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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK - now how do you fix this? The radio on my Ford Focus 2002 ZX3 goes up when I turn it down and down when I turn it up. Drives me nuts.
It is original - never messed with.

Also the CD player is not working. Has disk error and I can't get the stupid disk out!!! It was fine until the battery died.

O how I luv to fix my car!

Thanks!
 

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its actually common for the volume to go wonky the rheostat(volume dial) gets dirty after time (oxidization/corrosion)

give me a few I will see if I can snap pics of some of the steps and step by step this for you
 

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I have about 20 pictures on disassembly

before you can do this you will need

2 Torx Microscrewdrivers
1 can of contact cleaner
about 1 hour, some patience and a table top you can work on

P.S. as for the comment on oh how i love to fix my car... try being in my shoes.. I have 2 focus wagons both same years one has a popped motor and a disgusting interior that reeks (thats the way I bought it)
 

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kk here we go I hope you can understand the instruction
if not just ask :)

--------------------
ok heres a somewhat quick step by step on the repairs

to clean the volume knob
This is what im using as a demo unit ( its damaged beyond repair)


Remove the torx screws that each arrow is pointing at(picture 1#2)
once the screws are removed gently pull the clips that the screws were holding down and the face should pop off
** Be careful there is a ribbon cable attching the face to the motherboard, there is about 2 inch's of play though**
Picture 1

Picture 2


Once the face is removed grasp the edge's of the plug ( may be different color then mine and unplug by pulling up)
Once unplugged remove the 6 screws that are holding down the face(Picture 3) (Denoted with arrows)
once screws are removed you can remove the board from its housing
Picture 3


remove the rubber volume knob by pulling straight up
(you may see a metal clip that stayed with the shaft of the knob just remove it and reinsert in the rubber knob)
Picture 4


Take your can of contact cleaner and attach its tube for ease of use..
spray both points as shown in the pictures liberally trying to keep it off the rubber components but not constant
every so often turn the knob a few times (do the spray and turn 2-3 times)
Picture 5

Picture 6


Once done assemble it reverse to how you took it apart but leave it detached from the main body fo the radio
if you would like to remove your cd and reset the disk mechanism

-to remove a stuck disk do the following (With the face of the radio already removed)
Set a old rag/shirt down there are sharp edges on the radio and this prevents damage

Remove the 2 Upper from the back of the radio denoted in picture 7
once the screws are removed pop the top lid off the radio
Picture 7

Picture 8

once inside you will have to remove 5 more screws to remove the CD mechinism
the screws are found here (all denoted in the pictures with arrows)
Picture 9 - 2 screws inside on the back case
Picture 10 - 1 ouside on the heatsink (aluminum plate)
Picture 11 - 2 Front below the cd slot
Picture 9

Picture 10

Picture 11


once removed carefully lift the cd mechanism out of the radio taking care not to rip the Ribbon cable
Picture 12



While cradling the mechinism ( or put a book/piece of cardboard down where you can lay it down without pulling on the ribbon)
grab both edges of the connector ( shown in picture where to grab with arrows)
slowly/carfully pull up till it stops/make like a click feeling and the ribbon will pull out without effort
you may rock the connector edges carefully to get it to unlock and release the cable
Picture 13


(I stuck and manually fed a cd into my mechanism to show how it easy it is to remove it)
Picture 14


on the side of the mechanism you will see a motor with a worm gear
on the front of the worm gear(closest to the motor - shown in picture 15) there is a clean spot where you can spin the gear with a screwdriver
a clearer picture of the gear in Picture 16
Picture 17 is of the motor again with the mounting plate removed just to show it, you don't have to remove the plate
Picture 15

Picture 16

Picture 17


spin the worm gear downwards ( lay the mechanism down right side up and turn the gear down from the side..
this is the the patience part of the fix you have to spin this ALOT to get the disk to eject once its about 1 inch out pull the disk out and reassemble
beacuse the mechanism is now half way on a load the radio will recalibrate the mechinism and should work after that ( mine jammed and it worked fine after I did the fix)
Picture 18
 

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Yes, wow...this is very awesome and helpful! I feel like an idiot when I go to turn down the radio just a tad and it turns up a few notches and I jump.

My thing is that I am way too nervous to touch anything in my 2000 Focus because I just feel like it'll permanently break. [wrenchin] Her parts ain't exactly new.
 

