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Discussion Starter #1
So last night I did a compression test on my 06 ford focus, when I got finished putting the last cylinder together I went to open my door and the horn started going off. It didn't go in a pattern it seemed like it wasn't a car alarm that someone broke in but it seemed like the pattern the horn went in was the decision of the car. when I got in to try to turn it off by entering the key in the ignition it would only click and keep honking so in that circumstance I disconnected the negative terminal and then I tried to start it and it fired right up. I noticed that the security system on the bottom of driver side was flashing rapidly. I had a similar problem like this before I replaced the battery and alternator then my problem went away, but now its back and its been less then a year since I've replaced that alternator and there is no way it has w gone bad already. So now when I want to start my car I have to pop the hood while it honks uncontrollably and remove the negative connection to start my car.

I'm using the same key it says ford on it and even then I used my spare and neither of them are damaged, I broke my fuel pump relay while I was doing my compression test but I looked up a diagram and noticed the relay next to it was a high beam relay and switched them. Could that be my problem? or should I replace it and keep looking? please help I'm scratching a hole in my head.
 

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2006 ZX3 2.0, 2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT
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If you bought a rebuilt alternator instead of a new one it could definitely be bad.
 

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What you get with lifetime warranty parts. You think it means better quality stuff but what it actually means is that they will give you junk over and over when it fails for a lifetime.

Even the brand new alts can fail way early if they do not have heavy duty regulators in them. (They don't.)

I gave as many as 4 warranty alts in a year to people, the parts are that bad now.
 

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The fuel pump and headlight relays are the same - that should not be your problem. Also keep in mind that the factory car alarm system is a seperate system from the PATS. A PATS issue will not cause the alarm to go off - you just wont be able to start your car.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you bought a rebuilt alternator instead of a new one it could definitely be bad.
It definitely not rebuilt because I bought it from AutoZone. Do you think the the battery could not work for this car it has a 550cca and the old battery was a 660cca the other day I was sitting in the parking lot of my work just listening to music and my car was dead by the time I got finished with my lunch break.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The fuel pump and headlight relays are the same - that should not be your problem. Also keep in mind that the factory car alarm system is a seperate system from the PATS. A PATS issue will not cause the alarm to go off - you just wont be able to start your car.

Paul
that is the weird thing about it is when it starts honking by itself I cannot start my car at all but the dash will light up. I disconnected the horn so I could listen to clicking and it seemed to be coming from behind the dash im not sure if that's from the horn going off or something else. I also noticed if I locked my car then unlocked it with the key it would go off but if I didn't it would be just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What you get with lifetime warranty parts. You think it means better quality stuff but what it actually means is that they will give you junk over and over when it fails for a lifetime.

Even the brand new alts can fail way early if they do not have heavy duty regulators in them. (They don't.)

I gave as many as 4 warranty alts in a year to people, the parts are that bad now.
Hahaha shit the alternator was a bitch to get out. Do you think it could possibly be the connection?
 

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I went to open my door and the horn started going off.
That is the clue. Does the alarm sound (or the clicking behind the dash) by only moving the door or only when latching/unlatching the door?

BTW is the clicking from under the passenger side of the dash?

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is the clue. Does the alarm sound (or the clicking behind the dash) by only moving the door or only when latching/unlatching the door?

BTW is the clicking from under the passenger side of the dash?

Paul
It sounds like it comes from the middle of the dash, it stopped doing it recently and acts just fine now. But when the door is locked and I unlock it with my key that's when it beeps oddly. It dosent have a normal pattern it dosent sound like a car alarm at all. To get it to stop I have to disconnect my negative terminal and reattach it to get it to start up. It's very odd I've never had anything like this before. It makes me wonder if the PCM could be bad
 

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It sounds like it comes from the middle of the dash, it stopped doing it recently and acts just fine now. But when the door is locked and I unlock it with my key that's when it beeps oddly. It dosent have a normal pattern it dosent sound like a car alarm at all. To get it to stop I have to disconnect my negative terminal and reattach it to get it to start up. It's very odd I've never had anything like this before. It makes me wonder if the PCM could be bad
PCM has nothing to do with the anti-theft alarm.

Paul
 
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