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Discussion Starter #1
...and then picks back up. I just don't understand it.

It was like this, but much worse, before the catalytic converter was replaced. Also just replaced the spark plugs, had the egr valve cleaned, and did a timing belt and tensioner as well. Decided to throw in that top passenger mount while we were at it.

Today I just went and got the o2 sensor wires welded back together. Plugged it in, and reset the OBD2 bank and engine on the scanner tool. No CEL coming back up.

Now the car starts (and idles) just fine, but when I go to hit the gas halfway to WOT, the power picks and drops off. As in, bogging to start, then it picks up, then kicks down again, then picks up, and so on. So confused, and frustrated!

What could be the problem here? Any information I am missing, that you guys need to further help me?
 

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Not sure if it is the coil pack or the coil pack. If not either of those, maybe check the coil pack instead? Any hairline cracks = bad.
 

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Not sure if it is the coil pack or the coil pack. If not either of those, maybe check the coil pack instead? Any hairline cracks = bad.
Lol, you seem pretty sure on that. What gives? Is that the usual symptom on these engines, or are they just common to go the Zetec?
 

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Symptoms are not always the same, but similar. Yeah, bad coil pack might be the most common fault on that type engine.

Misfires - check the coil pack
Low on gas - check the coil pack
Low tire pressure - check the coil pack

Wiring going into the coil pack (not the spark plug wires) is also sometimes twisted, bent and damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wiring going into the coil pack (not the spark plug wires) is also sometimes twisted, bent and damaged.
I'll check this while I'm in there too, thanks.

Doing this tomorrow by the way.
 

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Coils change just like plugs on these, they commonly crack, the open allows moisture in to short the windings to various degrees.

Another Ford under-engineered part that works like gangbusters but overheats slowly in normal use to fail to make more part sales for them. Japanese motorcycles have been using small coils like that that NEVER crack since the '60s.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Coils change just like plugs on these, they commonly crack, the open allows moisture in to short the windings to various degrees.

Another Ford under-engineered part that works like gangbusters but overheats slowly in normal use to fail to make more part sales for them. Japanese motorcycles have been using small coils like that that NEVER crack since the '60s.
Cracking with heat is just something I would expect over time to happen. [burnout]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I changed the coil pack myself today, and wow! Made a huge difference in the way it ran. Much smoother and quicker acceleration. The bogging is ALMOST gone.

However, it's still a little sluggish when getting into the pedal a bit. Topped off the transmission fluid before being hard on it, and also replaced the upper transmission mount, since the rattle was getting out of hand. That helped a little bit, but it's still pretty rough.

After driving around town for about an hour, I noticed my CEL came back on. So, I hooked it up to the scan tool and checked for myself.

Evap Emissions something. I think the code was along the lines of PO140 or something. I'm sorry, I totally forgot it by this point. So I deleted the code to see if it would come back up. Nothing yet, but I'll make sure to keep an eye for it. If it comes back up, I'll go back and scan it again. Thanks for hanging in there with me everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Was just doing another quick trip around town and noticed something. The car was shifting pretty hard, especially it seemed, going from (I would say) 3rd to 4th. I of course don't have a tachometer in the car, so that does make it much more difficult to tell which gear it's in.

Now coming back home, something different happened that I wasn't expecting to happen. It went to shift again (feels kind of like it's revving up and just hanging there) and as soon as it shifted...pretty roughly, the CEL came back on! Checked tranmission fluid level. Good. Color? Red-ish pink. So it's pretty clean too.

So I ran back to the auto store, again, to have the light checked. Here is the "actual" code that came up...as in, pretty much just scratch that last post, lmao.

p0401. EGR Flow Insufficient Detected. I got a print out of it just to make sure. Only one code came up but of course many different solutions decided to show up. [V]

I did notice something here on the sheet as I'm looking at it though. Only one possible cause is the actual EGR itself. The other one single cause is the PCM has failed.

The rest all mention something of a DPFE? I've done a little bit of searching and research, but what do I do to change it? How hard is it to change? How many are there? Am I even on the right path here?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaaLrIdDp4Y

Found this. Useful at all?
 

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You need someone other than me to guide you. I'm a Zetec or DPFE dummy.

The DPFE and the vac hoses to & from it are known to fail. Your job for now is to find it, inspect it, inspect the hoses going to & from it. A disconnected or leaking vac hose will... hose you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You need someone other than me to guide you. I'm a Zetec or DPFE dummy.

The DPFE and the vac hoses to & from it are known to fail. Your job for now is to find it, inspect it, inspect the hoses going to & from it. A disconnected or leaking vac hose will... hose you.
Lmao, sorry man. I really do appreciate the help though.

Yep, after doing some MORE research on this, it looks like this is kinda-sorta a big issue among Focus owners, since they are all gaining in age, as everything else does.

