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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok ive decided that come spring time, i will procharge my svt... i plan to save up and buy the required parts from now and over winter, so can anyone tell me exactly everything ill need, i know the tuner kit doesn't come with everything... i know im going to need new injectors, what else doesnt the kit come with?
 

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I don't mean to plug, but.... I'm potentially selling an entire ProCharger setup on the BST section. It's got every last thing you'd need (sans the tune) to successfully produce up to ~330hp. Check it out, at least for information's sake here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't mean to plug, but.... I'm potentially selling an entire ProCharger setup on the BST section. It's got every last thing you'd need (sans the tune) to successfully produce up to ~330hp. Check it out, at least for information's sake here.
thanks, honestly if i had all the money now i would take it in a heartbeat, but i just bought my svt so i have some serious saving to do again before i can make this purchase
 

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RyEND your SVT with a PC makes 330HP to the wheels ???? What mods ? and at what RPM

If you cannot be talked out of going PC then at lease when you order your kit step up to the next larger SC unit this will help a lot and should of been the SC that came in the kit

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RyEND your SVT with a PC makes 330HP to the wheels ???? What mods ? and at what RPM

If you cannot be talked out of going PC then at lease when you order your kit step up to the next larger SC unit this will help a lot and should of been the SC that came in the kit

Tom
step up to the larger unit? is that the actual blower orthe 10 psi instead of 8? if i do the 10psi wont i need to do the clutch right away too?
 

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RyEND your SVT with a PC makes 330HP to the wheels ???? What mods ? and at what RPM
Tom, the ProCharger will do ~330hp with the 2.55" blower pulley (advertised as the 10psi pulley) matched up with the 5.7" OD crank pulley. That setup spins the blower to just under the 80k efficiency limit at 7400rpm. The car that made 330 had an entire 3" exhaust, the FMIC conversion, upgraded transmission (a stage 5 + LSD).

step up to the larger unit?
I think "next larger SC unit" that Tom is referring to is the C-2 unit rather than the C-1. Technically, they both have the same rpm limit, but the C-2 moves slightly more air (1100cfm compared to 1000cfm)

is that the actual blower or the 10 psi instead of 8? if i do the 10psi wont i need to do the clutch right away too?
The 8/10psi you're referring to has to do with the blower pulley. The smaller the blower pulley, the higher the psi (and the bigger the crank pulley, the more the psi) Which is why if you combine the smaller blower pulley with the bigger crank pulley, you can get 15+ psi. I'd suggest getting a new clutch even with the 8. You're going to chew through the stock clutch pretty quickly.




The great thing about the ProCharger is that if you have the $$ you can buy it brand new for ~4k (although you'll need another $2500 to buy the extras that you need + a tune). I believe the upgraded blower is an extra $400 if my memory serves me well.
 

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It seems like alot of work to over spin that thing when a turbo setup is so much easier and better for a dd with the same amount of whp
 

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First off, it's not being overspun. The blower is efficiency rated up to 80k. Anything higher than that would be technically "overspinning". You would still gain power, but it would cost more RPMs for less boost than pre 80k.

Second, a ProCharger SC setup is not harder than a turbo setup. If anything, it's easier. You get to avoid replacing both manifolds and you don't need to integrate oil management.

Third, some would argue that a SC is better for a DD. It depends on what you want. If you want in your face, rod snapping torque at 2200RPM that will fall off north of 5500, then yeah, you should probably go turbo. But to me, that sounds like racing... not daily driving.
 

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Second, a ProCharger SC setup is not harder than a turbo setup. If anything, it's easier. You get to avoid replacing both manifolds and you don't need to integrate oil management.

Third, some would argue that a SC is better for a DD. It depends on what you want. If you want in your face, rod snapping torque at 2200RPM that will fall off north of 5500, then yeah, you should probably go turbo. But to me, that sounds like racing... not daily driving.
Second, actually a PC is harder on the engine because to make that 330 you waste about 100 pound foot of TQ and about 40-60HP just to turn the PC , you do NOT have to change the intake manifold to do turbo , so with a turbo you would be making about 100 pound foot more TQ and 40-60+ more HP at and earlier more useable RPM at the same boost , If you let off with the PC at the safe 7200 you should be doing because of the oil pump I think you will find that will a ton of mods you will only be in the 290 to 300HP range at the wheels

Third, why does everyone think that a turbo is in your face, rod snapping torque ????? a turbos hp/tq only responds to where you have the throttle , Yes if you floor it it will make full boost , if your daily driving then a turbo is as good as a SC if not better because to pass some one you get the on demand TQ at about any rpm to pass some one with out going full throttle and dropping a gear to do so , a turbo is 100% a daily driver and like stated as good if not better then the PC SC

Tom
 

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^ Tom... has anyone done like a "mid-mount" style turbo (mounted off of the SVT header for example) on the focus before? Just wondering..
 

