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w/ my magic bag
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I finally got the car up on jack stands and took the wheels off. There's definitely binding going on with both sides within the lowest two springs. I redid the tq on the 3 strut mount bolts for each side and checked the tq on the sway bar link bolts and lower spindle bolts (?) That's tq is supposed to be set at 60ft lbs and everything was still good and holding.



Yea, looking at the 1st pix, you can see where the top spring is resting on the one above it.
 

w/ my magic bag
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Like to see what it looks like when the wheels are on the ground, but then thinking about it my rear springs are the same way w/ 4 or 5 like that.
 

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That's what I was getting at next lol
I took the recommendation of two different forum members who are running sportlines with the front st set up. Well, one had since switched out because, "it didn't take long for them to start riding like garbage". I'm beginning to think that he just had the wrong parts like me.
Might look into just re-using your stock mounts if they'll fit on the ST struts. That is the solution for the 08-11 because the strut design isn't different than 06-07, only the mount.
(by that I mean, in order to use 06-07 springs, I must use the 06-07 strut mount, even if the struts are for an 08-11)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Might look into just re-using your stock mounts if they'll fit on the ST struts. That is the solution for the 08-11 because the strut design isn't different than 06-07, only the mount.
(by that I mean, in order to use 06-07 springs, I must use the 06-07 strut mount, even if the struts are for an 08-11)
Its like I can't post before you steal the words lol.
They're off 90 degrees from the alignment notches because when I tried to line them up the spring wouldn't sit flush but when I rotated 90 degrees it sat flush with the plastic.

So can I stick with the st strut and run the stock cap, bearinf, and mount? Do I have to switch to titanium handling package front struts and get all new top pieces? Or run the st struts and replace with new oem stock pieces (wondering of the bearings and top mount would work, doubt it).
 

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Its like I can't post before you steal the words lol.
They're off 90 degrees from the alignment notches because when I tried to line them up the spring wouldn't sit flush but when I rotated 90 degrees it sat flush with the plastic.

So can I stick with the st strut and run the stock cap, bearinf, and mount? Do I have to switch to titanium handling package front struts and get all new top pieces? Or run the st struts and replace with new oem stock pieces (wondering of the bearings and top mount would work, doubt it).
That is a question for a mk3 owner. [???:)]
 

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Discussion Starter #27
That is a question for a mk3 owner. [???:)]
Well, I made a post over there with a link so hopefully I can get some part gurus to help out. I wanna tackle this Saturday but I need all the parts there before getting started and realizing that my only option is aftermarket struts , stock struts, or st struts with a multi combination of the 3 top components.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, I'll be contacting eibach again on monday. If what the tech claims is true and "the top coil should be aligned with the bearing mount tab" than there is a design flaw with the eibach springs.


Sure, I'll align the end of the coil with the tab to get Hella flush lol not

Both stock and eibach coil.springs are placed firmly in the lower strut perch for all of these pictures.
 

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I redid the tq on the 3 strut mount bolts for each side .
I meant the center bolt holding the strut shaft to the top mounting - however, in later pictures it "appears" that it should be torqued sufficiently. That being insufficiently tightened has caused rattling for me before.

And, it does look like you're getting coil bind there - that seems problematic...

As to the spring not mating to the top of the mount correctly, it looks like it's ok to me.

A real mystery here.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yea, the st strut bolt nut has the same amount of threads showing out the top as the oem one did. I spoke with eibach several times and he seams clueless as well. Not impressed. I might take a loss, sell them next year, and go coil overs instead.
 

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Not so much the number of threads, but tightness, if you haven't double checked it just make sure it's good and snug.

Since you clunk on angled bumps, it's a part that is flexing in a plane it wouldn't normally move in.

Everything in the pics looks like it fits, that's the crazy thing.

A spring is a spring is a spring, unless that top spring mount is soft or a little loose compared to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Well, I'll be contacting eibach again on monday. If what the tech claims is true and "the top coil should be aligned with the bearing mount tab" than there is a design flaw with the eibach springs.


Sure, I'll align the end of the coil with the tab to get Hella flush lol not

Both stock and eibach coil.springs are placed firmly in the lower strut perch for all of these pictures.
Sorry, to bring this up again but I was going back through this thread looking for ideas when I stumbled on one of felix' original questions..."did I use the original spring insulators". Since I purchased all.new top components and struts I disregarded it. However, zooming in on the last pick you can see that I probably should have swapped over the bottom rubber insulator from the original oem spring. As it sits now I am riding on the bare st strut at the bottom perch without a rubber spring insulator. I'm guessing this is my problem? I surely hope so. This will be round 3.
 

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Not to be a killjoy, but I have no spring insulator on the bottom perches, no noise...

