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Discussion Starter #1
I hope someone can help me figure out my issue! I have a 2003 svt and have been struggling to fix a rich condition. I have been fouling plugs within 500 miles and I have done many things to try to solve issue, including upgraded coil pack and 8.5mm wires, new O2 sensors, sct itsx standard tune, and i tried finding vacuum leaks but haven't hooked up a Guage yet, so my first (before cat, which is now orp) 02 sensor says im still running rich and i get a bad miss at about 4000rpm. Doesn't always happen but seems to happen more often when its wet or really humid outside. I am only throwing a code for my evap system which is now removed. The lines still run from the engine compartment to the rear of the car but the throttle body whole has been plugged and also the canister was removed. When I look at my engine data I see my long term fuel trim is at almost -6.0. If anyone has an idea please chime in because I'm truly at a loss! Thanks for your time!
 

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well first load the stock tune back to it

if i had to guess i would assume you have a faulty injector
 

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I hope someone can help me figure out my issue! I have a 2003 svt and have been struggling to fix a rich condition. I have been fouling plugs within 500 miles and I have done many things to try to solve issue, including upgraded coil pack and 8.5mm wires, new O2 sensors, sct itsx standard tune, and i tried finding vacuum leaks but haven't hooked up a Guage yet, so my first (before cat, which is now orp) 02 sensor says im still running rich and i get a bad miss at about 4000rpm. Doesn't always happen but seems to happen more often when its wet or really humid outside. I am only throwing a code for my evap system which is now removed. The lines still run from the engine compartment to the rear of the car but the throttle body whole has been plugged and also the canister was removed. When I look at my engine data I see my long term fuel trim is at almost -6.0. If anyone has an idea please chime in because I'm truly at a loss! Thanks for your time!
Hope you got it figured out by now, but if not you may wanna look at the fuel pressure regulator, which incidentally does work off of vacuum, has an electrical dongle connection, and does eventually go bad internally. It can cause some wildly varied drivability problems, and yeah, it would usually be running rich. Nothing lasts forever, but we tend to overlook the small, essential parts that control the fuel flow. Worth checking if you are still searching. The coil pack and wires may look nice but they are a waste of money, as is well documented on this car, and a lot of folks have reported having problems with aftermarket coil packs on this application, so please be aware. If you are having a big miss, you may have a cracked coil pack causing it to arc/lose voltage, but that's easy to check. Like prior said, restore OEM tune and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
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It was the fuel pressure sensor! Thanks for the reply though. She is up and running better than ever! Even though it's far from the quickest car I've ever owned its definitely one the the most fun to drive!
 

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View attachment 308257 View attachment 308258 View attachment 308259 View attachment 308260 View attachment 308261 It was the fuel pressure sensor! Thanks for the reply though. She is up and running better than ever! Even though it's far from the quickest car I've ever owned its definitely one the the most fun to drive!
Sweet ride! Still looks awesome in that deep blue hue. Invest in a new rear 'dogbone' torque strut mount for the engine if you haven't already; makes a world of diff with the poly bushings in that part (CFM/Steeda) vs. stock item. Looks like you already have the upgraded 67mm throttle body (CFM?), which again makes a world of difference in general drivability and lag reduction vs. the stock unit. You can always do serious induction/engine/exhaust mods to go quicker, but personally I would just do what matters to make the car better all-around, like adding limited slip diff (wavetrac), stainless brake lines (goodbye squish), better bushings, better shifter...the things the bean counters prevented from inclusion on this SVT to make it the best factory car it could be. I may not be the fastest off the line, but I pass pretty much everything else down the road and through corners with confidence where they back off.

