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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening Focus Fanatics community.

I apologize if my thread seems to be mis-categorized or in the wrong place! [thankyou]

I have a 2002 Ford Focus zx3 Zetec that I'm trying to breathe some new life into. I've had it about a year (first Ford!), it's currently at 125k miles.

A couple weeks ago, I had a problem with stalling out when idling, as well as extremely rough idling. Codes spit up and pointed me toward the bank 1/sensor 1 o2 sensor. I decided to replace both in one go two weeks ago. I put about a hundred miles on without any problem at all. A slight sputter when idle, but nothing major. Two days after the new ones on, problems began again and even more intense than the last time. I had to pop my zx3 in neutral (it's auto) and rev at stop signs and red lights. Even scarier was the last ride home where the entire car shut off and stalled out mid-turn at an intersection, with all the lights blowing up on my dashboard (check battery, check engine) :)

At any rate, I decided to go all out after the 2 new o2 sensors and replace:
-DPFE sensor
-MAF sensor
-air filter
-EGR valve

I managed to pull off the air-box and all just fine. Also wiped down the throttle body with some cleaner while I was at it. I'm now at a point where I'd like to replace the old rusted EGR valve with a new one.

Having two problems with this:
1.) Can't get the top hose off

and

2.) Can't get the bottom unscrewed.

I'm just the average DIY-er who isn't all that mechnically inclined, trying to save a buck from shop prices (I'm a web-programmer by day, robotics hacker by night). I'd hate to keep tugging on the top hose, and keep trying to spin out the bottom. What's happening is when I'm unscrewing the bottom, the whole EGR valve is spinning with it. This is resulting in it pushing up against the side-mount (see video).

To speed up where I'm stuck, I posted a video on YouTube:

http://youtu.be/A-5ru_7opag

Thank you, and I apologize to any FF veterans I may have offended with my noob naievety :)

Kind regards,
Ryan
 

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DTC P0606
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EGR valves don't fail that frequently; they're too simple. It's a vacuum operated valve. They can rust on the outside and look ugly but function fine. A preliminary test would be to remove the hose on the top - cut it off if necessary, it's a simple friction/push fit - and then apply vacuum to the valve. You can do this by literallyy sucking on a small hose attached to the fitting on top. Once you relieve the vacuum, you should here an audible thunk as the internal spring forces the valve closed again. If it passes this intial test, chances are the valve is not the source of your problem. (To remove the EGR valve operation from the diagnostic equation completely, remove the hose on top and block both open ends with golf tees and see if the problem gets better.) btw, the EGR valve only operates (opens) at cruising speeds under normal circumstances.

Search this site for PCV hose leaks. They are responsible for the majority of inconsistent, rough idle/stalling problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks BC_ZX3.

I'll try testing the EGR Valve with your suggestion. I actually had a friend just say to try and cut off the top.

I was mainly trying to just give my ZX3 some fresh parts, since they're so inexpensive (EGR valve netted for $25 on eBay, brand new. MAF and DPFE were under $30 each as well).

Thanks for the suggestion too to search for PCV leaks. I'll look around and see where most others are having problems with leaks and search my Focus for them. [8D]
 

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Vince your Moderator
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The rear PCV hose is a common failure point. Contact Andy at Village Ford in the vendor section for a dicounted price FWIW.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks freemind,

by the way fella's, I was kind of surprised when I found this video of this 2001 focus owner. His symptoms were exactly like my idle, and I spit a P0171 just like him (which is what prompted me to replace my o2 sensors, probably didn't have to now that I'm looking back at it).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSSru8eN-PI

I'm definitely going to check for a hose leak at this point.. Probably should have been the first thing done before I went on a new-parts spree. Hehe. (two o2 sensors, MAF sensor, DPFE sensor, EGR valve, Air filter, all well under $150, though) :)

I'd still like to replace this bugger though while I have the whole air-box and intake assembly off.. A buddy just suggested letting it soak in penetrating oil a while (that bottom bolt). I did give it a pretty decent amount earlier.. hopefully it'll settle in over night.

Edit:
I remember why I decided to try and replace the EGR valve -- I had a friend suggest that maybe the gate was stuck wide open, which is supposedly common according to one link for the codes it was giving. Will try and find the link, but it's a long shot seeing as I have 26 focus-related bookmarks in the past 2 mo's alone.. Also, one youtuber who had a focus said a bad EGR valve and replacing fixed his idle problems.. will try and find that one too..
 