So I'll check the lines tomorrow to make sure they are all fitted tightly and none of them are cracked. Just went outside to check. Mine's the type on the back firewall...which is more costly. Yay! [clap]

Could this be causing erratic shifting in 3rd and 4th gear though? How about loss of power?
 

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Could this be causing erratic shifting in 3rd and 4th gear though? How about loss of power?
I think so, yes. -and so could other things... but I will also defer to the other guys n gals here who have lived to tell about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think so, yes. -and so could other things... but I will also defer to the other guys n gals here who have lived to tell about it.
Found a white, square type wire unplugged today. Plugged it back in above the coil pack.

Reset the OBD2 and Engine codes. The CEL stayed off...until the car got warm. After the light came back on, (right as it went into third) the same shifting issues came up with 3rd and 4th. The car shifted great and smooth when it was cold, including from first to second at high RPM pull.

Thinking that this sensor may be causing the issues. Other than that, she's running good. I'll post back my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got a discount on the DPFE sensor today with my mechanic's discount. Ended up costing me $63, since mine is the more expensive one, mounted to the firewall.

It took me about 10 minutes to change it, in windy/rainy weather. All you need to remove it is an 8mm and possibly an extension. Also, a flat head screwdriver if you choose to move the intake tube out of the way.

Shifts smoothed out quite a bit, and best of all, no hanging in gear from 2nd to 3rd/3rd to 4th!

The transmission also shifts great at WOT from a standstill into second.

On top of all of this, the idle is much better (AFTER changing the engine mount and top transmission mount) and no more stuttering/misfire either.

So after all this, I was very pleased with it. Unfortunately, the CEL came back on AGAIN, so I'll be looking into that tomorrow. [scratch] New day, new part right? Lmao.
 

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Cool. You have made some great progress.

CEL = what now? Get it scanned and learn what the DTC is; the DTC will help you find the <next?> problem.
 

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^^^ Good progress for sure.

I've seen hints to replace the hoses to the DPFE with longer ones so they can loop down & up again to the sensor. The idea is to give a small water trap to help keep condensation away from the sensor for longer life.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cool. You have made some great progress.

CEL = what now? Get it scanned and learn what the DTC is; the DTC will help you find the <next?> problem.
Will check the CEL back at the shop after school today. About to get out here in a couple of hours. Thank you.

^^^ Good progress for sure.

I've seen hints to replace the hoses to the DPFE with longer ones so they can loop down & up again to the sensor. The idea is to give a small water trap to help keep condensation away from the sensor for longer life.
I thought about replacing the hoses, since those lines are generally cheap. Any way to clean them? Possibly spray some carb and choke down them by pulling them off? After replacing the sensor, the idle has cleaned up quite well and isn't shaking at a light so hard anymore. A small water trap? Haha.

However, after it warms up, (about 15-20 minutes of driving) I'm still getting a misfire issue at WOT in first gear. It ALMOST feels like a slip, but the car still shifts fine, so I know it's not a slip. I've felt a slipping transmission on a car before, and this is NOT it. 3rd gear seems to be shifting fine now, without miss. Hard downshifts have since come back as well. Damn it! Trying to beat this thing before it takes out my wallet. [chair]
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Checked the top two lines, small and big, going from the DPFE to the metal lines. Blew through them both, and I could feel air coming out of the other side. Both those are good.

However, we did find a line that was collapsed. In two different places! It's kind of hard to explain. It's on the back side, opposite of the PCV. It runs around right dead center down behind the engine. I can't pull it up from there.

Wow, pictures would really help here, lol.

CEL was the same code as before. I reset it again, but no change. The hard shifting from 3rd to 4th also came back, but only once the car has warmed up for more than an hour.

Anyways, I'm about two seconds from giving up on this car. Can anyone help, so I can try to restore my faith in this Focus?
 

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However, we did find a line that was collapsed. In two different places!

I'm about two seconds from giving up on this car.
Before you give up, why not identify and replace the bad hose? Can you tell us what it connects to? -on either end?

You can pull-up to almost any professional garage and someone there can tell you what the hose is FOR FREE.
 

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Haha, my mechanic couldn't even really identify this hose himself. Didn't know a name for it.

It's almost like an outlet for the PCV. If you reach down directly behind the engine near the center, you can feel one part that is collapsed. That line then runs around the engine, towards the coil pack, to a metal line. Right next to the two lines that come off of the DPFE. That metal line then runs through the side of the block, next to the coil pack and t-stat housing, and comes out the other end to the PCV.

Not sure if that helps to explain it, but I hope it made it a bit more clear for you?

Quick edit here: The transmission was doing much better on a few out of town trips tonight out to the country. 1st gear only gave me an issue once. It seems to come and go. I'm just not sure. Seems to get worse once the CEL comes on. Same code every time too.
 
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