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I haven't had any luck finding out if this is a common problem, so i will post it here with the hope that someone had the same problem. Basically, my rear brakes are rusting pretty heavily compared to the front (I only have 31000 miles) and was told when i did one of those quick lane inspections back in july that I would need new ones in december. When I questioned the service guy about it he really didnt know why, but did make sure to tell me they could do it for $2000 dollars. Im just wondering if there is a fix to this problem or should i just get new brakes, as my front discs do not have the same problem. It is an automatic, but i do use my parking brake every time i park, i don't know if that makes a difference.
 

w/ my magic bag
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IDK where your located at, but for sure you'll want new rotors & pads....I'd be looking at aftermarket Zinc coated rotors, clean & grease the slide pins....
 

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I'm in michigan. i just want to make sure that this isnt a repeating problem where its a bigger problem than just this set of brakes. I went out after seeing your reply and took another look at the rotors and they don't look horrible. Its just strange because there is no noise, and the brakes still feel fine. (all though im new to working on my car, so i cannot be sure) Regardless I will probably be replacing them soon, but gonna be a learning process as I have never done them before. Thanks for the help!
 

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I will be updating this with a picture tommorow, gonna have to take the tires off to get a better view, as i have steel wheels on right now for winter.
 

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Do you mean the area of contact the brake pads make with the rotors is rusted or just the general condition of the rotors overall?

When I questioned the service guy about it he really didnt know why, but did make sure to tell me they could do it for $2000 dollars
$2000 for replacing your rotors because of rust?
Clearly trying to take advantage of you.
Even if they charged you $300 a wheel it still wouldnt be 2k.
 

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Never agree to any work or plan to replace parts when someone tells you that something needs to be replaced but doesn't know why, especially if they are performing well and nothing looks to be wrong. If you do need them at some point, you can find some good quality rotors on Amazon for peanuts. I just bought some ACDelcos for the rear discs on my MK3 for under $5 each. That wasn't the normal price but they were being sold as "open box" items from Amazon Warehouse. I don't need them immediately so they're sitting on the shelf so they'll be ready when I need them. They came uncoated so I also masked the braking surface and painted them as I also live in the rust belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay so here are the pictures of the rotors, i dont think they are that bad, but like i said im new to doing all this myself. (i can tell there is way more rust then on the front rotors though) let me know what you all think
IMG_20191203_164407.jpg
IMG_20191203_164415.jpg
 

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Where you located at? Near a coast, car sit outside?
 

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I put new front rotors on my Focus about a month ago and they are already rusted. The things aren't made out of corrosion resistant material because the rust itself doesn't inhibit their function. As long as they are not worn below the minimum thickness and are not warped as would be evidenced by pulsing of the brakes when stopping, they are perfectly fine. As long as you don't let the pads get worn down to the metal backing, a set of rotors will last a long time. You can get a cheap set of digital calipers to measure the thickness at the braking surface at several points just to verify that the thickness is ok. Then if confronted about them again, ask what they measured the thickness at AND what exactly is causing them to be deficient. The fact that they are rusty is NOT a reason to fail them. The rust is merely a cosmetic issue and the reason some opt for coated rotors. Even if there is some rust on the braking surface, that quickly gets worn away during use. This said, one thing I like to do is to coat the surface of the rotor where it contacts the wheel (around the base of the lugs) with anti-seize paste as it keeps the wheel from getting rusted to the rotor. If you ever take the rotors off, do the same where it contacts the hub to keep those two parts from rusting together as well.
 

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Surface rust is fine and will be scrapped off the first few revolutions during braking. Those rotors look like the pad smeared all over them though. However, if you don't notice any braking issues and your pads look fine then I'd just wait until you come up on your pad replacement to swap them.
 

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Surface rust is fine and will be scrapped off the first few revolutions during braking. Those rotors look like the pad smeared all over them though. However, if you don't notice any braking issues and your pads look fine then I'd just wait until you come up on your pad replacement to swap them.
Having "pad smeared" on the rotors isn't such a bad thing. In fact, that is essentially what "bedding" your pads entails and it increases the friction between the pad and the rotor. I used to think bedding involved getting a bit of wear on the pads to make the rotor and pad surface to mate up perfectly but that is not the case. When you get a new set of rotors, you don't want to make any sudden stops as it is much better to bed your pads in with about a half dozen gradual stops starting at 40-50 mph. This transfers a thin layer of the pad material to the rotors to improve performance and longevity of the rotors. People talk about bedding in a new set of brake pads but it is only really necessary when you also install a new set of rotors as the material from the previous set of pads will otherwise still be there.

