Thought that I'd tack on this thread as my situation is similar but different.....
Hoping that someone can point me in the right direction. I have a 2001 Ford Focus 2.0 Ztec DOHC. I bought the car with 182K miles on it. Ran really well for a few weeks and then all of a sudden as I was pulling into a parking spot it died on me. I was pretty low on gas and was just going to put gas in it but went in to do my grocery shopping real quick. Came back out and no start. It kinda changed sounds too as I was trying to start it. Almost like there was no resistance. So I asked a friend to watch as I cranked and the serpentine belt was turning so I knew the start was engaging. ALmost sounded like it wasn't. So then I thought, timing belt. Sure enough, loosened the cover and had someone watch as I cranked, not turning. So I put a new belt on. Yay. Worked for a few days and then not so good.
I had noticed that ever since I bought it that it would stumble for a second at different speeds and RPMs. I didn't think much of it and thought I would fix it in the spring as it's Michigan and cold now. Well one day I was almost to work and it started running really rough. Almost like I had dropped a cylinder. So I got it home and took it to my cousin's to hook up his scanner that links to his tablet. It was throwing a few codes.
P0455 Evap Leak (Large Leak)
P0457 Evap Leak (fuel cap loose/off)
P1237 Manuf Defined
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temp for closed loop
P0302 Cyl 2 misfire
Reset the codes and see what was what and still had
P1237 Manuf Defined
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temp for closed loop
P0302 Cyl 2 misfire
The other thing that we noticed was the fuel pressure was high. It was pegged at 81.8PSI even though I read that it should be at about 30-70 depending on RPMs. So I went to the stealership and looked at the pricing and availability of the Fuel Rail Pressure sensor (they were calling it a Fuel Injector Sensor) and they said it was $160 but on backorder with no promise date

And the Fuel Pressure Regulator ( hose with the metal diaphragm inline) was $130. Yikes! So I went to the junkyard in hopes of getting a good one or at least one that should maybe change the symptoms. I found both parts for $16 and off a car that had the fuel system still intact thankfully so hopefully not exposed to the elements. I put that on and I am still seeing the high pressure but at least now it is registering a code for it. These are the codes I am getting now.
P1237 Manuf Defined
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temp for closed loop
P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor circuit high
P0302 Cyl 2 misfire
Sorry had all this typed up before and lost it. I forgot this part I replaced the thermostat for the P0125 code as I could only get decent engine temp when sitting. As soon as I started driving it went away....yup, thermostat. (BTW, anyone have a tip on replacing those stupid torx screws that hold the thermostat housing together??? What a stupid design IMHO) So that code should no longer be an issue.
I tried clearing the codes a couple times after replacing the sensor and dampener and it was the same thing both times.
So my question is two fold. How come now that it is actually seeing that the pressure is too high is the pressure not being regulated down? Could a bad fuel filter cause that? It's restricted so the pump is pumping harder to push through? But why would it push so hard and not at least fluctuate some? I did notice with the newer/old FRPS (I can't remember now the exact situation) where the pressure went up to 82.something momentarily but it pretty much stays pegged at 81.8. No matter what the RPMs are. I notice that the TPS sensor is fluctuating so it's sensing the change in throttle position. Is there something wrong with the pump and it's not able to vary the voltage to regulate the pressure? Is there something wrong with the ECM and it's not able to regulate the voltage to the pump to vary the pressure? How would I check that? Is there some test points I can take some voltage readings to figure that out? I read some of the other posts that talked about the vacuum hose from the sensor having fuel in it. Neither the old one that was on there or the new/old one from the junkyard had any fuel in this line so I don't think that was an issue. I also thought I read something about the formed elbow that connects to the intake sometimes collapses? (That may have been on the PCV valve, I don't recall) I don't believe this is happening on this one though. Is there a replacement hose for this or do most people just replace it with some hard elbow inline connectors?
Second question, is the misfire related to the high fuel pressure? I ohm'ed out the wires and I think it was 6K, 5K, 6K, 3K for wires 1-4 respectively. But nothing with a really high resitstance, especially not cylinder 2. I even was twisting them around a bit when doing the readings. Could I have a bad coil module? I'd rather not have to replace it if I don't have to. It's only like $70 but that's $70 I gotta earn. Is there something else I should be checking?
Thanks for any help you guys and gals can give.