Oh, one mod I added to mine on a whim is a capacitor/grounding kit for the engine bay, and I have been rather impressed with the strong throttle response gained under load and I often pass on two-lanes without downshifting from 6th now as it has good pickup response (the alternator w/internal voltage regulator has always been a weak point on this car, and be sure to clean/tighten your grounds to body). Nice pics, BTW! Going into winter and all I can think about is summer tires, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You hit the nail on the head with just about everything. I have/want to upgrade all the engine mounts, I already have an aftermarket 220 amp alternator with the big 3 in 0awg high-strand audio cable (mostly because im running 2000 watts rms between both amplifiers). But i also have some rather rough looking brake lines that I want to swap out and upgrade the caliper hoses to braided lines as you suggested. I just noticed that my right side(pass) front spring is broken on my eibach s-street coilover, so most likely that will be the first to get tackled when the snow starts to fly. They look like they have some rough miles on them and were installed already when I purchased her early in May so I may go with something altogether different. I was thinking either BC or maybe kw street comforts, as I'd like just a tad more subtle of ride. Right now shes almost alittle too stiff. But that could be just because she's showing her age. I just hit 140k so I was thinking aswell about going through the engine over winter and giving it a refresh ( rings, valve job, possibly porting and larger valves). Cams have slight wear on them that I noticed when I changed my valve cover gasket in August so if I can find new stock replacements I might do that aswell. Its funny because I bought the car just for the purpose of having a sporty daily driver with a hatch for my stereo. As im also building a small block swapped 86 FC RX7 weekend warrior. So I wasn't trying to start another "big" project car. But I guess I should have known better! Duh! I really appreciate your input! Thanks for th1e help, and I will try to put up more photos when I get abit further! I just have to keep my goals in FOCUS!
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I'm interested in how you did the grill delete .My new edge mustang has the mach 1 grill delete but I have never seen a focus with it before
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As i was waiting for my new st170 grille to be shipped from overseas I couldn't stand the ugly hood latch so I temporarily secured the ford badge from my stock svt grille, with double sided 3m tape on the front of the latch.
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That's cool I never thought to try it I love it on my mustang never crossed my mine to try it on my svt great idea though I want to get a euro grill also just so damn pricey lol
 

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Now that I think of it I'm surprised they didnt ever make a mach 1 style grill delete for the focus they have a similar shape n style
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Now that I think of it I'm surprised they didnt ever make a mach 1 style grill delete for the focus they have a similar shape n style
I was lucky enough to find a decently priced grill on eBay from England I want to say with shipping it cost me about 60 bucks and then I just painted it to freshen it up a bit. Next I'm going to mask off the inner part of the grill and do the outline in the sonic blue pearl just like the rest of the car. If it turns out like I hope it should look bitchin!
 

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View attachment 308257 View attachment 308258 View attachment 308259 View attachment 308260 View attachment 308261 It was the fuel pressure sensor! Thanks for the reply though. She is up and running better than ever! Even though it's far from the quickest car I've ever owned its definitely one the the most fun to drive!
As i was waiting for my new st170 grille to be shipped from overseas I couldn't stand the ugly hood latch so I temporarily secured the ford badge from my stock svt grille, with double sided 3m tape on the front of the latch. View attachment 308288
Curious as to what fog bulbs U got in there; I tried some LED yellow that are decent but don't get full pattern coverage, although, lol, yours may be almost too bright. Still, I'm curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Copy this and search on Amazon. I got them for like $70 shipping included. And they are AWESOME! I have them pointed low enough that people don't flash their highbeams at all, but it helps me see soooo much better at night. I just changed the bulbs themselves and still are using the factory svt housing.
Brand: HIKARI WINGS
4.6 out of 5 stars 361Reviews

Hikari 2020, 9005 HB3 LED Headlight Bulbs, 150% Brightness, 100% Extra Night Visibility, TOP XHP50.2 LED 10400lm 6000K Cool White
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Id say they are equally as bright as my hid's are. When I bought her a previous owner had installed hid fogs aswell and to be honest the never worked right, so I figured I'd take a chance with some less, and I haven't looked back! They use less electricity, are way more durable, and they light instantly. Im also planing on incorporating them into the signal lights, so they will flash aswell.
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So the description you posted says cool white color; do you have amber overlays on lenses, or is that just the bulbs, but in an amber/yellow (a proper fogs color)?

