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Discussion Starter #1
Feeling a little defeated with this modification right about now. I recently lowered my car on eibach sportlines, st front struts, and titanium handling package rear shocks. I've noticed recently that every time I pull out or pull in on an angled parking spot with a curb I get a loud creak/clunk coming from the front end. Even if I back out and the rear wheel drops first I can hear the front end make a noise. I seem to get a quiter noise on flat surface, when I'm making a tight turn as well. [facepalm] I'm not sure if they're related or not.
I need to go in and triple check the tq on all the bolts again but they were all double checked prior to finalizing the project. Does this sound like a loose sway bar issue? My biggest fear would be the top strut nut being loose which would mean the entire assemblies would have to come out and a realignment would have to be done.
 

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Did you use the spring insulators from the oem springs, if it had them? If you installed the strut mounts correctly, then I'd think the springs are creaking. IK kind of annoying. I asume you have the spring in the strut pocket. btw you should be able to get to the strut mount bolt, as its in the middle. If you zipped it on w/ a impact, I wouldn't think its loose as its under the spring pressure & you should have about 8-12 threads showing. Of course just snug the 3 strut mount bolts= 10 or so lbs. You don't want to over tighten those as you'd break of a mount stud.
 

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Any lowered suspension mods your going to get squeeks.
ID have any. The only squeaks I've had is the front bar bushings yrs ago & regreased them when I had the cradle off for a torsen install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you use the spring insulators from the oem springs, if it had them? If you installed the strut mounts correctly, then I'd think the springs are creaking. IK kind of annoying. I asume you have the spring in the strut pocket. btw you should be able to get to the strut mount bolt, as its in the middle. If you zipped it on w/ a impact, I wouldn't think its loose as its under the spring pressure & you should have about 8-12 threads showing. Of course just snug the 3 strut mount bolts= 10 or so lbs. You don't want to over tighten those as you'd break of a mount stud.
Yea, I used the spring insulator from the oem springs on the rears. I believe the front struts just have the recesses built into the housing for the lower spring to sit into. I used st bearings and top mounts up front. I was not able to use an impact on the top nut and had to use a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive. I believe there was about 5-8 threads showing. Probably not nearly as tight as an impact would do but I know that it gave enough room for everything to fit underneath of the st plastic components up top.
 

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If you think you have the strut bolt tight w/ no slack then great. Did the new springs come w/ spring insulation? Like around the top? & did the oem springs have them?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Like when I'm making a sharp turn it pops somewhat. Spring insulation? Are you referring to the rubberized covering around the coil springs, about the last coil/coil and a half? If so than yes, the eibach springs have that insulation built in at the end. At the top the last coil sits in the "st strut mount" and above that the "st bearing" was pushed inside of that.

This is the only picture I have at the moment.


Looking at it again the insulation I was referring to is actually at the bottom. The lettering "eibach is facing up though. I'm not sure if this is what you were referring to or not towards the bottom (gray rubberized covering).
Again, the spring at the top rest on the lower portion of the plastic st strut mount. Springs are 4.13435

I do think the 3 strut mount bolts on both sides were over torqued. Like 35-40 instead of 10.
 

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Lucky you didn't break a stud mount stud, as I broke one yrs ago. I take it the bottom of the spring is in the strut plate seat. Looks good, from what I can see. The strut mount really only goes together one way & it looks like it is. Just for the heck of it, The other side= Is the pigtail at the top facing outwards also?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lucky you didn't break a stud mount stud, as I broke one yrs ago. I take it the bottom of the spring is in the strut plate seat. Looks good, from what I can see. The strut mount really only goes together one way & it looks like it is. Just for the heck of it, The other side= Is the pigtail at the top facing outwards also?
Yea, im positive both springs were perfectly seated in the strut plate seat. Im sorry but im not sure what a "pigtail" is? Are you refering to the last coil on top pointing outward? Can I just loosen the 3 strut mount bolts and retighten to 10 ft/lbs without having to replace all the bolts?
 