You might hold tight pending your chat with tech.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I spoke with Dave (tech) and he seams to think that my lower mount piece that holds the top coil in place is mismatched but both top mount/bearing components are identicle. I'll get a picture up of the opposite one that ford changed in oct. 13' but he's saying their picture was taken in 12'
 

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Discussion Starter #35
 

3rd Time's the Charm
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Any lowered suspension mods your going to get squeeks.
NOOOOPE.

Been driving on my Sportlines for a year and a half now with NO audible difference from stock. It's as smooth and quiet as it was from the factory, just more low.






Did you loosen the control arm bolts front/rear to drop the shock assemblies?

I'm betting there's binding as you are to set the car at ride height before final torquing of those control arm swing bolts.

[edit]
Nevermind, those assemblies definitely show where the issue lies.

I reassembled with all factory isolators, and the springs aligned without any issue, seated perfectly.

Question about the photo above. Are those left/right assemblies or duplicates of one side? Don't forget that the upper section with be 180* out from how it is being compared here as the brake line mounts will need to be rotated for the opposite side per opposite pinch-bolt clearance hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
NOOOOPE.

Been driving on my Sportlines for a year and a half now with NO audible difference from stock. It's as smooth and quiet as it was from the factory, just more low.






Did you loosen the control arm bolts front/rear to drop the shock assemblies?

I'm betting there's binding as you are to set the car at ride height before final torquing of those control arm swing bolts.

[edit]
Nevermind, those assemblies definitely show where the issue lies.

I reassembled with all factory isolators, and the springs aligned without any issue, seated perfectly.

Question about the photo above. Are those left/right assemblies or duplicates of one side? Don't forget that the upper section with be 180* out from how it is being compared here as the brake line mounts will need to be rotated for the opposite side per opposite pinch-bolt clearance hole.
The ford tech thay I had look at the car did mention getting it up on ramps and cracking the control arm bolts and retorqing. No, I don't recall loosening those bolts to remove the struts in the front. Just the perch bolt (15mm), used the same bolt to separate the backside, and then replaced with a new bolt from Ford. The write up on the forum actually had no mention of loosening the control arm bolt in the front that I recall.

You think the lack of rubber insulators in the front is contributing to the problem then along with the lower control arm bolt? I reinstalled the rear spring insulators.
Also, the above pictures were of the same 2 struts (st/se)

I guess I'm confused how I should have set the car at ride height before torqing. I torqued everything and then lowered the car down. Would you use a car jack under the a-arm for each corner to compress each strut/shock? If lowering with the wheel on is there even access to those bolts to set tq?
 

3rd Time's the Charm
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The ford tech thay I had look at the car did mention getting it up on ramps and cracking the control arm bolts and retorqing. No, I don't recall loosening those bolts to remove the struts in the front. Just the perch bolt (15mm), used the same bolt to separate the backside, and then replaced with a new bolt from Ford. The write up on the forum actually had no mention of loosening the control arm bolt in the front that I recall.

You think the lack of rubber insulators in the front is contributing to the problem then along with the lower control arm bolt? I reinstalled the rear spring insulators.
Also, the above pictures were of the same 2 struts (st/se)

I guess I'm confused how I should have set the car at ride height before torqing. I torqued everything and then lowered the car down. Would you use a car jack under the a-arm for each corner to compress each strut/shock? If lowering with the wheel on is there even access to those bolts to set tq?
Exactly. Put the frame on jackstands, crack the control arm bolts loose, then use the jack under the balljoint area of the control arm to apply pressure until you can tell the jackstand isn't supporting the car as much, it doesn't have to be ALL the weight, just some. Then torque to spec. If you did not touch these during installation, don't waste your time, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
This was the install guide I used. It mentioned removing the perch bolts from the knuckle but didn't go into any detail about loosening the lower control arm bolts or pre-loading the suspension prior to setting torque.http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/mk3-focus/557122-eibach-sportline-springs-write-up-how.html

So at this point what would be your recommendation since you're saying not to bother with the lower control arm bolts if they were untouched during instalation. I'm gonna give it some more break in time but was thinking about switching the springs over to the se struts with the lower rubber insulators. Oddly, the front is about 1.5 fingers on the tire to fender clearance and the rear is about 2 fingers. Most people have the opposite complaint that the front sits slightly higher.
 

w/ my magic bag
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I wouldn't deal w/ the A-arm mount bolts as you didn't touch them. Has the squeaks subsided some? it'd be great to get the car up on a alignment rack or a flat rack & push & pull up & down to see or hear where 'bouts your squeak is coming from. I've done that a few times= pulling down on the front or rear to figure out where the squeak is coming from.
 
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