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Discussion Starter #1
First off, I made a video so you can hear the noise:

https://youtu.be/9rNMJECKgYs

But for those who might not be able to see the video, you know that noise power steering pumps are known to make, especially Fords? My car is making that noise, when I push in the clutch. I think it's also making that noise when I'm driving, but I can't be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to mention earlier, I did check the brake fluid level and it's closer to max than min.
 

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Very well could be a throw bearing...But for the most part throw bearings make a rattling noise when not engaged, vs when its engaged w/ pressure on it. How many miles on the clutch? I take it...it still pulls w/ no slippage?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm at least the 3rd owner, but I suspect it's the original clutch. 260k miles and counting. There's no slip in the clutch-- I can chirp the tires going into 2nd gear.
 

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I'm at least the 3rd owner, but I suspect it's the original clutch. 260k miles and counting. There's no slip in the clutch-- I can chirp the tires going into 2nd gear.
Wow, thats quite a chunk of miles on the oem clutch.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
From the few records I can see, the original owner drove something like 30k miles a year. If he spent a lot of time on the highway, the clutch could last about forever.

I'm just trying to figure out now what it is. Best case scenario, as I see it, is that it's a clutch master cylinder issue. But the fact that the noise only happens when the clutch is pushed in, makes me lean toward a throwout bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's just confusing to me because it really does sound like a power steering pump, like it's a hydraulic issue.
 

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From the few records I can see, the original owner drove something like 30k miles a year. If he spent a lot of time on the highway, the clutch could last about forever.

I'm just trying to figure out now what it is. Best case scenario, as I see it, is that it's a clutch master cylinder issue. But the fact that the noise only happens when the clutch is pushed in, makes me lean toward a throwout bearing.
It could be a throw out bearing, but you engage it & that puts pressure on it which makes a throw bearing rattling around go away......Really the only time I've heard something similar is w/ a GT500 dual disc clutch not engaged at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I just took a listen with the hood up, and it doesn't sound like a hydraulic issue now.

I'm starting resign myself to this being a throwout bearing. That may be the death of this car.
 

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I'd just keep rolling it......If it needs a clutch, then swap it out. How much is a replacement car?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's not just the clutch. I've had the car 3 years. I've already put 130% of what I paid for the car, in parts & maintenance. I do all my own work, except what needs specialized equipment, and value my time at 0.

It needs tires too. The cost of a clutch kit+engine hoist+tires would be about 50% of its current value.

It's probably time to move on. I hope to have another ZXW, but I'm open to options at this point.
 

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The cost of a clutch kit+engine hoist+tires would be about 50% of its current value.
If it has no other big problems, I'd fix it (borrow a hoist) and run it into the ground. Tires are probably cheap for that car. The clutch kit + tires are less than one car payment for most people I know.
 

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If you think its time to move on as you know better......I've shipped cars down the road needing work, such as one needed a trans rebuild & I've thrown rebuilt motors into 2 others, drove them for awhile & sold them....These are fairly easy to work on, but I prefer working on v/8 rwd cars thou. If your looking for another one of course make sure its a Zetec/D-tech car.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If it has no other big problems, I'd fix it (borrow a hoist) and run it into the ground. Tires are probably cheap for that car. The clutch kit + tires are less than one car payment for most people I know.
I'll be honest, there's no *wrong* decision here. On one hand, this car is getting very expensive to keep on the road. On the other hand, I'm realistically looking at trading one beater for another.

Tires are not that cheap. My current tires, Cooper CS5 Grand Touring, are 80k tires which are gone in about 35k. I honestly don't know if it's because they're crap tires (I'm not the only one who has complained about those tires not lasting), or if there's something potentially wrong with my car.

But that's just to say, 40k mile tires are probably a waste of money. So figure $300 for tires. Clutch kit is $200, and I've located a hoist locally for $100.

That's $600. KBB says the car's worth $1500, and that's probably a bit high. Give it decent tires, a quiet throwout bearing, and I think it's probably worth $1200.

Also keep in mind, I paid $1750 for this car 40 months ago, and since then, I've put $2300 in parts into it. I think I'm ready to stop putting parts in it. You know what else I've also spent $2300 on? Gas. That's right, half my per-mile cost is repairs.

Now, if a bunch of people come along and tell me that 50% of their per-mile or per-month vehicular operational cost is in parts, I'll reconsider. But my gut is saying this is just going too far.

Besides, why should I put $600 in parts into a car when I could buy a $500 car instead? I found a 1997 Aspire about an hour's drive from me, and I'm thinking about going to look at it tomorrow.
 

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I'd pass on that Aspire & look around for another zetec/dtech powered foci...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am looking, but what I want is another manual transmission dtech wagon, so I'm asking for a bit of a unicorn.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well... I looked at that Aspire. It was going to take $500 in struts, tires, and BMV fees just to put it on the road. That doesn't include purchase price or insurance. Totally not worth it.

At this point, I think I'm going to put tires on the Focus, and wait for that clutch noise to get worse.
 
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