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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I've had this issue for quite some time where the power window on the driver door won't go down. It will always go up, but going down has been more and more of a struggle, it seems. About a week ago the cable in the regulator got caught, so I replaced that hoping the problems going down was just a precursor to a regulator issue, and I'd be all done with that problem.

Nope. Replaced the regulator, plugged in the switched, press the down button. Didn't budge. Pressed the up button just to get it up a little (that's what she said) and that was fine.

So, it must be the switch, right? Not necessarily. Since Ford wants drug money for the master power window switch, I went to my trusty u-pull. It went down the first time I pressed the button after installing, but that was the only time it worked. Still seems to go up just fine, of course.

I did just realize (really, as I write this) that I still haven't put the glass in after replacing the regulator. Maybe the weight of that has some use? I doubt it, but who knows. Anyway... any ideas where to go next?
 

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Yep, I thought that was just bad contacts inside the switch. Strange. I had a similar problem, but it was only dirty contacts inside that switch.

I also replaced the drivers side regulator; my old one blew-up, made a mess of the cable n pulleys. There is some slack in the cable without a window installed, so I hope your new regulator did not tweak itself during ops while no window was installed. hmmm? Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, if it's a fairly common problem, I'm sure the odds of me picking a bad part is quite probable! How did you clean it? Since I've got 2, I don't mind trying stuff out on my junkyard part.
 

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One window + intermittently (or always?) not going down AND same thing when using a different master switch = that is not a bad switch. -or Vegas odds of .000032% to One.

Who knows... here is a recent quote about my adventure. Check the link inside.

I was able to remove and open-up the master switch assembly. Once inside it, use some sandpaper in-between the electrical contacts. Fixed mine.

Yours is a newer design, so I'm unsure if you can do the same.

A little too wordy, but here's the thread with a few pics->
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398850
 

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There absolutely should be NO slack in cable on a regulator say just out of the box. If so it should derail the cable shortly thereafter. Why there is spring at the ends to keep it tight. When reassembling (I rebuild mine for pennies) you should have fits getting the cable strung back up at the last point since it will be TIGHT.

And trying to work the regulator with no window weight in it???? You are killing me. Anyone with a lick of sense should be able to look at that assembly and instantly realize the weight is needed to make it work.
 

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There absolutely should be NO slack in cable on a regulator say just out of the box.
No sense in arguing, we must be talking apples verses oranges. Straight out of the box, my new Dorman regulator was a floppy spider, folded-over and cables flopping around like a fish outta water. Once installed, I guess the cables are not very loose, -maybe tight, -so maybe I miss-spoke. Sorry. Can't clearly remember now... I thought the weight of the window stiffened-up the cables some? No need to answer, just talking out loud now.
 

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They fold the assembly to get it in the box BUT the actual cable ends must be tight in the 'X' there, that is the only thing that keeps cable on the pulleys, trust me on this. You can't get cables much tighter without breaking the plastic parts and what usually derails them, the plastic breaks to allow loose to get in there and the next time window switch worked the whole thing wads up in a mess.

Quick test, if you can push hand firmly out on window and detect any more than the slightest delay (slack) as window goes down looseness is there and the assembly has cracked up a part to be about to come apart. Half inch? Give it up, broken, just hasn't derailed yet, and coming shortly.

I've rebuilt like 5 of these now. The cheap plastic cable end inserts and window clips break faster than spit, I use metal cable ends and that problem solved but the complexity of the window clips pretty much rules out an easy metal fix for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry to make a zombie thread, but I do have a few small things to bring up.

First of all, I did later notice in the instructions for the regulator that it said to adjust the height BEFORE attaching the glass so you can reach the screws properly. Also, this is the kind of switch where I can press halfway to lower the window, or all the way to lower it to the bottom even when I let go. Cool? Cool.

That said, I'm still having the issue. However, I did notice that if I hold the button down all the way, it usually does start to open within about 10 seconds. Normally I would think that means some kind of a derailment as amc49 talked about, but I don't hear the motor even trying to run. And it runs perfectly 100% of the time when I press the button to raise the window, so I would imagine if it can't go down easily, it would also have trouble going up! Plus, if I press the button halfway in (to lower it until I let go) it doesn't seem to ever lower, no matter how long I hold it.

So, obviously it's a switch issue, right? Not necessarily. I pulled apart the switch assembly, and took out the 2-action switch used to lower the window (including all the way). It was perfectly responsive under a multimeter.

Now I'm out of ideas. Does anybody have any other suggestions with what I said in mind? Wiring, grounding, something else?
 

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EDIT: This post was made in error because I totally forgot that the OP had previously replaced the master switch. Sorry, my bad.

------------------------------------

So, obviously it's a switch issue, right? Not necessarily. I pulled apart the switch assembly, and took out the 2-action switch used to lower the window (including all the way). It was perfectly responsive under a multimeter.
Quote below is from the thread I linked earlier in this thread.

