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i have a 05 focus zx3. got the car about two years ago never had any problems with it. a few months ago on the way home from work i stopped to get gas a few miles before my exit. getting on the interstate i laid on it kinda hard after cruising for a mile or so the car hesitated then died. the speedo and rpm gauge dropped to zero. just before the hesitation a couple engine lights came on but went right back off. when the car died the odometer just showed lines and dots. i have power to everything but the engine will not turn over. nor is there any draw on the battery when you try to start it. i did some research and found a few cases of the samee thing happening. for a few it was the pcm. recently i had a mechanic look at it was somthing inside the pcm. i went to the dealer andthey told me just a pcm would be around 1700. would ordering one off ebay work or would i be better off trying to find one in a junk yard. please help!!
 

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Get a quality Scan tool and attach to the DTC OBD-II port and see if it communicates and what codes you may be able to retrieve. It could also be the BCM or ICM. Either of which will show with a quality scan tool. Snap-On, AutoEnginuity, Blue Point, etc.

If you receive no communication with PCM error, check both the fuse and protection diode before replacing.

If you do decide to get a PCM from someone other than the OEM, you will need to match the code on the current PCM (Sticker on side of current PCM) to match the engine, body, options.

If you do get a used one, you can use a J2534 Pass-through connector via the DTC-OBD-II port to flash the PCM directly using a high-end scan tool if it doesn't have the latest greatest flash from FOMOCO.
 

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please help!!
Thomas made some excellent points in his post above. Adding to what he said, another similar thread (I posted in it earlier) might help you some too. ->
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=516937

BTW, the PCM is a tank and very rarely fails.

Get a quality Scan tool and attach to the DTC OBD-II port and see if it communicates and what codes you may be able to retrieve. It could also be the BCM or ICM. Either of which will show with a quality scan tool. Snap-On, AutoEnginuity, Blue Point, etc.

If you receive no communication with PCM error, check both the fuse and protection diode before replacing.
Hi Thomas. You obviously know your way around a car and I suspect you have some great experience as a car tech/mech. I do not. I have no professional car experience, and only know the basics plus a few extra things about my Focus. Welcome to FF Thomas.

I wanted to add that a "quality" scan tool is not required to verify OBD communication. Any ol' cheap scanner can do that part. The scan tool my local Auto Zone uses is junk; and mine is equally junk, but has lots of features for a mere $20 investment. Mine is a OBD bluetooth adapter connected to a smartphone using the Torque App.

I am guessing a 2005 (OP's car) does not have a BCM (??) I think the BCM came along in (IDK) 2007 or 08 or 09?? Also, I do not even know what a ICM is... Ice-Cream Control Module? As you can tell, my car and even my Focus knowledge ain't all that great.

Cheers!
 

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If you just see lines in the odo when turning it on it's often a ground problem - check all the small grounds from & near the battery including connection to the harness.

PCM diode in the underhood fuse box is another possibility for it not getting proper power.

P.S. - I see there's a current thread with more description of my comments here:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=516937
 

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Thomas made some excellent points in his post above. Adding to what he said, another similar thread (I posted in it earlier) might help you some too. ->
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=516937

BTW, the PCM is a tank and very rarely fails.



Hi Thomas. You obviously know your way around a car and I suspect you have some great experience as a car tech/mech. I do not. I have no professional car experience, and only know the basics plus a few extra things about my Focus. Welcome to FF Thomas.

I wanted to add that a "quality" scan tool is not required to verify OBD communication. Any ol' cheap scanner can do that part. The scan tool my local Auto Zone uses is junk; and mine is equally junk, but has lots of features for a mere $20 investment. Mine is a OBD bluetooth adapter connected to a smartphone using the Torque App.

I am guessing a 2005 (OP's car) does not have a BCM (??) I think the BCM came along in (IDK) 2007 or 08 or 09?? Also, I do not even know what a ICM is... Ice-Cream Control Module? As you can tell, my car and even my Focus knowledge ain't all that great.

Cheers!
My Bad! ICM... Injector Control Module and, Your Car does have a BCM, better known as a GEM (Generic Electric Module) on older models, same basic function, just CAN Bus Supported (separate from MPD ((Main Power Distribution)). Both CAN and BCM have been around since 1982 and was invented by BOSH for the European's. We've had them around since the mid 90's but wasn't mandated by who else? the EPA in all 08 Models forward. Why, because the Europeans are destroying the environment and air but we're the only ones who blame ourselves for all bad things associated with Global Warming. Yeah right!

I am not trying to be condescending or otherwise insult.

Most "over the retail counter" Scan Tools will communicate with the PCM via the OBD-II port reasonably slow and give up after a couple tries.. HOWEVER, they are "Generic Communications Capable". And, nothing more is expected of them. BTW, most Auto Zone Type Places have a mid level range tool which is very good and can monitor 50 - 100 system points.

You may require and "Advanced System Module Capable Tool" can be set to constantly attempt to communicate and capture data should it get through because of a corrupted KAM (Keep Alive Memory) or PFD (Programming Flash Data). Yes you can reset it without a scan tool but not like most say to remove the negative cable. You have to remove the negative cable and attach a jumper no grater in size than 22 AWG for up to 15 minutes to drain the capacitors and stored energy reserves.

For example, a Generic Tool rarely can monitor more than a few specific sensor functions and data capture can be in seconds rather than milliseconds and even up to 5 or more seconds on older PWM (Pulse With Modulation) say MY 1998. And, "most often only retrieve a Hard Code" (Stored).

Looking at your vehicle, there are a little more than 500 individual tests, sensors, and feedback modulation scenarios. Of these, one or more (probably 20 or 30) can cause your problem.

