement taken above. MAKE SURE your jackstand is still holding the car. Jacking the suspension to this "curb" position makes it easier to do the work AND you want to tighten the bolt at this position so as not to preload the bushing in the arm.

Removed upper arm bolt at knuckle - was easy - no corrosion

Used dremel and 426 reinforced cutoff wheel to cut thru two tack welds holding the nut to the bracket (most of the way. Hit it with a chisel - came right off). Watch the brake line and WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN CUTTING AND GRINDING!!!!!

Cleaned up remaining weld material from bracket (used grinding stone on dremel - wear those safety glasses!!!!!) You want this nice and clean and flat in the area that the new washer will touch.

Installed camber bolt thru one washer (little tab points and goes inside hole in bracket).

Install bolt into hole front to back (like original).

Small tab goes INTO hole in bracket - don't trap it outside bracket and smash it. Note fattest part of lobe on bolt and point it AWAY from wheel. This should also correspond to a + sign or arrow on the bolt head.

I positioned the fattest part of the lobe straight in away from wheel and the BIG outward facing tab at about 45 degrees in - that is halfway between straight up and down and straight IN.

Added washer on other side of bolt - orient like the other washer - small tab in hole and fat tab pointing halfway between straight up and down and straight in. You may have to jiggle the knuckle and brake around to get this washer on with the tab in the hole. Check that the other side hasn't moved. Both small tabs MUST be in the hole.

Make sure you have everything where you want it and snug nut careful not to turn bolt. At this point I dremmeled a notch into the bolt to know where the fat part of the lobe was. Depending on brand you will have either a plus sign or an arrow at this point. I painted the notch white for future checks.

If you have a rough way to check your camber install wheel and check it now. I did not, so I torqued the NUT (don't turn the bolt- hold the bolt where you want it) to about 50 lb ft. This is about the same as I can do with two box end wrenches. The moog parts have teeth on the back of the washers to resist rotation after tightened. You'd make later minor adjustments by loosening the nut a LITTLE and turning the bolt. Other writeups are probably correct in saying that if you KNOW you want to reduce negative camber point the big tabs straight IN and away from the wheel. Finish the installation as described below and then you'll make adjustments with the bolt only.

Reinstall wheel, jack car off stand, let car down, torque lugs.

I started with 1.7 degrees neg on this side and I wanted to match the 1 degree neg on the other side. With the lobe straight IN and the fat washer tabs oriented as described I wound up with 0.9 degrees........an "improvement" of 0.8 degrees.

I finally understand the camber bolts. Fat part of lobe IN and away from wheel produces camber in POSITIVE direction. Fat tabs IN and away from wheel produces camber in positive direction. So tabs straight in and lobe straight in should result in as much camber in positive direction as possible from the bolts.

These will be easy to check at tire rotations and easy to replace if necessary.

Keep your original nut and bolt just in case!!
 
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