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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I've got a 2003 SE with 116K miles. Haven't checked clearances as of yet, but it sounds like it's time for valve lash adjustment. Judging from the handy Haynes manual, the timing cover has to be removed to release timing chain tension.

Is there an alternative (special tool, etc.) to this method?

Thanks.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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never heard of anyone having to do this on a duratec, and theres no haynes manual that covers the duratec...its only the zetec
 

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never heard of anyone having to do this on a duratec, and theres no haynes manual that covers the duratec...its only the zetec
The haynes manual does cover from 2000-2005 and does cover Duratec 2.0 and 2.3, but to my knowledge the type-out in the book is really etchy and lack of detail.
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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maybe, idk the only one we can get at work is 00-01 only for some reason, those books are useless anyways...i'll look in my ford shop manual and see if i find anything about it...
 

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There shouldn't be any adjustment on our valvetrains. Its not your typically lifter arm application. The cam actuates the valves directly through a tappet mounted on a bucket over the valve springs I believe. These tappets can be replaced if they are scored beyond tolerance (which would kinda be a valve adjustment I guess) but they are typically VERY tough and never need servicing.

This system is also why our valvetrains tend to be very noisy.
 

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^^^ I kinda figured that, and what a pain in the rear end that maybe if we were to adjust valves semi-often.
 

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The Duratec valvetrain has select fit buckets. There are no shims to facilitate adjustment, the buckets are fitted at the factory.
No adjustment is required for the 150K mile design life.

My valvetrain has never been noisy, in fact the injectors tick louder than anything else in the motor.

David

There shouldn't be any adjustment on our valvetrains. Its not your typically lifter arm application. The cam actuates the valves directly through a tappet mounted on a bucket over the valve springs I believe. These tappets can be replaced if they are scored beyond tolerance (which would kinda be a valve adjustment I guess) but they are typically VERY tough and never need servicing.

This system is also why our valvetrains tend to be very noisy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Interesting. One correction: The manual is the 2000-2005 Chilton's vice Hayes. Ford does sell cam follors (buckets) in different thicknesses for $12.35 a pop. It may be so the noise is an injector tick. How can I tell (other than pulling the cam cover and measuring valve clearances)?

Thanks...

A6
 

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First you need to pull the cover and check clearances , then when you find one with more or less clearance then it should have you have to remove that bucket and see what size it is then add or subtract from that to order the proper size to get proper clearance, all buckets are etched in MM on the inside of the bucket , If you havent done this before with a chain drive you may want to get help before trying it

Tom
 

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Get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the cam cover. Then put it on each injector (careful, it can be really loud).

This way, you can identify the particular noise, as well as determine from where it's originating.

David

Interesting. One correction: The manual is the 2000-2005 Chilton's vice Hayes. Ford does sell cam follors (buckets) in different thicknesses for $12.35 a pop. It may be so the noise is an injector tick. How can I tell (other than pulling the cam cover and measuring valve clearances)?

Thanks...

A6
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
First you need to pull the cover and check clearances , then when you find one with more or less clearance then it should have you have to remove that bucket and see what size it is then add or subtract from that to order the proper size to get proper clearance, all buckets are etched in MM on the inside of the bucket , If you havent done this before with a chain drive you may want to get help before trying it

Tom
Understood. Here's the deal: Last time I adjusted a DOHC, mechanical, valve train was on a '79 KZ650C. Same in principle, with a couple of departures. First, the buckets have buttons (or shims) underneath to adjust the clearance. Second, and most critically in contrast, the cam chain tensioner was accessed outside of the engine case.

I was hoping someone out there had broken the code on releasing cam chain tension on the PZEV. A special tool, a stategic hole in the timing chain cover, et.al. As I read it, all of the accessories, the crank pulley/balancer and a motor mount have to be removed prior to pulling the timing chain cover (spans the entire front of the engine) to gain access to the tensioner.

I suppose this aligns with the 150K service life of the engine. This depth of maintenance begs cylinder head overhaul, accessory replacement and so forth. Bottom end has a pretty good track record (typical service) to go beyond the specified 150K. That said, the expectation is to take it to the limit, top overhaul at 150K, and watch oil pressure and other vitals for clues as to re-ring/re-bearing.

Driving profile is 60 miles each way home to work and back. Occassional duals with Civics/Altimas/Jettas once in town traffic.

We always win.

Regards,

A6
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Get a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the cam cover. Then put it on each injector (careful, it can be really loud).

This way, you can identify the particular noise, as well as determine from where it's originating.

David
David,

Thanks for the nudge. My Mustang ('85 GT) had a "oh-no" noise. Pulling the accessory drive belt cured it; but, which accessory was hurt?

On the recommendation of a friend, I reinstalled the belt and used a 1/2" X 24" extension as a sounding device. A/C pump? Nope. Idler pulley? Nope. Water pump? Bingo! Bearing(s) were shot. Interesting sidebar is there was no other indication, i.e. coolant out of the weep hole.

Thanks again,

A6
 
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