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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I typically do my projects over the winter. I have done a custom front air dam, mock mud guards, shrouded turn signals and painted eyebrows (I don't count the rear spoiler as I did not really 'do' that as it was a purchased item). Here is a pic.


this winter, I wanted to do something with the rear bumper. I have several designs, but also some questions/concerns that impact final selection. So, if you know the answers could you please enlighten me.
#1: On the rear bumper lower 'flat' (the inner lip that you normally don't see). There are points apparently to mount or hold something. The 'holes' are currently occupied with plastic screws. There not attached to or holding anything together. What is there purpose? (If you have an 05-07, simply feel under the bumper from the wheel well, about 6 inches back and you will find them).

#2: If I were to cut the rear bumper cover, What would be the best tool? Is this material fibrous? If I were to cut it, the cut would have to be very clean.

#3: What would I use to 'finish' the areas around the cuts? This will take some explaining. So please visualize. as an example, I would shape sheet aluminum to protrude or extend past the outer skin of the bumper cover, thereby creating a 3D diffuser effect. There would however by the inevitable 'gap' between the cover and the aluminum (I assume I will 'wander' a bit during the cutting phase. Safe to assume up to 1/16"). So what material to fill in the gap? (Please don't say fiberglass. That stuff hates me).

Thanks! [driving]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are some designs. These do not involve cutting the bumper cover. avoiding that is prob a good idea. These are actually just a valance. Note that the middle section is removable as I want access to the subframe for jacking. Please tell me which you prefer, Or, if you think they suck.
Thanks!!!

Design 1


Design 2
 

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R.I.P Kona
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Bumper is probably an abs or urethane plastic. Should not be fibrous. You could try using a dremel with a cutting disk if you have a dremel. To trim/finish edges just using fine sand paper(you will be repainting right?). Or you can use a sharp knife to plane the edges. To fill the gap you could use bonding but it has its own issues as a filler. Urethane bumper repair material could be an option or just some thin black rubber gasket material. If you're not going to cut and just one of the above designs then #1 even though they are basically the same. You could make the addition you made in #2 removable then you could go back and forth. I plan on doing a sheetmetal diffuser on mine that essentially pans the underside of the rear.
 

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coffee, have some
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I love your projects!

I honestly can't tell between which I like best, but I think the first one.

I recently cut a hole in my front bumper and it is not fiberous. But it's a lot thicker and sturdier than I anticipated. Since it was only a small 2" hole, I first drilled a pilot hole followed by a dremel with a bit exactly like 7134 listed below:



I used that bit because where I cut the hole was not exactly flat so I didn't want to use a hole saw, and a cut off wheel was too wide for the circumference. So I used that bit on a slow speed and steady pace to cut a circle out.

Don't know if that will help, but I would think a good cut off wheel at a decently slow speed would work, as to not melt the plastic too much when cutting.

Your car looks great, can't wait to see what you do next!
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I like design 1. That sure is different than going the SVT/SAP route, which is what I did for my rear bumper cover. There are push pin retainer's that postion the splash shield, 1 on each. & there is 1 on each side underneath, way up there, it best to have a light to find them,= you'll never get the cover off w/ them on, & there is 1 on each side. I like what your doing= awesome. I like the color of your car too, & I'd add the ST/SVT mirror's. Great job, let us know how it goes, huh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bumper is probably an abs or urethane plastic. Should not be fibrous. You could try using a dremel with a cutting disk if you have a dremel. To trim/finish edges just using fine sand paper(you will be repainting right?). Or you can use a sharp knife to plane the edges. To fill the gap you could use bonding but it has its own issues as a filler. Urethane bumper repair material could be an option or just some thin black rubber gasket material. If you're not going to cut and just one of the above designs then #1 even though they are basically the same. You could make the addition you made in #2 removable then you could go back and forth. I plan on doing a sheetmetal diffuser on mine that essentially pans the underside of the rear.
I did not think of the rubber gasket, or basically rubber edging. I have some for 1/16". That is a great idea. Thanks for the bumper info as I would love to fill in (shave?) the top indents. There just a pain to dry and wax. Yes I would have anything repainted by a shop.

I love your projects!

I honestly can't tell between which I like best, but I think the first one.

I recently cut a hole in my front bumper and it is not fiberous. But it's a lot thicker and sturdier than I anticipated. Since it was only a small 2" hole, I first drilled a pilot hole followed by a dremel with a bit exactly like 7134 listed below:



I used that bit because where I cut the hole was not exactly flat so I didn't want to use a hole saw, and a cut off wheel was too wide for the circumference. So I used that bit on a slow speed and steady pace to cut a circle out.

Don't know if that will help, but I would think a good cut off wheel at a decently slow speed would work, as to not melt the plastic too much when cutting.

Your car looks great, can't wait to see what you do next!
Thanks very much! I like my projects as well, they get the mind working! I thought a dremel wheel might work, but would be afraid it would grab and go. But if its not fibrous, then I could do the slow and safe method of just a hacksaw blade (maybe..). I also have a set of those bits you showed. Good to know!!!

I like design 1. That sure is different than going the SVT/SAP route, which is what I did for my rear bumper cover. There are push pin retainer's that postion the splash shield, 1 on each. & there is 1 on each side underneath, way up there, it best to have a light to find them,= you'll never get the cover off w/ them on, & there is 1 on each side. I like what your doing= awesome. I like the color of your car too, & I'd add the ST/SVT mirror's. Great job, let us know how it goes, huh.
I certainly would diss the SAP/SVT, they look great. But I like to personalize. And it's kinda nice to have a 'one off' (but it's not generally cheaper, at least not if you use aluminium). So there is supposed to be a splash shield on the back bumper? I got my car new, and it never had it. Hmmmm! Wonder what's up with that? I did not think SVT mirrors would fit my year. The changed the 'mount' on the pillar was my understanding. Mine are also electric and heated. I did not think the SVT had the heat feature(??)