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step up to the larger unit? is that the actual blower orthe 10 psi instead of 8? if i do the 10psi wont i need to do the clutch right away too?
PC offers what they call a larger unit it use to be called the C2 but they changed that as of the conversation I had with PC 3 weeks ago , they change the impelle so it moves about 12% more air at the same RPM as the STD kit SC unit, In my opinion this is the unit that should of been in the kit in the first place , I dont think there are many if anyone one else that has done this upgrade but it helps a lot

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok so back to the main question though, if i were to even get this upgrade, what else would i need that doesnt come with the kit?
 

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Second, actually a PC is harder on the engine because to make that 330 you waste about 100 pound foot of TQ and about 40-60HP just to turn the PC , you do NOT have to change the intake manifold to do turbo , so with a turbo you would be making about 100 pound foot more TQ and 40-60+ more HP at and earlier more useable RPM at the same boost , If you let off with the PC at the safe 7200 you should be doing because of the oil pump I think you will find that will a ton of mods you will only be in the 290 to 300HP range at the wheels

Third, why does everyone think that a turbo is in your face, rod snapping torque ????? a turbos hp/tq only responds to where you have the throttle , Yes if you floor it it will make full boost , if your daily driving then a turbo is as good as a SC if not better because to pass some one you get the on demand TQ at about any rpm to pass some one with out going full throttle and dropping a gear to do so , a turbo is 100% a daily driver and like stated as good if not better then the PC SC

Tom
Yeah I guess "rod snapping torque" was a bit harsh =P

I've just always seen that it's MUCH easier to mash the throttle and blow up your engine with a turbo. With a turbo you will see a much bigger difference because of the nature of it. With a SC, you just see a linear increase in torque, leading to a higher HP value. Totally different, again, it just comes down to what you want/can get.

Yeah, only one manifold. I brain farted there.

Saying a PC is harder on the engine than a turbo is somewhat of a misnomer... The higher (potential) burst torque of a turbo is MUCH worse for the engine than parasitic loss from a SC (the whole, it takes work to do work). In the end, I've seen SC engines last 200,000+ miles and I've seen turbo'd engines last 200,000+ miles. It depends on the tune and how well you take care of things.
 

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ok so back to the main question though, if i were to even get this upgrade, what else would i need that doesnt come with the kit?
Injectors, MAFia, Air/Fuel and J&S knock gauge (if you want to tune w/ tom), colder spark plugs, and a tune. (I think the kit comes w/ a belt) You'll also probably want to upgrade you exhaust, as the stock exhaust will be bottlenecking w/ boost, along with your clutch. You'll wear the stock clutch out fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Injectors, MAFia, Air/Fuel and J&S knock gauge (if you want to tune w/ tom), colder spark plugs, and a tune. (I think the kit comes w/ a belt) You'll also probably want to upgrade you exhaust, as the stock exhaust will be bottlenecking w/ boost.
cool thanks, so i can still just get a flash tune for a procharger and itll work fine?
 

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cool thanks, so i can still just get a flash tune for a procharger and itll work fine?
You'll need a custom tune for boost. There were a few companies that sold cookie cutter tunes for their kits, but the ATI unit isn't one of them. Especially for the SVT, you're going to want someone who is familiar with tuning a blown SVT to tune it. Gonna cost you about a grand for tuning alone.
 

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^^ A grand for tuning??? What? Tom does it with the xcal3 for under $500 (xcal3 included in price) I believe...
 

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I've always understood it as 550 + the cost of the tuner (379) so 929.

I'm sure he'll correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Yeah... That is not even close.. It's like $379 or some such for tuner and tune with free lifetime updates.. may be another $100 or so for boosted tunes.
 
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