car ran PERFECT. alternator went out, alot of people said to replace the coil pigtail.
replaced coil pigtail.[but accidently switched 2 of the 3 wires around]
car still wouldnt start, so replaced alternator. [it tested as fail]
car would start but idled and drove rough as hell. no accel, lots of backfire, going over 5k would = backfire like crazy.
so i then went to autozone and grabbed a coil pack, autolite double plat plugs, bosch plug wires and installed em. car was slightly better. but i heard a hissing from the intake couplers.
i swapped the couplers out with plumbing grade ones. worked GREAT for like 2-3 days. but out of no where it sounded like a god damn subaru again and stalled out a couple times. driving it i have to shift @ 3000rpms because its missing like crazy.
so i put the stock couplers back on the intake mani runners, and i still have the same problem.
however, the only codes im getting right now are the pending codes...and they are misfire on cyl 1 and cyl4 [p0301, and p0304] and my CEL light is on.
i cant get over 5k in 1st
but in second i got to redline without much problem.
it seems like it still hesitates. also, i was able to redline 1st once or twice. which i thought was odd. it never lets me go over 6 without massive backfiring
You can't check it yourself cuz there is not spot on the fuelrail to check, they use a laptop and go through your OB2 port.
Yea, you take it to ford and pay em 100 to do a 9920 I think that's what its called, and they check over your whole car and tell you what's wrong with it.
And if it is the fuel pump that's causeing it, they will replace it for free (if ur in the 10yr less than 150k) and you won't pay nothing.
Since you're finding wet spark plugs, I doubt you're having a fuel starvation problem.......rather the opposite. Too much fuel.
As to why this is happening after the alternator swap......you probably had the battery disconnected. The ECU relearning process could have screwed up.
I suspect a MAFS issue......often can leave multiple codes, particularly misfire codes. It can cause running problems, A/F problems with wet plugs, etc. In fact all the problems you report......as well as being intermittent.
I fixed a few cars with a bad MAFS that had over 20 separate codes at once.....a new MAFS fixed everything. Cleaning the thing would be my first step, along with an ECU relearn. But this is only educated guessing.....a trip to the dealer may be cheaper.
Basically it relearns automatically.......but the best way seems to be to warm up the car, turn it off, unhook the battery for five minutes. Then reconnect the battery, start the car and let it idle for a while.
But if your MAFS is faulty, a relearn won't fix it. But it's worth a try I guess....You could also try cleaning the MAFS with special cleaner from an auto parts store, and then do a relearn.
Basically it relearns automatically.......but the best way seems to be to warm up the car, turn it off, unhook the battery for five minutes. Then reconnect the battery, start the car and let it idle for a while.
no the msd coil pack was on there already. I replaced it with a duralast one from autozone. I was getting the CEL code for coil pack, so thats why i replaced it
Possible Causes: Fuel injectors, related wiring, sensors and computer issuesRunning out of gas, or poor fuel qualityEvaporative emissions system (EVAP) concerns: fuel vapors leaking into engineIncorrect Fuel PressureEGR system concerns: leaking EGR valve or restricted portsBase engine concerns: low compression, valve train problems and timing issuesIgnition system concerns including, but not limited to:[][][]Faulty spark plugs[][][]Faulty coil or related wiring[][][]Ignition module or related wiring issues[][][]Ignition related sensor faults or wiring issues
Looks like you took care of the electrical side of things. Fuel pressure would be the next step. There is a TSB on the earlier fuel pumps, but I forget the number. Wait, the alt., and coil went at the same time? You replaced the coil with an MSD? Was it new, or e-bay?
Possible Causes: Fuel injectors, related wiring, sensors and computer issuesRunning out of gas, or poor fuel qualityEvaporative emissions system (EVAP) concerns: fuel vapors leaking into engineIncorrect Fuel PressureEGR system concerns: leaking EGR valve or restricted portsBase engine concerns: low compression, valve train problems and timing issuesIgnition system concerns including, but not limited to:[][][]Faulty spark plugs[][][]Faulty coil or related wiring[][][]Ignition module or related wiring issues[][][]Ignition related sensor faults or wiring issues
DO NOT disconnect the battery AGAIN, and just let the ECM go through the relearn before continuing to panic and doing anything else. WHENEVER you disconnect the battery for any reason and then reconnect it, let the ECM get through the relearn BEFORE "romping" on it/test flying it. The "relearn" is essentially explained in your Owner's Manual under "Battery, replacement". Try letting the ECM complete the relearn and then see if you've still got the performance issues, and then report back. The problem is that you've now replaced a wack of parts since the initial issue of the alternator crapping out. After rereading this thread, I'm baffled.......what actually made you replace the alternator?
ok i dont know if it was because I plugged the larger clip all the way in on whatever is mounted on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay. it has two large tubes that clip in, and I just pushed on it a little and moved about a quarter inch or so.
I took it to 5k in first and it let me keep going, so i think that was the problem. The question now is, do i try and see if the MSD coil and wires work, thus being able to make my money back by returning items?
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