Thanks all. You all sorta voted for Pic 1. But I will be doing Pic 2 as that is the one the wife prefers (If Momma's happy, Everybody's happy!). And as DirtKonaZX3 mentioned, I can always switch it back (sorta nice that bit eh?).

As a winter project, I typically will start cutting metal in Jan. Finish everything up by march then wait around for spring so I can paint it. So don't get impatient. I will post pics up of anything interesting as I go.

Thanks again!! [cheers]
 

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The splash shield is in the wheel well & is attached to your rear bumper cover inside the wheel well. The ST mirror's are electric & heated= '05-'07, so yes they w/ bolt right on, whitch are SVT mirror's. & they also fold too, instead of breaking off, when people hit things= garage's/carport's/alley's/pole's etc. That some times I replace them, @ work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The splash shield is in the wheel well & is attached to your rear bumper cover inside the wheel well.
AhHA! (I think). Either my wheel well splash shield is not attached to the rear bumper cover (I will have to check), or these attachment points are for something else. I will try to get a pic of them. Proly should have done that 1st.


The ST mirror's are electric & heated= '05-'07, so yes they w/ bolt right on, whitch are SVT mirror's. & they also fold too, instead of breaking off, when people hit things= garage's/carport's/alley's/pole's etc. That some times I replace them, @ work.
So the ST and SVT mirrors are the same?
 

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Hit up Steve @ Toulsey Ford 'bout the mirror's!

AhHA! (I think). Either my wheel well splash shield is not attached to the rear bumper cover (I will have to check), or these attachment points are for something else. I will try to get a pic of them. Proly should have done that 1st.




So the ST and SVT mirrors are the same?
^^^ Yup! Why change something if it work's great. Ford was thinking then. Their weren't thinking when it came to the rear ST brake's thou. Their already had the SVT rolling, when the ST came out= very early part of '04, so I don't understand why their didn't use the 11'' rear SVT brake's on the ST, instead of the 10'' early style ''rare option'' 10'' rear brake's on advance trac option. I do get the front's, from 10'' to 10.9'' to keep it simple= all the '05's+ have the same front rotor's. That's bad enough, then somebody discontines the FRPP's SVT rear brake kit cause= Their don't want continual making the caliper bracket= the bracket that bolts the caliper to the spindle! WOW of all thing's! Then I hear that they=FRPP's is discontining the ''94-'04 rear Cobra brake caliper= WOW WTF are thou's guy's thinking? I don't get that! Steve @ Toulsey mentioned that, when I asked 'bout the SVT caliper bracket to him. He & a lot of other people aren't happy camper's, 'bout all that! Any way hit Steve @ Toulsey ford 'bout the mirror's! Anyhow have a good dat today!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Geez! I am blind with numb fingers? I got under the rear bumper with a bright light. The attachment points fix a plastic bracket to reinforce the bumper wheel well, and also provide a point for the wheel well liner (like you said).
I would assume all the changes (brakes, mirrors etc) were due to costs. Ditto they don't want to support a vehicle that is 10+ years old because it costs so much to inventory/store them. But I agree it sucks!
 

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^^^ The brake caliper's= '94-'04 Cobra caliper's were also used on C-4 Corvette's & are by PBR= awesome caliper's & fit alot of different car's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ref post #2 above. Although I am up to design #3 (no photo), I have a another question regarding the bumper material. So! I am designing brackets, and I noted that the bumper material is very flexible. I was intending to simply use fender washers as load spreaders for the valance mount points, but am now concerned that over time these may be inadequate leading to cracks or splits in the bumper material. But I have no idea how tough this 'stuff' is. I am reluctant to make frame supports as the 'real' bumper is supposed to compress on impact. Thoughts?
Note: I also designed aluminum braces that sandwich the bumper lip. But there is not a lot of 'lip' in the middle (about 1/2"). I am thinking that perhaps I am in overkill mode though.

Also, unrelated, but my front air dam has developed a fault. Along the middle section top edge where the vertical meets the horizontal, I used body filler (very thin) to smooth the edge where the two pieces meet prior to painting. The body filler is 'chipping' out. This is because the middle section is designed to be a big 'spring' (can take a hit or a scrape and return to it's original shape). It works very well, but I was not thinking when I used body filler obviously. I need something else. So is there a sort of body filler that has a high degree of elasticity that can be painted with dupli-color? (small note, the paint is not coming off anywhere except that which covered the body filler).
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The FASCO superflex sounds very promising. I gather then that it is sandable and paintable? And by chance, did it come with anything that gave temperature limits? My air dam is aluminum, so the temps can really swing.
Thanks!!!
 

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When doing research on shaving my bumper, another member here (can't think of his name but he's doing that custom wagon SVT rear bumper) posted this product that he uses.

SEM 39767 Problem Plastic Repair Material
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
design 1!!
Design #3 actually just involves the bit towards the wheel wells. See how the 'vertical' section flares outwards? Well, after numerous tests, it was proven that the metal won't bend without 'puckering' (I don't know what else to call it). So I redid some photoshops with that bit just straight vertical but with a more prominent horizontal splitter bit. I think it looks a tad better as it more agrees the front air dam. Now, I was planning on continuing the 'splitter' bit across the whole back as it essentially reinforces the whole assembly and makes mounting/unmounting pretty simple. So, it's more than just looks. It also has to be maintainable and strong >> like the front air dam. You would not believe the abuse that has suffered (bump strips, radical driveway angles etc) and other than the body filler chipping out, the worst that has happened is the rubber rub strip on the bottom got partially peeled off. [strongman]
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will email them and get that. Thanks!!!
 
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