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Discussion Starter #1
[rant] So about a month and a half ago, I went to purchase my first car, (Oh how I love my focus) BUT needless to say I'm disappointed in the way it's sluggish and sometimes I feel as if I'm loosing power, I've replaced, Air filter, plugs, plug wires, belts, and I've had it tuned, I met a hippy old ford mechanic named Russle... xD Anyway, he told me part of my problem would be that the engine mounts, and torque mount maybe the problem, also I've thought about changing the fuel filter and possibly the fuel pump,

Compared to my brothers Ford Focus, mine is very slow, and his is stock. [boxface]

2002 Focus zx3 5spd manual 2.0L
147,500 miles,

Oh and here's the funny thing, everything I replaced, I replaced because the car had all the stock stuff :p.. No bueno. [wrenchin]
 

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A fuel filter should help, and do you have a zetec or a spi engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2.0L ZeTec

Also, another problem I noticed, and I think this is due to the clutch using the same fluid as the breaks, its hard to shift while going over 4000 rpm's its easy to shift while sitting still (car still running) and while slowing to stop, so I think ill go ahead tomorrow buy some dot 5 replenish the break fluid and possibly buy the new fuel filter, ALTHOUGH isn't the fuel pump covered by warranty? Even if its been through 3 owners?

[nutkick]
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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STOP don't buy DOT 5...... stick with 3 or 4. 5 is actually a different compound, can not be mixed with the fluid that is in there now (dot 5 is made of silicone) and if you did change it all out, your brake pedal would be very spongy.

also it doesn't sound like a fluid issue anyway. How does it act when you try to put it into gear after 4k?

fuel pump? good luck trying to get a warranty job on a 9 year old car. I would have the fuel filter replaced..... that's the next step anyway. Assuming you don't know when it was replaced, it's been in there awhile and will clog up. It will put more stress on the fuel pump and eventually kill the pump too.


edit: I must laugh at engine mounts causing poor power...... and that I noticed you said the engine light is on. While you are on your quest to purchase a fuel filter, have your car scanned and report back here with the "P" code. (example: "P0420" which would tell me catalyst efficiency is below threshold. Nothing you need to think of but that's how a code can help)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
STOP don't buy DOT 5...... stick with 3 or 4. 5 is actually a different compound, can not be mixed with the fluid that is in there now (dot 5 is made of silicone) and if you did change it all out, your brake pedal would be very spongy.

also it doesn't sound like a fluid issue anyway. How does it act when you try to put it into gear after 4k?

fuel pump? good luck trying to get a warranty job on a 9 year old car. I would have the fuel filter replaced..... that's the next step anyway. Assuming you don't know when it was replaced, it's been in there awhile and will clog up. It will put more stress on the fuel pump and eventually kill the pump too.


edit: I must laugh at engine mounts causing poor power...... and that I noticed you said the engine light is on. While you are on your quest to purchase a fuel filter, have your car scanned and report back here with the "P" code. (example: "P0420" which would tell me catalyst efficiency is below threshold. Nothing you need to think of but that's how a code can help)

To be honest, engine light was reading emissions which I found out was the air intake, which is now fixed. The engine mounts actually do make a difference, if the engine isn't properly mounted and seated, it will raise causing less torque to go to the front axle there by causing less horsepower, :p I'm not a complete idiot although I'm no expert either.
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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OK so the engine light is fixed then. Unless you have a freely rotating engine you'd like to tell me about, worn engine mounts will only "reduce power" during the time it takes for them to load, IE tilt to their maximum position which takes less than a second. It would of course translate to a "slam" and a slight hesitation at the beginning of acceleration until said load is achieved, otherwise nothing major.
 

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man makes a valid point. i had that tourqe mount"slam" he speaks of. (VF engineering lower tourqe mount barley lasted me a year for some reason...)

fixed that problem with a new CFM lower tourqe mount with race bushing...no more slam. engine barley moves.

and i had a similar problem. turns out i got my MAF sensor wet(took on a wee bit of water thru my CAI) causing a CEL code. replaced the sensor, them poof...just like new.
 

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If everything else was stock then they probably didn't replace the timing belt either. The Ford recommendation is 120K so thats something else to look at.

Definitely change the fuel filter and pcv valve, both parts will cost about $20 total and will take around 30 minutes with minimal tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmm, while I was driving today, signaling to turn left, there was so much hesitation I felt like I was in a snailmobile, and I know there's something wrong with that :p
 

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As someone else said already, seriously look at your timing belt. If it has not been done, at all or within the correct mileage you could have a timing issue with your valves. If they are not opening or closing at the right time there is no way you engine can run efficiently. Idle might be smooth and seem fine, but when everything is running at 4000 rpms the timing really has to be dead on for the engine to get the most power. You could replace everything external that would make sense, but if the valve timing is off you won't fix your root cause.
 

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Hmmm, while I was driving today, signaling to turn left, there was so much hesitation I felt like I was in a snailmobile, and I know there's something wrong with that :p
There's no point in changing the fuel filter, loss of power while turning left usually indicates a weak fuel pump. I bet if you listen for it when you turn the key from OFF to ON, you'll hear it run for more than 3 seconds. That also indicates a weak fuel pump. Filters are only $7 or so, so you can change it if you want. My warning is: you do not have to remove the white clips, simply press the flat spot on the clip into the line and pull. The short section of line on the tank side of the filter is there because you can't get your fingers around the clip on that side of the filter. WIX filters come with the right replacement clips- otherwise those are hard to find. If you don't try removing it, you won't break it. The best way to discharge the fuel system is to disconnect the fuel cutoff switch in the passenger kick panel, and try to start the engine. Pulling the fuel pump fuse, for some reason, can cause the vehicle to run for a few minutes with a very lean mix.

That might give you a little time, but I think that filter was never changed and shortened the life of the pump. When you purchase a pump, you'll need to purchase a filter on the same receipt for warranty purposes.
 

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Were you signaling to make a left turn, or making a left turn? I can see WhyNot's point, but only if you actually making a turn.
 

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I have a 03 svt . Besides a cold air intake its stock. Can someone please watch my video and tell me if it should be faster than it is. It seems pretty dead. My YouTube channel is svtfocusftw7. Thanks guys.
 
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