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:D I know the feelin
I have 2 00/01 wagons

if I could get my hands on a bunch of defectives I would rebuild em test em and make em work and have like a trade in you send me your broken one and I send out a rebuilt one but these radios are hard to come by and the scrapyards all contain busted ones :( somone tried removing them by prying on the faces and tearing them off
 

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(( REPOST AS I AM UNABLE TO EDIT THE ORIGINAL TO FIX THE IMAGES))


kk here we go I hope you can understand the instruction
if not just ask :)

--------------------
ok heres a somewhat quick step by step on the repairs

to clean the volume knob
This is what im using as a demo unit ( its damaged beyond repair)


Remove the torx screws that each arrow is pointing at(picture 1#2)
once the screws are removed gently pull the clips that the screws were holding down and the face should pop off
** Be careful there is a ribbon cable attching the face to the motherboard, there is about 2 inch's of play though**
Picture 1

Picture 2


Once the face is removed grasp the edge's of the plug ( may be different color then mine and unplug by pulling up)
Once unplugged remove the 6 screws that are holding down the face(Picture 3) (Denoted with arrows)
once screws are removed you can remove the board from its housing
Picture 3


remove the rubber volume knob by pulling straight up
(you may see a metal clip that stayed with the shaft of the knob just remove it and reinsert in the rubber knob)
Picture 4


Take your can of contact cleaner and attach its tube for ease of use..
spray both points as shown in the pictures liberally trying to keep it off the rubber components but not constant
every so often turn the knob a few times (do the spray and turn 2-3 times)
Picture 5

Picture 6


Once done assemble it reverse to how you took it apart but leave it detached from the main body fo the radio
if you would like to remove your cd and reset the disk mechanism

-to remove a stuck disk do the following (With the face of the radio already removed)
Set a old rag/shirt down there are sharp edges on the radio and this prevents damage

Remove the 2 Upper from the back of the radio denoted in picture 7
once the screws are removed pop the top lid off the radio
Picture 7

Picture 8

once inside you will have to remove 5 more screws to remove the CD mechinism
the screws are found here (all denoted in the pictures with arrows)
Picture 9 - 2 screws inside on the back case
Picture 10 - 1 ouside on the heatsink (aluminum plate)
Picture 11 - 2 Front below the cd slot
Picture 9

Picture 10

Picture 11


once removed carefully lift the cd mechanism out of the radio taking care not to rip the Ribbon cable
Picture 12



While cradling the mechinism ( or put a book/piece of cardboard down where you can lay it down without pulling on the ribbon)
grab both edges of the connector ( shown in picture where to grab with arrows)
slowly/carfully pull up till it stops/make like a click feeling and the ribbon will pull out without effort
you may rock the connector edges carefully to get it to unlock and release the cable
Picture 13


(I stuck and manually fed a cd into my mechanism to show how it easy it is to remove it)
Picture 14


on the side of the mechanism you will see a motor with a worm gear
on the front of the worm gear(closest to the motor - shown in picture 15) there is a clean spot where you can spin the gear with a screwdriver
a clearer picture of the gear in Picture 16
Picture 17 is of the motor again with the mounting plate removed just to show it, you don't have to remove the plate
Picture 15

Picture 16

Picture 17


spin the worm gear downwards ( lay the mechanism down right side up and turn the gear down from the side..
this is the the patience part of the fix you have to spin this ALOT to get the disk to eject once its about 1 inch out pull the disk out and reassemble
beacuse the mechanism is now half way on a load the radio will recalibrate the mechinism and should work after that ( mine jammed and it worked fine after I did the fix)
Picture 18
 

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Old post and much has probably changed. The picture 1 and 2 there show front cover side attachment that commonly crumbles to not hold the front on any longer, the picture 3 shows all the screws that commonly break the plastic stands off when you try to unscrew them too, at least whichever ones are not already broken in pieces. I had to improvise on mine, all of the screws shown there had nothing to screw them into, they all broke into dust. The junkyard ones I found were the same way, just removing them carefully from the dash broke the fronts off in your hand.

CD mechanism the same way, the thin plastic molded over very thin sheetmetal commonly breaks up to leave big pieces all inside the CD section to jam up the works. There is no fixing of that, period.

At least here in Texas where it gets hot, the units are pretty much garbage as Ford used PS plastic there that biodegrades as it sits to fall apart.