A KOEO (Key on Engine Off) test will test communications with all required components and then some and provide failures to the user. ie: " IDM (ignition driver module) Failed" This would prevent cranking because the PCM knows it's not going to start. And would not display a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) to display because the engine would have to be cycled at least once for it to be logged and displayed while running.

Troubleshooting would lead you to determining the validity of the Green Wire with a White Tracer from the Ignition Switch to Pin# xx on the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). A simple Chafe or break in the column using a DVOM (Digital Volt OHM Meter) and also on the switch and PCM I/O (input/output) pin-outs.

It may show and EIP (Electronic Instrument Panel Failure) which could also cause a no start / no crank as there is no reference voltage to signal the ignition circuit. (This is actually an easy temporary fix with a directional BIOS diode and a soldering gun)

Another Scenario could show a defective upstream or downstream 02 sensor which would allow it to crank but not start. But, doesn't apply her. Just an example.

In addition, Advanced Tools allow testing of all the CAN, GEM, HVAC, Steering, Audio System, Clock Spring Circuits and much more.

Most mid range and higher allow the user to activate things like compressor clutch's, perform cylinder balance and contribution tests as well, which are very telling, and cancel out cylinders (I've seen the result of someone unplugging a spark plug and hydro locking a cylinder, he saw a $1,700 bill for a $3.00 spark plug wire. KOER (Key On Engine Running) which will allow viewing of several areas as well as graph 02 Sensors.

Now, I'm certainly not attempting to get you to go buy one. And, am definitely not saying a Generic Code Scanner is of no use. All I'm saying is it may well be worth you time to lease one, use someone's, or get a friend of a friend to stop by on a weekend for a adult beverage as payment. Someone, somewhere, has one if you dig far enough.

I have access to ones that cost in excess of $6k with several thousand dollars in annual fees for specific manufactures. I also personally own a couple high end as well as Scopes.

**My primary tool for troubleshooting is a Quality ($500) Graphing DVOM and Back Probes. But, you could essentially do the same for about $80 -
 

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My Bad! ICM... Injector Control Module and, Your Car does have a BCM, better known as a GEM (Generic Electric Module) on older models, same basic function, just CAN Bus Supported (separate from MPD ((Main Power Distribution)).
Hey man, i'm not here to dissect your words or argue, but wanted to add a few comments to help you or others reading...

Offering any help online is tricky. One tiny slip of wording can confuse others and the OP. My prior post was an effort to help ID words and acronyms you used that might have been confusing to others -or- were confusing me.

My car does NOT have a BCM "better known as a GEM" ; my car only has a GEM. My earlier post was asking for help about when the component "BCM" or acronym formally came to exist on the Focus... and now I guess I am learning that the GEM was replaced with the BCM at some point <but when?> -cool. Also, for your info, my 2004 car with a GEM has a CAN-bus or the PCM uses CAN-bus for some I/O to other components... not sure ATM because I am working off of memory not a book.


... Why, because the Europeans are destroying the environment and air but we're the only ones who blame ourselves for all bad things associated with Global Warming. Yeah right!
Your not the first one to get off-topic and do some weird ranting.

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"You have to remove the negative cable and attach a jumper no grater in size than 22 AWG for up to 15 minutes to drain the capacitors and stored energy reserves."

So your saying... uh,... that's some confusing words there. Kinda funny. OK, bigger/thicker wire is OK, but smaller wire is not OK, got it. Thanks.
 

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'Your not the first one to get off-topic and do some weird ranting.'

LOL...................BCM or GEM, CCRM or IRCM, PCM or ECM, what's a poor soul to do with all this nomenclaturetorial bullsh-t????

To OP, before I lifted another finger I would make dead 100% sure the battery is fully charged and even pull a loadtest on it first. You'll be amazed at the freaky electrical things and events that will happen without 100% power on these cars. I would then look hard at alt charging next. PCM failures on these cars is a fluke and any mechanic that points you there right off the bat is either a flake or a fraud.
 

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Thank you for all the input. Ive done a little testing. bettery is fully charged checked and replaced all blown fuses\diods checked all grounds. Everything looks good but nothing has changed. Ive had multiple people mess with it and they have all come to the same conclusion something is up with the computer. But only the first person used a scan toll I don't currently have access to one. When looking for a PCM what all has to match?
 

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Do you have a second key?

Try it first.

And explain what you mean by:
... replaced all blown fuses/diodes
How many and which ones?
 

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Have you checked and changed all the ECU diodes ( 2 black looking fuses ) and fuses ?

There is a small ground wire going to the batt its small and over looked a lot

It wont do any good to do a scan tool , if you have - - - - - - in the ODO the OBDII port it turned off

It looks like you have set the PATS , could be key, fuses , wiring , bad ECU , bad ECU would be very very rare

Tom
 

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speedo dashes

Ive had this happen to an 02,03 and 04 focus. all three ended up being small ground wire by battery on fenderwell . its kinda hard to see , blocked by air box some. you may want to check this area. hope this helps
 

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Hooray!

Tx for posting the outcome.
 

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Yes, that is what they are talking about.

Not the larger "small wire" that goes from battery to body.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There is a small wire that is grounded to the strut tower on the passenger side it runs to a type of diode then I think a wire runs out of the diode to the harness. The wire connected to the strut tower broke some how causing the pcm to lose connection with the harness
 

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Aha!

A problem at the other end there, not what I guessed.
 

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Hey thanks all and sorry for the late reply. We gave up on it but found a 2009 with great engine, body and interior for 800, just needs a trans. However, this is a light blue S with grey cloth interior and the 2010 was white with black leather. We plan on swpping seats, doorskins and headliner to tie in the black with grey. She's extremely happy so this dad is happy!
 
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