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Discussion Starter #1
I'm needing to know if I should go on and replace the rear shoes and hardware or not. The shoe that has the part that the E-Brake cable attaches to has like a credit card with of material left on it and I think that is kinda low but I'm not really for sure on that. I really don't know much on these newer cars so I decided to ask everyone here if that's still a good amount left or if I need to replace them. The other shoe still has a descent amount of material still left. Thanks.
 

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Moved to Brakes, Suspension & Chassis

Credit Card thickness is "paper thin" and worn out for sure.
 

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My current shoes have 48,000 miles on them and the parking brake still holds the car still if I throttle against it. If one lining is credit card thin, then go ahead and replace it all. Hardware is probably okay, though. Mine has 194,000, but granted it doesn't look too hot.

Toby
 

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If that 94,000 miles has been a lot of stop-and-go then I can understand needing to replace the shoes. If one is low just go ahead and replace both shoes on each side. The less time you have to spend repairing/maintaining drum brakes the better. They are not fun by any means.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The miles on the car are mostly highway because the car came from Texas. When I bought the car the front brakes were is sad shape but I went ahead and fixed that problem along with putting new tires on it and shocks on the back.
 

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May I ask what caused you to check the rear brakes anyway? Usually folks just wait until they start making noise to replace them since by that point (normally 150k miles) it's a good idea to replace the drums as well.
 

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The rear brakes were making noise along with a clicking noise when I applied the brakes.
Gotcha. Well it sounds like you definitely need to replace the shoes then. I'd recommend replacing the hardware as well while you're in there. The less times you have to take the drum brakes apart the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Due you know what the torque specs are for the nut along with how many times should I turn the drum assembly while tightening the nut back down.
 

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Due you know what the torque specs are for the nut along with how many times should I turn the drum assembly while tightening the nut back down.
If you're referring to the spindle nut (big 30mm one), those are 173 ft-lbs. You shouldn't have to turn the drum assembly while tightening the axle nut.
 

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Is it better to remove the nut with a breaker bar or could I use an electric impact to remove the axle nut.
Either one works but I'd probably personally use a breaker bar. Also, you will probably want to get new nuts as they are technically single use.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know it's been awhile since the last answer to this question but I forgot to ask about the drums themselves. Should I replace them or will they b fine to reuse them since I don't have any bearing noise from them. Thanks.
 

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I reused mine. Bearings felt okay and at that time there wasn't much rot. I'd say as long as you don't have any flaking on there, you're all good to reuse them.

Toby
 

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If the drums are grooved or developed a large lip you'd want to replace, otherwise you could reuse incl. the bearings as long as they came off without damage.
 
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