The volume control is not a rheostat (analog), rather, a digital rotary encoder, anything wrong with it to make the logic pulses miss one pulse and the staged hi/lo timing then flips to lo/hi to make the volume work backward. Or either way simply turns the volume higher and higher, there is no lowering. I changed one encoder on the board (cost $1.65 IIRC) and it worked fine but then the rest of the unit simply fell apart, there was no getting it back together a third time. I did once but then it fell apart even more. The dang thing was absolutely not made to last long term. Nice while it was still together though. More Ford stuff made to give out on you to coerce you into buying a new car.
 

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Old post and much has probably changed. The picture 1 and 2 there show front cover side attachment that commonly crumbles to not hold the front on any longer, the picture 3 shows all the screws that commonly break the plastic stands off when you try to unscrew them too, at least whichever ones are not already broken in pieces. I had to improvise on mine, all of the screws shown there had nothing to screw them into, they all broke into dust. The junkyard ones I found were the same way, just removing them carefully from the dash broke the fronts off in your hand.

CD mechanism the same way, the thin plastic molded over very thin sheetmetal commonly breaks up to leave big pieces all inside the CD section to jam up the works. There is no fixing of that, period.

At least here in Texas where it gets hot, the units are pretty much garbage as Ford used PS plastic there that biodegrades as it sits to fall apart.

The volume control is not a rheostat (analog), rather, a digital rotary encoder, anything wrong with it to make the logic pulses miss one pulse and the staged hi/lo timing then flips to lo/hi to make the volume work backward. Or either way simply turns the volume higher and higher, there is no lowering. I changed one encoder on the board (cost $1.65 IIRC) and it worked fine but then the rest of the unit simply fell apart, there was no getting it back together a third time. I did once but then it fell apart even more. The dang thing was absolutely not made to last long term. Nice while it was still together though. More Ford stuff made to give out on you to coerce you into buying a new car.
meh i repair them all the time i don't have that issue, im also in canada so our cars dont turn to dust in the heat they just turn into rust from the salt we use.
as for the dials its a rheostat as i open them up and repair not a huge problem but i found a new way of making it easier to clean reguardless a little plastic cutting..

as for electronics they are still called rheostats/potentiometer regardless of digital or analog. i wrote that YEARS ago before i actually opened one. i wrote that as a quick and dirty fix for the volume knobs for the ones that would rather keep the stock radios

as for repairing the headunits tabs for the faces i even do that.. again canada xD its cold more then its warm xD so we just have to worry about plastics cracking due to cold [neener]
 

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I repaired the faces too but only so much you can do until nothing left there to repair.

You do realize a rheostat increases with turning right? An encoder does not. Anybody calling an encoder a rheostat............well, you'll get some looks here doing that. They work and appear totally different inside and cannot be interchanged.

Ya'll got the rust and I got the temp, one just cannot win.
 

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This sounds like my wonky volume knob.

Sometimes I can get it to respond right if I click it one click at a time if I pause for a second. Sometimes it will go in the opposite direction.

If I crank up or, down fast, it can end up anywhere but, often ends up on zero.


 

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very typical to them all actually i have the 6 disk in my 02 i have a single in my 03 i have a blaupunkt in my 01 and i have the factory single in my 06 and they ALL do that hence im getting used to the steering controls xD..
 

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I'm gonna give this a go.
I just went through the Automatic Volume Control to make sure it was off.
I like the way a cleaning sounds.
 

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go for it xD usually works every time for me... those radios in those pictures i took in 2009 are still IN my cars xD the 6 disk is in the 02 i just pulled from storage and the single is in a bin in my garage out of my 03 LOL
 

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Volume knob is usually happy if you turn it at a reasonable speed, spinning it confuses it entirely.

Adjust a few clicks at most is all that's usually needed, normal changes of a click or two are all I usually use.
 

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or do what i do.. punch the face or use your transmitter to adjust the volume LOL
 

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It's a little different. no ribbon connection.
It seemed like it helped at first but, it's still wonky.

I went through the motions 4 times cautiously. maybe a little to cautious?
maybe I'll give it another more thorough go..?

It seems like a doable part swap? if I could get it..



 

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the images i provided was from a single disk... the 6 disk uses pin headers as connectors

and what do you mean doable?? spraying it down or replacing it???
 
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