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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So come sunday I'm getting a 2000 Ford Focus ZX3 and apparently the rear bearings might be shot as it has some play but here is where the confusion kicks in. My dad replaced the bearings a few times and last time he tried the higher torque which was 1xx ft lbs. Bearing went. Now he said the replacement hub has tapers and if you go that high they will obviously not spin freely and fail, etc. Did the geniouses at autozone sell him the wrong part?! I'm asking because I'm trying to make a list of stuff I have to change on my new to be beater! So far also have the rear o2 that turns on the arrow light every xxx miles even though he replaced it with a bosch!? [idea]
 

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Arrow light? Do you realize that the arrow light is a shift light? That's telling you to shift gears.

Bosch O2 sensors have not been the most reliable in our experiences, but I'd like to see what the exact code is that it pulls up. Sometimes an O2 sensor code doesn't always mean that you need to replace the sensor.

From what you're describing about the rear bearings, it sounds like you might have over-torqued the hub nut. It might be more expensive, but what you should probably order is a loaded hub for drum brakes from a Ford dealer. I haven't been able to find it at national parts stores, but you can always ask. This should be the complete hub, and all you have to do is bolt your drum to it once you bolt it in the car. We have a dealer that we work with, Tousley Ford in WI, call during business hours, ask for parts, ask for Steve. Don't talk to anyone else, and tell him that he was recommended by Focus Fanatics website. Ask for a loaded rear hub. He'll ship it to you.

That should solve your rear bearing problems as long as you don't torque down too hard on the drum nut. The proper torque for the retaining nut is 173 ft lbs. You must take it down in 3 stages, and rotate the drum 10x counter clockwise between each stage. That prevents damage to the bearing from it becoming seated unevenly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry I didn't explain things right. I'm not getting the car till Sunday and its just odds and ends my dad told me soooooo. I believe your right about the bosch o2s I also never used them with much success in other cars and always stuck to NGK, etc. I noticed they make a NTK one. Is that a oem equivalent!? Well that is the funny part. He used the figure I told him of I guess 173 and thats when it went bad but then again he didn't do it in stages because he didn't know. So you break it up 173/3 and do the low, med and final 173 and rotating each time? Sounds silly but hey if it works it works! :) How much roughly is a hub? I might as well get both I guess! Thanks again for the quick and informative response! :)
 

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I have no idea what a loaded hub costs. Rock Auto sells them for $90, but I'm not sure if those a loaded or just the hub. A loaded hub will be the hub with bearings. A loaded spindle will be the spindle, hub, and bearings together.

Motorcraft OEM sensors will give you the best performance and lifetime. IF you even need one. That's why I said we needed the DTC (diagnostic trouble code) like P0171, if you're getting a code when you have the PCM scanned. If not, then you don't need to change anything right now. Plus, sometimes codes for O2 sensors are not the fault of the sensor itself- like a code indicating that the heater is not working, that could be a fuse. Damaged wiring will give an O2 sensor code, and changing the sensor for $100 won't help you at all. Always purchase OEM style O2 sensors, otherwise you end up having to splice wiring into the old OEM connector on your original O2 sensor. That leads to more trouble in the future most of the time. Typically the extra cost for an OEM style sensor is not worth the trouble of installing a generic sensor. OEM style sensors simply plug in.

Proper break up would be more like this. Put about 20 lbs on the nut to snug it. Rotate CCW 10x, then 35 lbs or so, rotate CCW, and then 75 lbs, rotate CCW, then tighten the rest of the way. You'll notice that actual rotation of the nut itself doesn't change much even though there's a great big difference in the torque. Once you get to a certain point the nut doesn't really turn much more. At a guess, from 35 to 75 will be about 180 degrees, and from 75 to 170 will be maybe 90 more if that.
 

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Bosch products are the LAST choice on my cars... Their Windshield wipers and brake parts are Stock on the car, but for aftermarket, I avoid them. Their spark plugs really muffed up a GM engine for me. I do not forgive easily. Their O2 Sensor sucked too... Generic one fits all... CRAP.

Autozone sucks.

Sorry, I'm a crank tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bosch products are the LAST choice on my cars... Their Windshield wipers and brake parts are Stock on the car, but for aftermarket, I avoid them. Their spark plugs really muffed up a GM engine for me. I do not forgive easily. Their O2 Sensor sucked too... Generic one fits all... CRAP.

Autozone sucks.

Sorry, I'm a crank tonight.
LOL no problem. I always used NGK plugs in my jap powered cars and will need to find something decent for the ZX3 once I get it. I also despise autozone but my dad is always out to save a buck even if he has to do it again lol. I usually spend more $$$ so I don't have to do it again! :) I personally go to Napa as of late so we'll see how that works out for parts! :)[wiggle]
 
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