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Throwing parts is always easier than thinking.............
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Throwing parts is always easier than thinking.............
..but it's always fun to tinker and learn new things. Knew cars recirculate exhaust emissions but had no idea how it all worked until the past few weeks. I found an excellent guide pertaining to DPFE/EGR here: http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/ford-dpfe-sensor-and-egr-system/

Also, the 'rear PCV hose' you speak of, is that the same one as it pertains to this write-up at FocusHacks for a pcv valve replacement, accessible from under the car? http://www.focushacks.com/mod/PCV_Valve_replacement_(Zetec_engine,_maybe_others)

Sorry, still learning my way around the under-hood. [:D]

I'm gonna try my hand at getting off the old EGR valve again tonight. I'm probably going to screw back in the two bolts holding it on the bracket and then twist the nut.. maybe will keep the whole valve from spinning. If it starts to look like unnecessary damage though, I'll just give up on trying to replace it and settle with the new DPFE and MAF sensors. Hate to look at a new part on the shelf and know it could be in my Focus though!
 

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The PCV hose runs from just under the thermostat housing on the driver's side of the engine around the back and under the intake manifold. It may look okay, but odds are it has a flat spot in the 90 degree bend, or has turned porous with age.

Welcome to the Zetec family! I've had two now that have done ridiculously high mileage under severe conditions, and I've been quite happy with them both.
Good job on tinkering your way through...this is a great spot for advice and help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I managed to get it off afterall. PB Blaster > Liquid Wrench. It probably doesn't help either that I was turning the bolt the wrong direction (turn it clockwise!)

At any rate,
-EGR Valve replaced
-DPFE Sensor replaced
-MAF Sensor replaced

With all that, as soon as I cranked it (with my fingers crossed), it went into a usual high rev, and then stayed well above 1000 RPM's, then eventually dropped and started sputtering. At this point, I started to observe a heavy hissing (sure tell sign of a vacuum leak..?). It's mostly prominent when I stick my head underneath the front of the car, around the downstream o2 sensor. This makes me definitely agree with everyone's initial thought that it's a PCV leak. Good thing I ordered a new PCV valve and hose yesterday.

Could anyone happen to link me a picture of where exactly the hose/valve are and accessible? I can't seem to find an image or video.. and if I have, it's for an earlier engine, and not a Zetec. Sorry again, for my noob-naivety :)

I tried looking around the driver's side of the engine around the intake manifold, then again it was kind of dark, and I don't know exactly what connects where. Was just trying to look for parts similar to the ones I got from rockauto ordered yesterday :)
 

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Let me know what you will end up with
because I have the same problem and I already replaced hose and valve
and still runs like crap at the idle and MPG is ridiculous
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm gonna have another look tomorrow when I get home from work (5pm est), but I took a quick look when I got home today (was too tired of working on the thing after a few hours this morning for all the new parts) and I did find this little gem, slipped right off when I was feeling around the rubbers for any cracks.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzp5pbY0AjWrZmVybXNiWF9NeUk/view?usp=sharing

The hose itself is fine, and the end elbow slips right off, severely cracked and split.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzp5pbY0AjWrTERhVFN6Mm9PbVk/view?usp=sharing

It sits directly behind the engine, beneath the throttle on one end. This is where the elbow was cracked. I don't even know what this hose is or what it does. Anyone have any ideas? And could this be related to my idle problems?

I'm going to head to Autozone or something tomorrow too and see if I can get a replacement of this little rubber elbow.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzp5pbY0AjWrdkNjNm1vZHJldW8/view?usp=sharing

And here's the other end that it connects to, perpendicular of the EGR valve (to the left of the nut I had screwed off. I took this picture while it was still attached, before taking it out to inspect.)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bzp5pbY0AjWra1d5bmNsTU1jQlk/view?usp=sharing

By the way, this hose reaks of gasoline. Thinking it's something to do with fuel delivery, but remember, I'm clueless unless I've researched it enough (which I obviously have not, seeing as I'm so beaten up about this darn idle/stall problem!)
 

