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2000 Ford Focus ZX3, auto. 235k on the odometer.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2000 ZX3 (Zetec) developed a power steering leak at the pump housing, so needed a new pump. The pump swap was easy enough, however, upon reassembly, it now leaks where the high pressure line threads into the pump itself. Fluid appears to be leaking between the line and union nut. I've reviewed the threads on here for guidance, but am a little confused.

The new pump came with 3 rings: one black o-ring for the sensor, a white Teflon ring that needs to be worked down to the base of the high pressure line threads, and a third, smaller black o-ring. Unless I'm confused, I've read mixed things about whether or not this o-ring goes between the end of the line and the pump itself, or is even needed. My old pump, which was not leaking at the high pressure union before replacement, did not have an o-ring between the end of the hose and the pump; only the Teflon seal. The Ford shop manual I saw made no mention of this o-ring. However, a how-to guide here indicates it's needed, and I've seen random mentions of it on the internet. I copied the original configuration during reinstall of my new pump, only replacing the Teflon seal (no o-ring).

So I guess my questions are:
  • What's the deal with this extra o-ring? Do I actually need one between the pump and hose? I'm wondering if it's worthwhile to try and add this ring in (with a new Teflon seal).
  • Is it more likely that a seal has now failed in the union nut, possibly from line removal after years of being assembled, and replacing that (or the entire high pressure line) will fix the leak instead?
Thanks!
 

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Registered
2000 Ford Focus ZX3, auto. 235k on the odometer.
Joined
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: went ahead and installed the o-ring. The leak slowed substantially, but eventually started to seep again.

Defeated, I went ahead and put on a new line. So far so good, but will check on it in the morning to see if it's really sealed up nicely. After re-reading the threads here and tearing into the system myself, things make a little more sense. It appears the union nut itself, aside from the Teflon seal, is responsible for a lot of the sealing, and I guess that little seal in there is a "one and done" type thing; remove from the pump and it's tough to get it to seal again. This is why folks always suggest a new line or a surgical removal/replacement of the union nut.

Fingers crossed that I'm good to go now, but if anyone has any insight on the extra o-ring, I'd be interested to hear it.

As an aside, the rack connection can totally be reached with the car on ramps, without removing the LF wheel or lower motor mount/lifting engine.
 
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