Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I am having some power steering issues that I am not sure where they are coming from.

About 10k miles ago I replaced my power steering pump and line because of a small leak that was driving me crazy. I did not have any problems with it and it worked great.

Last Saturday I was driving on a track and my wheel bearing went out on me. Literally broke the hub where the splines connect. I towed it back to my house, removed the knuckle, pressed out the old bearing and put in a new one with spindle. When I backed out of my driveway, I noticed that there was no power steering. I drove it about a mile and thought maybe a tie rod was too tight or something similar so went home. The tie rod and everything seemed fine. I lifted both wheels in the air and they seemed to turn fine without requiring much force. I checked the power steering fluid level and it is just a tiny bit above the maximum line. Today I drove it 20 miles to work (without power steering) and I noticed that it does seem to work when I rev the engine quite a bit. I again checked the fluid and it does not look like it is at the same level so I don’t think it is leaking. I also looked at the pump and it is not making any weird noises and seems to be spinning just fine.

Is there any way that I could have damaged the rack and pinion when I removed the knuckle and caused the power steering not to work? It seems like it is pump related but it seems too strange that it failed when I was replacing the bearing. I know that it had power steering when I backed it into my garage because I had the car on and was able to steer with one hand while pushing.

Does anyone have any thoughts as to what the problem is? I don’t want to start dumping money into every component in the steering system without knowing what the problem is.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Moved to General Tech. Chat for more looks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Okay so today on my way home, I hit the gas and turned the wheel all the way to left lock to change lanes and the power steering came back. I am not sure why it is working now but it seems fine so i am not going to worry about it for the time being. I guess that there was air in the lines or something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Turning lock to lock and holding it against the stops for a few seconds bleeds the air out of the system. Probably had some air. Glad its working again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,163 Posts
Holding power steering against the stops is a no-no. Good way to blow out rack seals. They bleed no more air that way than the norm.

Check your belt drive. Ran into this last month, PS coming and going, the tensioner had broken, the belt was tight enough without tensioner so that the PS came and went, when I loaded it hard it quit then came back later when I got back in car. Belt slipping under max load but worked most of the time at lower load. You'd think battery light would pop up in there but never did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,163 Posts
No, more like simply kissing it fractionally for a millisecond but taking it off instantly. You never hold it on 'for a few seconds', the pump is 100% bypassing then since it is technically deadheaded trying to compress a liquid at max pressure. Wheels off the ground does not matter there; you have rack body vs. piston there. As well, loading the pump by physical end contact opens the torsion valve to full flow and pressure, you're asking for broken parts.

If people would simply realize you fill as fast as you can with the initial fill before pump can even run empty for 2-3 seconds then most all of the 'bleeding problems' would disappear instantly. No, they wanna start the car and then while moaning fill it up after walking back to front of car, the mistake there. Even if prefilled the pump shoves that through faster than you can walk to front of car and there's your air in system when it runs dry again. The air gets in the fluid by letting the pump moan even for a second after work is done and bringing it back up online. Moan is evidence of ingested air. Anything you do to stop it helps the unit live much longer. The noise is the pump running dry and grinding the parts up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I wouldn't say never....saginaw systems in old vehicles, hummers, Volvos, all have you lightly hold it against the stop for a various times. Perhaps the focus isn't like that. Gently holding it to the stop is different than cranking it there and holding. Its way easier to do with the wheels off ground. Again, maybe the focus doesn't require it, but i have done it for years from corvettes, mustangs, trucks, and never blown anything. Maybe I'm just lucky. Lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,163 Posts
Bleeding with wheels on the ground loads the torsion valve to open without having to go to the end limits. How you bleed without stroking fully. Focus no different from other cars, they bleed almost instantly. No need to ever hold anything on, I never did on any car or truck I ever did at the garage unless it was equipped with hydroboost or the like. I found the initial fill had a tremendous amount to do with how much trouble you get with air in system. Pursue the initial fill hard and 90% of any bleeding issue is gone.

I also learned on a LOT of other hydraulic equipment not to do that, when you see a 2 inch hose blow to fail 500 gallons of fluid on the floor because it hit end limit, well, it gets your attention. BTDT. I blew old saginaw ball and screw hoses too back in the '70s as well as fork lift and clamp truck hoses. You learn don't screw with that.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top