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It sits directly behind the engine, beneath the throttle on one end. This is where the elbow was cracked. I don't even know what this hose is or what it does. Anyone have any ideas? And could this be related to my idle problems?
It looks like you are describing the rear PCV hose. It is a common failure that occurs right where it connects to the intake. The hose runs from the intake below the throttle body over to a metal tube that goes under the ignition coil. When this hose splits open it can cause severe idle issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for describing! My symptoms seem on par with this bugger-- and I did some more searching regarding this little rubber/plastic elbow that feeds into a 3/8" hose, as I had some doubts I'd find a replacement.

I found this:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...acked-90-rubber-elbow-cheap-and-easy-fix.html

In short, this fella' replaced the same elbow for an Expedition by using a 90° sparkplug wire boot. Others in that thread said they had success with it too. Figured it was worth mentions, as this is what i might resort to tonight after a trip to Autozone. :)
 

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yeah I replaced that hose already but it still not ok - will try to change egr regulator solenoid to see if that is the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Let me know how you make out with that.. It's possible we might have the same problem with the same baffling part. I'd hate to take it to a shop and be overcharged for a simple rubber acting up.

At this point:
-Both o2 sensors new
-New fuel filter
-New air filter
-New MAF sensor
-New DPFE sensor
-New EGR Valve

Tonight will be a new PCV valve and hose, And hopefully I can find a replacement-elbow for this cracked one I pictured earlier.

I remember reading somewhere in the forums that 120k+ miles on these 2002 Zetec's is usually about that time for all things Rubber to start throwing a wrench in an owner's day. [mecry]
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That cracked/split elbow (pictured earlier) for the rear PCV was replaced with Dorman PCV Elbow, part # 46022. Mind you, I went to Advanced Auto and it cost me $12 for the stupid little piece of rubber -- might fair better looking online instead of in-store.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It looks like you are describing the rear PCV hose. It is a common failure that occurs right where it connects to the intake. The hose runs from the intake below the throttle body over to a metal tube that goes under the ignition coil. When this hose splits open it can cause severe idle issues.
I'm confused, is this the same hose that everyone prescribes replacing ocassionally?

As in the hose here:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190218

And the valve here:
http://www.focushacks.com/mod/PCV_Valve_replacement_(Zetec_engine,_maybe_others)

Because I don't believe I have a valve on either end of where the hose connected. Just the rubber elbow. Lol. Was it possible to run this hose without a valve..? Apparently I got by for 10 months if that were the case.. I have the pictures above of where I pulled it from.
 

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I'm confused, is this the same hose that everyone prescribes replacing ocassionally?

As in the hose here:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190218

And the valve here:
http://www.focushacks.com/mod/PCV_Valve_replacement_(Zetec_engine,_maybe_others)
The hose and PCV valve in those links is a very common failure item. I'm not sure you are showing the PCV hose in your photos. The rear PCV hose on the Zetec is 1/2" I.D. on the end that connects under the ignition coil and 5/8" on the end where it takes the 90 degree turn into the intake below the throttle body. The 90 degree turn is the failure point.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The hose and PCV valve in those links is a very common failure item. I'm not sure you are showing the PCV hose in your photos. The rear PCV hose on the Zetec is 1/2" I.D. on the end that connects under the ignition coil and 5/8" on the end where it takes the 90 degree turn into the intake below the throttle body. The 90 degree turn is the failure point.
That ended up being my problem. $11.99 at my local Advanced Auto for that rubber 90 degree replacement.

As it turns out, I used the exact same elbow as whoever replaced it before me-- I don't believe it to be an OEM replication. It hardly stayed in place just by placing it back on the intake (underneath the throttle body). What I ended up doing was using two hose clamps. One was to keep the plastic tube connecting the hose to the elbow nice and snug in place, and the other on the 90 degree rubber piece on place to the manifold.

Booyah, no more idle problems. I'm going to try and figure out the exact OEM replacement for that piece and order 2 or 3 to have on hand.. wouldn't hurt to keep one in my car in case that bugger ever goes while out and about. It's quick and easy to replace. Just a pain to get it snug on the back of the intake.

On the plus side, I've noticed a huge increase in MPG given all the new parts I unnecessarily threw in. [rofl] I'll follow up with a good average of MPG.. but it's a huge increase from what I could tell now.
 
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