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Yea, im positive both springs were perfectly seated in the strut plate seat. Im sorry but im not sure what a "pigtail" is? Are you refering to the last coil on top pointing outward? Can I just loosen the 3 strut mount bolts and retighten to 10 ft/lbs without having to replace all the bolts?
1st question yea, 2nd yea. I'd check the torque specs. Since you have then tighten down, I'd just leave them. This creaking is just going up & down curbs & kinda steep driveways? If so, I wouldn't sweat it. Drive it for a week or so, the springs have to take a set for a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
1st question yea, 2nd yea. I'd check the torque specs. Since you have then tighten down, I'd just leave them. This creaking is just going up & down curbs & kinda steep driveways? If so, I wouldn't sweat it. Drive it for a week or so, the springs have to take a set for a little bit.
Correct, the creaking/clunking is going up and down curbs and worse at angles. The light popping happens when making sharp turns with large rotations of the wheel. What's weird is once it pops, if I try to return the wheel and make that rotation to recreate the sound it usually won't do it. Other than that the ride is good with no noises over everyday bumps at speed and no vibrations.of any sorts. I'm still debating on cutting out the strut dust boot to eliminate that as any noise inducing issue but I know that's not it.
 

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I wouldn't remove the boot,,,,,,,,as you know has nothing to do w/ your creaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I guess the problems are just isolated with off camber curbs that have a high compression rate on the spring/struts. You mentioned that some of the noise might be attributed to the st strut mounts?
 

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I guess the problems are just isolated with off camber curbs that have a high compression rate on the spring/struts. You mentioned that some of the noise might be attributed to the st strut mounts?
Either that & or the way the springs are sitting. I'd just drive it.
 

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Late to the party here, and I rarely disagree with FTC, but in this case I'd re-tighten those strut nuts.

I've had lowering springs on about everything I've owned, never had it knock on a bump unless that nut was loose (# of threads showing notwithstanding). My 320i rear springs rattle in the perches, and the fronts are loose enough to twist easily, at full droop, and that car didn't make noises over bumps (though it last ran three years ago, and at that only long enough to diagnose a warped head - so age and memory might not serve...).

The kicker for me is you mentioned it does it on "off-camber" bumps, and that says that given a little lateral movement on the strut/suspension, it's bucking and popping in there.

It's been about three years since I did the springs on the Focus, and I don't remember how hard it was to get to the top mounts and such, but there's usually an allen key or something at the top for a wrench to grab while one tightens the strut nut, so it can be done on the car. It'll be slow and painful, and I thank the good Lord every time I do struts that I (long ago) acquired a compressor and impact gun (I don't think I've done them any other way since), but I'd definitely do that - unless you did and I missed it going through the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I finally got the car up on jack stands and took the wheels off. There's definitely binding going on with both sides within the lowest two springs. I redid the tq on the 3 strut mount bolts for each side and checked the tq on the sway bar link bolts and lower spindle bolts (?) That's tq is supposed to be set at 60ft lbs and everything was still good and holding.



 

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Quick question: If you're using ST struts with ST strut mounts, are you using ST Springs?

There are two different part numbers for sportline springs for the mk3, one for base and the other for ST.

I don't know the specifics, but if the springs are designed for a different strut, could that be your issue?

Because what you are describing is very similar to some problems a mk2 owner had when he installed 06-07 springs on 08-11 struts.
Also, popping when turning the wheel back and forth is indicative of a problem with strut bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That's what I was getting at next lol
I took the recommendation of two different forum members who are running sportlines with the front st set up. Well, one had since switched out because, "it didn't take long for them to start riding like garbage". I'm beginning to think that he just had the wrong parts like me.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I contacted eibach tech support today and spoke with Dave. He said it sounded like the top caps that hold the bearings in were lines up correctly with the top mount, which I believe is the case.


 
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