I do see what looks like some mild scoring which can happen when some debris gets caught between the pad and rotor as you brake. It is normal and as long as it is not excessive and brake performance is good, I wouldn't worry about that either.

EDIT: I checked the allowable scoring on drums and rotors as dictated by our state inspection standards and some scoring is indeed permissible (which makes sense because all rotors will have some degree of scoring after some use). The amount allowed may vary by state but here's what it says for PA:

Drums or rotors must not be scored deeper than 0.015 inches (0.38 mm)

Personally, I've never been failed for scored rotors but I've been failed multiple times on rotors being below the minimum thickness when they actually weren't. I find that frequently when an inspector is pressed on the exact specifics of the failure and you ask for measurements and the wording of the statute, they often back off because they don't really have anything. Usually they will couch it by saying that it was "just a recommendation" which is BS.
 

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You need new pads and rotors.
You have scoring, the otherside probably looks worse than the side you took a pic of, but these brakes are so cheaply made i doubt you can get them resurfaced and be in spec with them.
Its not worth getting them resurfaced.
You only need to rent a caliper compressor tool from autozone(or a big pair of needle nose pliers and press really hard while turning them) and a 7mm driver socket bit to change them yourself for significantly less than $2000.
 

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You only need to rent a caliper compressor tool from autozone(or a big pair of needle nose pliers and press really hard while turning them) and a 7mm driver socket bit to change them yourself for significantly less than $2000.
Yeah brake parts are super cheap, would be about $150 shipped for coated rotors and ceramic pads for all four corners from Durango:

Can spend more if you want a different brand but still way under the shop rate, $2k is crazy...not even sure how that is calculated
 

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Having "pad smeared" on the rotors isn't such a bad thing. In fact, that is essentially what "bedding" your pads entails and it increases the friction between the pad and the rotor. I used to think bedding involved getting a bit of wear on the pads to make the rotor and pad surface to mate up perfectly but that is not the case. When you get a new set of rotors, you don't want to make any sudden stops as it is much better to bed your pads in with about a half dozen gradual stops starting at 40-50 mph. This transfers a thin layer of the pad material to the rotors to improve performance and longevity of the rotors. People talk about bedding in a new set of brake pads but it is only really necessary when you also install a new set of rotors as the material from the previous set of pads will otherwise still be there.

I do see what looks like some mild scoring which can happen when some debris gets caught between the pad and rotor as you brake. It is normal and as long as it is not excessive and brake performance is good, I wouldn't worry about that either.
Yea I meant pad smear as if the pads over heated on a track and left uneven deposits on the surface.
 

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Yeah brake parts are super cheap, would be about $150 shipped for coated rotors and ceramic pads for all four corners from Durango:

Can spend more if you want a different brand but still way under the shop rate, $2k is crazy...not even sure how that is calculated
$300-$450 per wheel is going rate for brakes at a shop from what i could find.
Can do pads and rotors by self for the cost of one wheel.
 

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Stay The hell away from whoever told you $2000. That鈥檚 insane. Probably should swap rotors Ana pads Ana even with labor, like others have said, or should be well under $300 with labor. DIY $50.


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I've always thought that learning to do your own brakes was one of the most cost effective things one could do in maintaining their vehicle. You can do the job with a very modest set of tools without a lot of time or money invested. It is typically a very easy job to do, particularly on disc brakes which is the majority of late model vehicles. Also for people who are squeamish about crawling under a vehicle, this job is probably less risky than doing an oil change. Furthermore, it seems like the cost having this work done by a professional has skyrocketed in the last 10-20 years. In the same timeframe, the number of available resources available to the shadetree mechanic have increased greatly. For most vehicles, you can find a detailed, vehicle-specific YouTube video on performing this task. That said, it is always good to also have access to a factory service manual to make sure you are doing things right. The added benefit is that you are educating yourself so you are better prepared to confront a mechanic when they tell you something that doesn't seem right or costs too much.
 
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