[deandeib]

Just completed front right wheel bearing replacement on my 2011 Focus. That took care of the classic bad bearing noise I had been hearing. Now, I'm getting noises that I thought might be CV joint but the recommended test by full-lock turning in both directions was negative. Sometimes sounds like from right side, sometimes from left. Speed related, not wheel direction related and only while free-wheeling (coasting). As soon as I give it gas, the noise goes away. Sounds like light rubbing or sometimes thumping at frequency of tire rotation. Spinning wheels by hand does not produce the sound. Getting Desperate! Any ideas would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.

 

[amc49]

Could easily be an engine/trans mount issue of some type by description.................sure wouldn't expect it with '11 model but not out of the realm of possibility. I don't go looking for wheel bearings either until ten years past.

 

[deandeib]

I thought so too RE the bearing with only 45k miles and three years. But, changing it DID eliminate the "bad bearing" noise.

Now, I have this other issue described above. A bad motor mount could be possible since I did have a jack stand under the motor during my work on the wheel bearing and, I did try the "bearing test" described by a member here where you jack the car up and run each wheel with the engine to see which one makes the noise. OK. Any definitive test for bad motor mount? Used to just put a jack under the motor and look for mount separation with light jacking. Also, rev the engine and look for it trying to roll inside the engine compartment. Any other ways to check for a bad mount? Thanks.

 

[felixthecat]

I thought so too RE the bearing with only 45k miles and three years. But, changing it DID eliminate the "bad bearing" noise.

Now, I have this other issue described above. A bad motor mount could be possible since I did have a jack stand under the motor during my work on the wheel bearing and, I did try the "bearing test" described by a member here where you jack the car up and run each wheel with the engine to see which one makes the noise. OK. Any definitive test for bad motor mount? Used to just put a jack under the motor and look for mount separation with light jacking. Also, rev the engine and look for it trying to roll inside the engine compartment. Any other ways to check for a bad mount? Thanks.

Pretty much that.^^^^^.

 

[deandeib]

So we did a torque-the-engine-slightly test with parking brake on and easing out the clutch and saw what sure seems to be more engine movement than what might be considered normal. Engine rolls forward when tested. I see the PSM (passenger side mount), but haven't looked for the other (two?) yet. Assuming one near the transmission that the other on the drivers side somewhere. Any clues on where to look in case it's not obvious? Any other tips for our "experts" on going forward with the diagnosis and repair?
Thanks guys.

side question: what's the difference between "QUICK REPLY" and "POST REPLY"?

 

[amc49]

More NORMAL movement there than you think especially if using a good soft rubber mount. I consider up to 3/4-1 inch as normal in engine/trans roll, or what you're looking at there. With that movement you are checking mainly the dogbone, easy enough to yank it to inspect for tearing/missing rubber. Remove the dogbone and the entire engine and trans will swing forward/backward like 6 inches plus, they are hung from above on each end to do so like kid's swing. The dogbone then locates the roll in place. I often remove dogbone and replace with various length wood block to have more room working on one side or the other of the whole thing there.

 

[deandeib]

Great. I got the two bolts out of the dog bone but its trapped in place and I can't get it out. I can move it around and ALMOST yank it out but no dice. Hesitate to jack the engine more for fear of damaging the other two mounts. How do you pull it after the bolts are out????? Thanks for the help.

 

[Marde]

I never use a jack when replacing the dogbone because of what your fighting. Get the jack out of there. You need a crowbar type of tool to pry & swing the engine/trans some; then the dogbone will come out.

Edit: Have car on jack stands. While underneath car, pry engine forward with one hand and/or your shoulder, maneuver dogbone with the other hand. Can be tricky, but last time, for some reason, it was super easy. Work for a couple minutes doing nothing but finding a good set of points to pry against-> Think I was using the lower control arm verses transmission body.

 

[deandeib]

Yea! Makes sense. Just swing the bottom of the engine forward with a pry bar just enough for the dog bone to drop out. I'll give it a whirl. Thanks man.

Looking for one other than from dealer. Any good sources for this rear lower dob bone mount?

 

[amc49]

As he says.

And, it helps to understand that the sheetmetal that pinches at the top and bottom DOES truly pinch, it moves in closer and if next replacement part is slightly thicker you will not get it in until the opening is bent back open a bit more. I've run into that switching back and forth poly/not poly mounts. They vary sometimes in thickness of that bolt spacer.

 

[Marde]

Yea! Makes sense. Just swing the bottom of the engine forward with a pry bar just enough for the dog bone to drop out. I'll give it a whirl. Thanks man.

Looking for one other than from dealer. Any good sources for this rear lower dob bone mount?

After pushing n prying the trans forward, the dogbone does not drop out. You need to twist n turn n finagle out the dogbone ->towards the drivers-side of the car.

Please save yourself the grief of an aftermarket dogbone. << unless you want a poly-bushing type of dogbone, which are great, but stiff >> Get a Ford branded dogbone. Lots of "best prices" sources online and with the Vendors Section here at FF too.

 

[deandeib]

Man, how right you were RE "get that jack outta there and just push the engine forward by hand and the dog bone may just drop right out"! Yea, I was fighting the jack doing it the other way. Was able to push the bottom of the engine forward easily by hand and the dog bone came right out. Amazing what the right piece of information at the right time from the right source can do to turn a seemingly impossible job into child's play. Thanks amc49. I owe you one.