Also, seeing your showroom shiny Hella headlights guilted me into cleaning mine today so I could 'see' down the road with my new HID bulbs (stock) and be seen clearly when I light off those high beams from Hella...love, love, love those high beams from Hell-a, yes I do.

Oh, I did install led tail lights, which give an instant-on response, but I got hyper flash blues and don't really want to mount resistors for it; any ideas on a flasher relay compatible with LEDs, or quality bulbs front/rear that won't cause it?
 

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Curious as to what fog bulbs U got in there; I tried some LED yellow that are decent but don't get full pattern coverage, although, lol, yours may be almost too bright. Still, I'm curious.
Ok, so now I'm curious about the ST170 grill, since my original grill is held on only by safety wire at this point as its' brackets are broken, lol. What, no pics? Is it a direct fit? Dear Santa...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Lol, first off thanks for noticing because it took a good couple hours to wet sand and buff. But definitely worth it. I have wet sanded and buffed the whole car from bumper to bumper. And it does make the world of difference in brightness, not to mention lookin sick! But when it comes to the fogs i purchased the car with them having what looks like yellow tint over the lenses. But I copied the title from my old Amazon order so thats the exact bulbs that are lit in the pics. My thought process was since I had yellow tint on the lenses, if I got a cool blue like the head lights it would end up looking green with the tint. So I tried to get a white to already yellow bulb so the colors wouldn't fight each other. Now looking back I should have got a pure white because in person they almost look orange sometimes. But it still works. The absolute best and brightest leds on the market in my eyes are by diode dynamics. I have my tail lights tinted pitch black, and you can see how bright the lights still are. They make many versions but you will always have to use some sort of relay or resistor to stop hyperlinks because most (older) cars are wired to expect filament bulbs so the want to see i believe 8ohms. And since LEDs are a different resistance they end up blinking faster. I still have to install resistors but check out their site because the make some awesome products! I believe its diodedynamics.com. keep in mind, they are high-end bulds so not exactly cheap. But for me it was absolutely worth it! When it comes to the st170 grille it basically clips right on with very little mods. The only thing I had to do was trim about a sq inch out of the top middle of the grill. just so my hood release lever had room to move. Otherwise its a pain to reach over the grill to pop the hood when you can barely fit your hand in. I will post some pics for you tomorrow morning. I have the car parked in the shop already for the night, otherwise I'd do it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I also have a fair stock svt grille if you need. The tabs did break but I repaired them with 3m 2part catalyzed panel bond. So they are as strong as ever. The only down side is the turn signal lenses are tinted black from the guy I purchased it from. I was going to sand off the tint and try to re-clear the lenses to look oem once again just incase I ever wanted to put the car back to stock. But I love my new grill so much I don't see that happening. Let me know if I can help with anything else aswell!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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Here you go bud, sorry it took me a while. But if you'll notice, without trimming for the hood latch release its a pain in the butt to reach the lever. But it was litteraly a 5 minute fix. I just outlined the area I thought id need to trim with some tape(to make sure my lines looked straight), and used a dremmle tool with a sandpaper bit to trim away the area. Other than that it snaps right in place on the radiator core support. Since their aren't many aftermarket options now days for svt or mk1 focus grills, i personally feel the st170 looks the cleanest. The grill pattern doesn't exactly match the lower bumper grill, but I think it still looks better than having running lights. I have a question for you though. I could really use a source for a list of oem part numbers, and I can't seem to find an oem parts book anywhere
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. Basically my problem is I need a new bushing that sits on the top of the shifter, bit trying to explain that or attempting to look that up on a parts website is a pain in the a**. It never pops up under trans or drivetrain parts, nor interior or anything I've tried. And I understand they probably don't make parts like that anymore but if I had a part number or parts list(book, website,etc) I could probably find someone selling NOS(new old stock) parts. So im sort of lost....
 
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