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Intake manifold runner control stuck open.. What the hell is that!? Ive cleared this code multiple times, but it just keeps coming back.
 

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^^^^ this has nothing to do with a choke. This has to do with your variable length intake manifold. There can be multiple issues with it. The most common is the lever on the side of the manifold has a peg that breaks off. On the drivers side of the intake look on the sode of the manifold bellow the throttle body there is a cable that goes to the lever check and see if they are still connected. If they are, have a friend have a friend start the car while you look at it, when you start the car the cable should pull on the lever and release above like 5k rpm's. if it is not doing this there is an issue with the cable, module, wiring to the module, power supply, ground, etc. if the lever is broke central florida motorsports sells a billlet aluminum replacement.
 

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I realise it has nothing to do with the choke, and your above description is correct. He was asking what it is, and that to me is about the simplest way to describe it. A defective IMRC module or as you stated more commonly a broken lever, leads to alot of the same symptoms as a choke being stuck on an old carbureted engine. And Ford does refer to them as a choke pull off. I am not a tech by any means. But I've been in parts for 17 years now and that was my simplest explanation
 

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Ford refers to it as a intake manifold runner controller. I just bought one. The manifold does not have the same symptoms as a carb choke if it's broke. The only thing you will notice if it's stuck in the long position is a slight loss of power in the upper band. Nothing more. It's there to open up the breathing of the engine above 5k rpms.
 

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I realise it has nothing to do with the choke, and your above description is correct. He was asking what it is, and that to me is about the simplest way to describe it. A defective IMRC module or as you stated more commonly a broken lever, leads to alot of the same symptoms as a choke being stuck on an old carbureted engine. And Ford does refer to them as a choke pull off. I am not a tech by any means. But I've been in parts for 17 years now and that was my simplest explanation
Didn't mean to insult you if i did. I wasn't sure if you knew how this system worked, where it actually has manifold runners that physically move to create longer runners. It's not like the ford 4.6 3v or 4v (or 2.0 spi) where they act similar to choke like you were talking about and actually block off one the intake ports.
 

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I had a similar code and replaced the little box or controler with the cable coming out of it on the side of the frame rail
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright so whats happening is the runner is sticking open. The cable is still connected, and nothing is broken. Im thinking maybe there's carbon build up on runners causing them to stick. Any thoughts?
 

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Disconnect the cable from the intake and see if it will move when you cycle the key on/off, if not then your controller has gone bad, I've never heard of the actual runners being the problem.
 

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Alright so whats happening is the runner is sticking open. The cable is still connected, and nothing is broken. Im thinking maybe there's carbon build up on runners causing them to stick. Any thoughts?
The runners are controlled by the IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control). The system by default is in the "open" mode (short runner position), so when there is something wrong it just stays in the open mode. When it functions properly, the IMRCx puts tension on the cable which rotates the "DSI clip" and pulls the manifold into long runner position. When you hit ~5200RPM it releases tension and drops the manifold into short runner position, which makes the engine note deeper and allows the car to make a little more power as it pulls to redline.

The IMRC (located on the outside of the drivers side front frame rail) needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Over time, the contacts inside the box build up corrosion and it eventually stops working. There is a how-to on taking it apart and cleaning the contacts around here somewhere, I would try that first if I were you. You will need a soldering iron to do it.

If you decide you want to just replace it, Mike at Hilbish or Steve at Tousley can get you a IMRC for about $200 last I checked.


The IMRC on my car is going out also. It works about 90% of the time ... when it doesn't, I just turn the car off and restart it. Sometimes is takes a few tries, but it always works. Then I'll have a few weeks of it not having any issues.



edit: found the how-to


http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222180
 
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