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Discussion Starter #1
HI,

The facts:

01 focus wagon
eastern canada
126,000km

Somewhat mechanically inclined individual.

Reasonably stocked tool chest (included spring pliers, sufficient quantities of brake cleaner, electric impact gun etc.

The issue:

I was having a grinding noise (sounded more like metal on metal as opposed to squealing) from the rear brake area. Hand brake would not engage properly, so I assume rear shoes needed replacement.

Using online guide here [thumb] I set to take care of the problem.

Problem #1. 4 spindle nuts would not come off. Therefore I used the removal of the 30mm hub nut to facilitate removal of the drum. problem #1 solved. led straight away to problem #2.

Problem #2. Drums would not come off - rust and wear on drum likely created a bit of a lip on the drums. After much sweat, atempts and wiggles, finally got it off, Problem #2 solved, however, This led to problem #3.

Problem #3. wheel bearing came flying out in pieces - all the rollers came apart. I am not sure if these bearings are built unit and I had issues and the bearing was the source of my noise... I will be acquiring new bearings.

disassembled brakes.


The little wheel about which the cam rotates on the strut does not move... to my untrained eye, it appears as though it should rotate to allow the cam to move to the best position to accomodate for wear on the shoes....

here is a pic of the strut and cam


Finally the parking brake return spring doesn't seem to catch - to the hook in the short end get bent in removal, here is a pic...




so... do I need to get anew hardware kit and is the strut and cam adjuster included in a hardware kit?

thanks in advance.
 

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LOL i just did this!

Well the little circle thing on the ebrake adjuster doesnt move, the other part does. Its self adjusting so just free it up, se it to the most open position and put it back in. (this was the casue of my ebrake not engagin at all on 1 side)

I never took off the small spring you have there but i do remember it looking wonky (the reason i never took it off). I never replaced the hardware because the spring swe all still good and super stiff so no need to replace them. And honestly you should have taken out those 4 bolt in the back. I live in nova scotia so you dont need to tell me about rust. You just need to get some good leverage and pull till they come off. Makes life sooooooo much easier then taking out the bearing....
 

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^^ correct, the 'circle" does not move.. that circle is actually there to stop the cam from retracting the adjustment to a smaller setting.

You will need to buy a hardware kit for that spring, its a good idea anyway, even if the 'feel stiff'. They are really designed for a service life of one set of shoes, and always have been a commonly neglected item in drum brake systems.

Make sure to check the drum inner diameter with a micrometer, measure at the largest parallel point within the friction area. Usually a large lip indicates a drum nearing the end of its useful life. Re-using over sized drums (worn out) can cause pre-mature lockup problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys.

I have picked up a new hardware kit. No big deal only 16 bones at crappy tire - only place to buy parts at 9pm on a saturday night.... yeah I have no life.

Looks like there maybe new drums in my future as well..

I do not have a service manual for this car (I am actually hoping to get rid of it soon), what is the outermost tolerance dimension for the drums.

Hey allanzx3, a buddy of mine sold a 2000 black zx3 in dartmouth earlier this spring... is it the one you have by chance - he is in cole hr and his daily driver is a 03 VW Jetta 1.8T... I too know about rust being over here on the rock....

when I get to the other side I will do my best to remove the hub and drum as a unit, car will have to go higher...
 

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^
Yup...that's going to be my next mod. I'd rather take the money I'd spend on new drums, springs and shoes and put to a disc brake kit.
 

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I got this done for only $350 with brand new rotors. Very easy to do. Took me only 3-4hrs total
 

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^
I doubt it, seeing as how Ford obviously has had no faith in them since they designed the Focus. Apparently, they don't expect the rear bearings to have a service life any longer than the drums themselves, otherwise the bearings wouldn't be built into the drums.
 

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Spindles and dust shield from v6focus and calipers from another guy from here. I forget his name but the calipers came with pads too.

SkaAddict said:
^
Where'd you get the SVT spindles and calipers?
 

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fordblue72 said:
Was there a recall on the rear wheel bearings?
yes there was. ford sent me a letter about it a few years back. in certain areas due to states using road salt during the winter. the seal would go bad allowing salt, water, andother crap into the bearing.
my 00 ended up getting a 100000 mile warranty on the bearing with unlimited time.
theres also a tsb out on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
is there a Ford website where you can plug your vin in to check on recalls that apply to your vehicle?
 

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Scott_SVT said:
^^ correct, the 'circle" does not move.. that circle is actually there to stop the cam from retracting the adjustment to a smaller setting.

You will need to buy a hardware kit for that spring, its a good idea anyway, even if the 'feel stiff'. They are really designed for a service life of one set of shoes, and always have been a commonly neglected item in drum brake systems.

Make sure to check the drum inner diameter with a micrometer, measure at the largest parallel point within the friction area. Usually a large lip indicates a drum nearing the end of its useful life. Re-using over sized drums (worn out) can cause pre-mature lockup problems.
Before I attempt to pull my drums I just need to know if these back brakes are adjustable like other drum brakes i'm familiar with.

Thanks, Joe
 

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I understand that the brakes are adjustable to take up for wear by using the handbrake, but that there is no "adjuster slit" in the backing plate to slacken the adjustment to bring the shoes back in. This can cause a problem, because the drum usually ends up with a ridge around the outside (of the inside) resulting from surface wear and rust. Had a friend who had to use a homemade drum puller to remove it. Beating on it with a hammer may loosen the bearing, but still the ridge still prevented it from easily coming off.
 

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paddler said:
Thanks guys.

I have picked up a new hardware kit. No big deal only 16 bones at crappy tire - only place to buy parts at 9pm on a saturday night.... yeah I have no life.

Looks like there maybe new drums in my future as well..

I do not have a service manual for this car (I am actually hoping to get rid of it soon), what is the outermost tolerance dimension for the drums.

Hey allanzx3, a buddy of mine sold a 2000 black zx3 in dartmouth earlier this spring... is it the one you have by chance - he is in cole hr and his daily driver is a 03 VW Jetta 1.8T... I too know about rust being over here on the rock....

when I get to the other side I will do my best to remove the hub and drum as a unit, car will have to go higher...
LOL ya i bet thats my car! forget his name now though...dave maybe? i dunno but he is rockin the vdub now.

Oh and if by rock you mean nfld then thats funny cause thats where im from.
 

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insp09 said:
Before I attempt to pull my drums I just need to know if these back brakes are adjustable like other drum brakes i'm familiar with.

Thanks, Joe
Does that mean there is no wheel adjuster at the bottom of the shoes?
 

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The only adjuster is on the upper part of the drums, and as far as i can see there is no access port.
 
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