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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, yesterday I found out that one of my friends has a Dremel, and decided to port my throttle body. The entire process was pretty easy, and ended up costing me about $10 (it would have been like $5, but the first tube of epoxy set up before I could get it where it needed to go, so I had to get a second tube....and mixed it in small batches so it wouldn't get all gooey on me).

I removed the 'lip' that, for some reason, Ford decided to put there to restrict airflow....I was going to take of the vertical fins that some have talked about when doing this procedure, but my TB didn't have any to remove....The whole process took about 3 hours, including removal and waiting for the epoxy to set.

After putting it back on the car, and starting it, I could tell a difference in throttle response immediately. The car definately should have come this way from the factory, as it really wakes up the ATX. There isn't any sort of noticeable power gain, but the throttle response makes it seem like another car completely.

Now, onto my one problem. I got a little to aggressive with the Dremel in one spot, and ended up porting out the area that the butterfly valve needs to cover. When you hold the TB up to light, you can see a small amount of light passing through in one spot when the butterfly is closed. This is making my car idle higher (about 1200rpm), and also causing the engine to take forever to lose revs (if you rev it up, it takes forever for it to come back down to idle). Is there any way to fix this, or make it less noticeable (I can't think of any....)? Any ******* engineering ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, now my car is throwing DTC P1506 at me (Idle control), I don't think my ECU likes me right now....lol.
 

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Get a new tb and start over, Stay far far away from the sealing area for the butterfly. Im sure the is some way you could try to fix it but you risk material breaking off and fallnig in while your driving.
 

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Does any one have pics of this port job?,, I'm trying to get an used TB to do it but I dont have a clue how, some pics would help a lot! thanks!
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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And THAT is why I did not port my stock throttlebody.....
 

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Pkmgarf said:
Well, yesterday I found out that one of my friends has a Dremel, and decided to port my throttle body. The entire process was pretty easy, and ended up costing me about $10 (it would have been like $5, but the first tube of epoxy set up before I could get it where it needed to go, so I had to get a second tube....and mixed it in small batches so it wouldn't get all gooey on me).

I removed the 'lip' that, for some reason, Ford decided to put there to restrict airflow....I was going to take of the vertical fins that some have talked about when doing this procedure, but my TB didn't have any to remove....The whole process took about 3 hours, including removal and waiting for the epoxy to set.

After putting it back on the car, and starting it, I could tell a difference in throttle response immediately. The car definately should have come this way from the factory, as it really wakes up the ATX. There isn't any sort of noticeable power gain, but the throttle response makes it seem like another car completely.

Now, onto my one problem. I got a little to aggressive with the Dremel in one spot, and ended up porting out the area that the butterfly valve needs to cover. When you hold the TB up to light, you can see a small amount of light passing through in one spot when the butterfly is closed. This is making my car idle higher (about 1200rpm), and also causing the engine to take forever to lose revs (if you rev it up, it takes forever for it to come back down to idle). Is there any way to fix this, or make it less noticeable (I can't think of any....)? Any ******* engineering ideas?
Still think Ford should have sent it out like that?
 

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i dont know which part ur talking about but can u not just add some epoxy/rtv to fill in the seal, then sand it out so that its nice and smooth? [confused]
 

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Here ya go


Before and after of course
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes...I do still think Ford should have sent it out like this. If I wouldn't have been dumb, and wedged the butterfly open, I would have known where to stop Dremeling (...look, i just made a word..lol). I was thinking I could add some epoxy and sand it smooth...nothing *should* break off, as it would probably be just as strong as it was before.
 

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You could get JB weld and smear it over the area CAREFULLY, then smmoth it with spit on your finger after it begins to set, then bring it back down to smooth. It will take time and effort though to get it right, the JB weld will stick if you clean the surface with contact cleaner first.
Thats why I bought a 65MM TB from Newedgeperformance, easier and the work was done. I'm at a time in life where time is money.
 

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my car breaks!
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WAIT!

slow down turbo..

what you want to do to remove any kind of risk of your epoxyinf losening and falling into your intake is this...

take your friends dremil and get the smallest possible drill bit you can find. like 1/32 drill some holes all the way through where you broke the seal then put in your epoxy and make sure it smashes through those little holes. then press it together on the outside of the throttle body..

like this .. ( # = epoxy, || = throttle body wall )

#||#
#||#
###
#||#
#||#

now i'm not telling you this is going to work perfect, but it should fix it. Doing it this will will ensure you that your epoxy on the INSIDE of the throttle body is "ancored" and not just chilling against the inside plastic of the TB

just a thought
 

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viney: i feel that...im too old to mess around w this s**t...just give me the finished product ready to install...

i still dont know the part that ur talking about...it took me a few minutes before i realized the after was bigger...i'm staring at the pics and half expected that demon chick to show up and scream...[rofl]...i need some new glasses!
 

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Just buy a used 65mm like I did

This was obviously BEFORE I cleaned it lol

 

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my car breaks!
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yeah i'm getting a 65mm TB tomorrow to add to this conversation, and that means i'm putting it on tomorrow.. weather permitting
 

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MyCarBreaksAlot
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My stock throttle body did not look like those. I wish I could find it to compare again, but I swear my throttle plate was black and maybe 1.5x the diameter of a quarter...
 

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the computer compensate for the extra air that's getting past the TB at idle? Just like if you adjust the screw that the butterfly rests against at idle, it'll temporarily increase your idle speed but over a day or two the computer will figure it out and adjust timing to compensate. You might want to try disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes and see if the CEL goes away, and then if after a few days the idle settles back down to ~700.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think this is past the range of the ECU's compensation. I disconnected the battery when I ported it, and the CEL came on a day later. I've erased the code with an OBD II scanner since then, but the idle isn't settling down.

I wonder if I turn the idle screw down, if the ECU will be okay with the extra air. I would think so because if I turn the screw down so that the idke is where it belongs, the ECU will think everything is okay, and not try to recorrect it...or am I wrong?
 

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i dont think the ecu can compensate for that, otherwise there wouldnt be all sorts of threads about why ppl have hanging idles, etc...because its essentially reading it as a leak...i think its supposed to throw the code that way u can get it fixed...make sense?...when it compensates for the increased air its because it realizes that the car is getting more air at THROTTLE and it adjusts as needed however at idle there should still only be "x" amount of air...does that make sense?...iirc, the aftermarket tb's still have the same size idle air passages/holes/openings so that the idle air stays the same amount
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, I adjusted the idle screw on the TB, and it helped a lot. Now when I rev it, it the revs will drop to about 1500rpms, then after about two seconds drop to a pretty good idle at 900-1000rpms. I'll have to wait and see if the computer messes with it or not.
 
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