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Cars&Corgis
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4,448 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Took my car to Meineke today and got the brakes inspected, and was told I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did quite a bit of research and this seemed to be the most "wallet-friendly" deal I could find. Meineke wanted almost $400 dollars just to do the front end!! Any thoughts from people who have used this set before? or recommendations in general that wont break the bank? It would be much appreciated!

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/d...ake_Disc_and_Pad_KitQQ20052007QQP15K1377.html

Regards,
matmatician
 

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Jetsetter
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6,657 Posts
yes go for a blank set of rotors. I have a set of the EBC sport rotors which are slotted and dimpled, they make all kinds of noise it gets quite annoying at times.
 

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Cars&Corgis
Joined
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4,448 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
wow, lots of good feedback already! Ok, I'll look at just regular rotors then, any suggestions as to the brand? For either rotor or pads? I've heard a lot of good things about EBC...
 

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w/ my magic bag
Joined
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29,468 Posts
Up grade to SVT brake's & be done w/ it!

Hey all,

Took my car to Meineke today and got the brakes inspected, and was told I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did quite a bit of research and this seemed to be the most "wallet-friendly" deal I could find. Meineke wanted almost $400 dollars just to do the front end!! Any thoughts from people who have used this set before? or recommendations in general that wont break the bank? It would be much appreciated!

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/d...ake_Disc_and_Pad_KitQQ20052007QQP15K1377.html

Regards,
matmatician
Why don't you upgrade to 300mm SVT brake's= FRPP's has a kit that include's New 300mm rotor's/loaded caliper's for about $400.00. & they bolt right up too. Hit Steve at Toulsey Ford up, he'll set you straight! Or you can step up to Brembo or Baer brake's= Hit up Andy's autosport.=330mm rotor's & bigger caliper's that bolt on!
 

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Registered
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8,023 Posts
Centric, Brembo, or even NAPA Premium solid rotors (aka blanks) would be good choices. all of these have minimal run-out direct from the factory. Less run-out means a better/quality product (better machining) that will bed more evenly and is less likely to pulsate in the future. Tirerack has a nice selection of pads and carries Centric rotors as well. Please read the brake threads in the "new members read first" stickies for why solid rotors are preferred over drilled or slotted ones especially for daily drivers.
 

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Cars&Corgis
Joined
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4,448 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I read the new members first thread, but just wanted some feedback from people who have had experience with this brand. I have drilled brembo rotors with brembo pads on my Ducati, so I'm familiar with the drawbacks :)
 

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Strichmädchen & Koks
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3,112 Posts
Definitely pass on anything but blank rotors. Not worth it at all, in fact I noticed less stopping power in most circumstances when I used them back when I was young and dumb. Not designed for street use at all.

And definitely buy quality. Stopped buying crap Chinese rotors for anything but cars I knew I wouldn't keep long. Would always warp real quick, and were too thin. Not worth the savings at all.
 

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Cars&Corgis
Joined
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4,448 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ok, so after lots of review on brake pads and rotors, I ended up going with the Akebono ProAct Ceramics (http://bit.ly/n34ayi) and a set of Centric Premium rotors (http://bit.ly/pn7g37) all from tire rack!

I still have to get pads for my rear end because they didn't have Akebonos for the rear on TR and I read a lot of reviews that said the HAWKs tend to have squeaking issues. I think I may just go to O'reily and get some warner ThermoQuiets or NAPA and get some of their brakes, which I've heard are supposed to be pretty good.
 

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Registered
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2 Posts
I’m little bit shocked when heard that the brake pad and rotor set costs $400. I'm usually buying parts from the theautopartsshop.com. I think it cost you low compare to others. And second thing that if you want to save the money then you have to replace car parts with your own. The removal and installation procedure for this with some precautions is given below:

This is the procedure regarding how to remove and install brake pad and brake rotor:

Tools need: Ratchet set, Socket wrenches, Torque wrench, Hammer, Bleed wrench, Hydraulic jack, Jack stand, Allan Wrenches.

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

Step one: Park your vehicle on a ground level. Apply hand brake upward and set gear knob in to the first gear so that vehicle doesn’t move reverse or forward while working.
Step two: Lift the vehicle from the front and rear axle with the help of hydraulic jack and then place the jack stand below the axle.
Step three: Remove the nuts and bolts with the help of wheel spanner and remove both the front and rear wheels from the vehicle.
Step four: After removing the wheel from the vehicle, you can able to see the caliper attached on the brake rotor disc.
Step five: Remove the brake fluid lining that is connected to the brake caliper by loosing its nuts and bolts with the help of wrench.
Step six: Remove the pins that hold the caliper in its position with the help of Allen wrenches.
Step seven: Tap slowly on the bottom of the caliper until caliper removes from the disc with the help of small hammer.
Step eight: Slide the caliper upper side from the brake disc rotor.
Step nine: Remove the caliper out from the disc.
Step ten: Remove the brake pads clips which holds the pads in its place.
Step eleven: Remove out the brake pads from the clips.
 

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Registered
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505 Posts
Centric blanks from dicountbrakes.com are like 26$ each...ridiculously cheap! They have the E-Coating which ensures some rust protection for non contact area. I put those on my car and the machining is outstanding.
 
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