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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to change the rear pads on my 2003 SVT. I was wondering how many of you guys change the rotor with the pads? In olden times I would get rotors machined each time I changed pads. On my '95 BMW 318ti I just buy new rotors, they're only $40.
I've read different things about this car, some say just change the pads and don't mess with the discs at all. The car has 95k miles on it. I bought it with 55k and haven't done anything with the brakes. It has mostly highway miles so not much braking.
 

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Rotors these days are made so cheaply that having them machined generally isn't a very good idea, I tried it on two different cars. My old Contour and an 05 grand prix, both cars had serious pulsation in the brakes after about 7000 miles. The rear rotors might hold up a little better, but I would say you would be best off just getting replacement rotors, no sense in trying to save money on the part of the car that stops you.
 

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get the rotors turned or buy new ones to do it right. you could just pad slap it but you might have some noise. you can turn the rotors if they still have enough meat left and are within spec.
 

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I'd just get new rotors they are cheap. Also the rear piston turns in it does not pres in FYI.
 

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Slotted/drilled rotors are overkill unless you are really generating some major heat (auto-x for example, where pads are hot enough to have a problem with off-gassing)

Good tip about the pistons turning in above by SD Norm.

I would also advise proper heat cycling after installation, and torque your lugnuts evenly to spec to avoid warping and the resulting pedal pulse. Also, avoid getting hot rotors wet (puddles, car wash...) to help keep them true.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just finished installing the new rotors and pads. The Motorcraft pads did not come with any instructions on heat cycling/bedding them. Anybody know if there's any special process or can I find a generic 30-0 three times, 70-30 three times etc. method.
 

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I just finished installing the new rotors and pads. The Motorcraft pads did not come with any instructions on heat cycling/bedding them. Anybody know if there's any special process or can I find a generic 30-0 three times, 70-30 three times etc. method.
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

Those are the instructions from Hawk what are the pads I use should be similar no matter the pads.
 

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another good source is rotorpros.net I just got a set of drilled/slotted zink coated rotors with pads for a little over 200.00 for my cobra. I priced a set for the focus a few weeks ago with ceramic pads and it was going to be the same price. Around 220.00 I think. They will also paint the centers for you at no extra charge. I like the ones on the cobra so far.

http://www.rotorpros.net/
 
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