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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have this procharged SVT Focus thats been running like crap lately. My mechanical skills = 0, so im gonna need it fixed by a 3rd party. It was tuned by Tom and ran great for a couple of months. Now, it shutters on startup, barely idles when not warm making a rattling/shaking noise, wont hold boost etc.. Its okay at HW speed while not in boost but thats about the only time.

If you had these symptoms, what would be your approach? Ive already had a shop uninstall the supercharger to be rebuilt and check the alternator (since the light was on) and both checked out fine.
 

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I AM DA FOCI FANATIC
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I would start with a compression test, and contact Tom to double check the tune. I'm sure the tune is fine though.

Are you running stock internals?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, Soapy water and engine idling still the best way to do this? I cannot express to you the mechanical-retardation that is my automotive repair skill. So any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Change your oil and if you have any shaving in the pan.

If you can find a spay bottle you can try that. What kind of Bypass valve do you have?
 

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I AM DA FOCI FANATIC
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So, Soapy water and engine idling still the best way to do this? I cannot express to you the mechanical-retardation that is my automotive repair skill. So any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Find a section of hose and put it to your ear. Then move it around the intake manifold and listen for a hissing sound.

If not that then spray carb cleaner, the engine will suck it in if there is a vac leak and cough.
 

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WWTPD?
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Sounds like a vacuum leak. For the mechanically-challenged, start with tightening all hose clamps.

The bypass/diverter valve may be stuck open, check for this visually (you may have to turn some bolts and remove it).

Check if the IC is full of oil by removing one side of the charge pipe, just undo the coupler and pull it off. IF it is, your MAF is fouled which also produces the symptoms. Take it out with the proper torx head on a screwdriver (go to HF and buy a set of torx bits). Take the MAF and spray it with carb cleaner or electric parts cleaner.

If none of that works, I'd take it to a shop and have them check compression in all 4. The SVT will show lowish compression compared to what THEY expect but as long as its similiar across the board your fine. Pull #12 fuse to disable the fuel during this or you will wash your cylinders with fuel = BAD!

GL
 

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Too bad I'm not stateside right now. I'll tell ya to just bring it over and we could look it over.
 

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yeah..if the FRONT o2 goes bad your MPG will suffer and it won't run as smooth.....mine went bad and that happened.....
 

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Would that not throw a code though?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just ordered new plugs, o2 sensors and silicon hoses for the intake manifold. When i was running it there was a lot of movement on the passenger side of the car when i rev'd it. The intake manifold was moving quite a bit and there was a pretty profound hissing noise. I did the carb cleaner thing and was unable to find any other possible leaks, but thats when i noticed the intake mani moved a lot but only one side.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I know its been a bit, but i would like to thank all of you that helped me with this particular issue. 2 problems, couplers were loose, and were replaced with the CFM replacemtns. There was a t-joint that had a pretty huge leak as well, that was kinda near the intake mani, so it was obscured by the couplers, but was fixed.

After both those were done the idle was kinda funky, so we replaced both the o2 sensors and shes running like a champ. 2 things left. Replace the pulley and belt and get some freshly gapped plugs
 

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Awesome, glad that beast is almost back up to snuff. I'm the proud owner of a supercharged SVTF myself, and also a little intimidated at the maintenance that may be required.
 

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You should try my maintenance before the warped head...hehehe. [:D]
 

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I know its been a bit, but i would like to thank all of you that helped me with this particular issue. 2 problems, couplers were loose, and were replaced with the CFM replacemtns. There was a t-joint that had a pretty huge leak as well, that was kinda near the intake mani, so it was obscured by the couplers, but was fixed.

After both those were done the idle was kinda funky, so we replaced both the o2 sensors and shes running like a champ. 2 things left. Replace the pulley and belt and get some freshly gapped plugs
When you get it back runing and go for a WOT run make sure the AF looks right in the upper 10`s if not let off and lets get you safe

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I did do a little rundown and noticed the AFR was right where you tuned it for at this altitude. I had to switch settings on the MAFia back to 1 to get this result, but it is running smooth and good. In the near future im gonna get a dyno session and have the results logged for you to take a look ;)

BTW will i have to retune in order to switch from the stock intercooler to a front mount?
 
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