This was a "load induced open circuit". Drivers side control signals of Voltage and Ground was good while monitoring at the passenger side connector using a DVM. However, when adding the load of the passenger side window motor -and while using the drivers side controls the Hot side would drop off.
Testing the switch with a multimeter (continuity) is exactly what I did at the beginning of troubleshooting. Then I did some voltage tests and caught the little bugger. Once the load of the motor is added (and current attempts to flow) a poor connection turns-into an OPEN circuit. A "poor connection" can sometimes pass a continuity test perfectly and fool you.

Clean the switch contacts with sandpaper. Something like 400 grit. If you fold the sandpaper in half, you can slide it between the switch contacts and you will be cleaning both sides at the same time.
 

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Check all contacts, just because they look fine means nothing. Often removing a multiple pin harness can have one or more of the pins then have loose contact to the receiver female fitting, I often rebend them to make positive contact again. Use like a dentist pick or other fine point tool to dig into the connector and rebend things closer so pin definitely squeezes into metal there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys - that actually makes the most sense out of anything I've heard so far! I'll take a look at that connector later tonight. Since I had similar issues with 2 switch sets, I think it is a little further down the line in the female connector. Think it would be worth using a small shot of electronics spray cleaner, like lectra-motive?
 

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Whoops... when I posted here yesterday (post#9) I had totally forgotten that you previously replaced the master switch... which is why I was telling you to sandpaper clean the switch contacts. Sorry about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hah, it happened a while ago, so it's understandable. Your reminder of a load induced open circuit really helped out.
 

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Ok, good day of testing and diagnostics today!

I am now pretty much convinced that this is a wiring issue of some kind. Took the door partially apart so I could get to the connector the master switch plugs into, as well as the plug for the motor. Also had help of a test light and a stray piece of wire to help jump a few connections.

Using my multimeter, I was able to see where the switch is supposed to connect when you press the button. Jumped that, and it went down a little - kind of similar to how it works when I press the button (didn't take as much to make it happen, but it was still pretty unreliable overall). Of course, then I jumped the wrong spot and blew a fuse, 30 minutes after the local auto parts stores closed. [?|]

Borrowed the fuse for the rear windows, and broke out the test light. With the master switch connected, I was able to test from the back end of the connector, and when I pressed the button to lower the window, the light consistently came on nice and bright. Then I went to check the wiring harness. When I press the up button, one of the two wires will light up the test light just fine. When I press down, neither of them seem to be getting any power to speak of.

I'll figure out a fix soon :)
 

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When you replaced the regulator, did that include a new motor? Did you re-use the old motor?

As a test; instead of running a window motor, how about running a 12Vdc light bulb. Disconnect the electrical connector at the motor; then plugin a (test rig) 12Vdc light bulb into the motor connector. Operate the window Up and Down and watch the quality and brightness of light during Up verses Down.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When you replaced the regulator, did that include a new motor? Did you re-use the old motor?

As a test; instead of running a window motor, how about running a 12Vdc light bulb. Disconnect the electrical connector at the motor; then plugin a (test rig) 12Vdc light bulb into the motor connector. Operate the window Up and Down and watch the quality and brightness of light during Up verses Down.
I just realized I was a little (ok, a lot) ambiguous. When I talked about taking the test light to the harness, I meant the harness that plugs into the motor. And yes, that motor did come with the regulator, so that's all new :)
 

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Your test light does not do what I was suggesting. The test light bulb I was suggesting draws lots more current/amps than your test light. Your Down circuit is failing when current attempts to flow.

I assume you have a "one-touch" option/feature to lower your window. Inside the door is a one-touch relay. A defective relay or defective connection at this spot can cause your problem. The Down circuit uses a path thru the one-touch relay even when you do not use the one-touch feature.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Your test light does not do what I was suggesting. The test light bulb I was suggesting draws lots more current/amps than your test light. Your Down circuit is failing when current attempts to flow.

I assume you have a "one-touch" option/feature to lower your window. Inside the door is a one-touch relay. A defective relay or defective connection at this spot can cause your problem. The Down circuit uses a path thru the one-touch relay even when you do not use the one-touch feature.
Yeah, it's funny you should mention that... I just looked at the schematics for that a little bit ago and realized there was that in between. My money is on that being the culprit. That would explain why a little earlier, I heard a clicking sound once or twice when the motor was disconnected, too! But not very consistently. Just like the window itself.

I also saw a video on youtube where there's a cracked solder joint on the relay, wouldn't surprise me if that's happening. Now I just need to find the silly thing! I'll probably go on an exploratory junkyard mission after work today, and might as well pick a new relay while I'm at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I just went to the junkyard today. First car I looked at had no door, so that one was out. Next one (next car over) not only had a door, but it was perfectly disassembled so all I had to was unscrew the relay and unclip the wiring harness. Easy. Too easy for a junkyard trip, so I explored a few cars while I was at it to make it feel like I did something. Then went to checkout to give them the ~$3, was told to have a nice day instead. For those in the Denver area, U Pull and Pay is fantastic! Both Aurora and Denver.

Brought it home, peeled back the foam, swapped relays. Tried again. Heard a click, but no motor movement. Instantly realized that the motor wasn't plugged in. Plugged it in, and it's been working perfectly so far!

Thanks for your help and patience, everyone! Especially Marde :)
 
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