[Dennyj1992]

So I hate to add to the long list of problem threads I already have, but here's another (maybe just for fun, lol).

I finally got rid of the EGR code P0401 by replacing the EGR valve, and I drove about 1,200 miles without any codes.

Now, I power washed my whole car and engine bay about 3 days ago. Yesterday, a random code decided to pop up.

P0113. So, I figured out that the IAT was integrated into the MAF by some research. Cleaned out the little pins that come down into the intake MAF with some MAF cleaner. Checked the cables. No splits or cracks. What could be wrong?

Did I ruin my MAF by power washing over top of it?

 

[Dennyj1992]

BUMP. No replies?

 

[sailor]

Have you got access to a scan tool? (can't remember)

Easiest is to look at the IAT reported & see if it matches reality.

If it does, clear the code & don't worry unless it reappears.

Water in a connection could cause a temp. problem that you've fixed by cleaning the one you did.

You've found the "stickie" in the How To's listing the codes, right?

 

[Dennyj1992]

Have you got access to a scan tool? (can't remember)

Easiest is to look at the IAT reported & see if it matches reality.

If it does, clear the code & don't worry unless it reappears.

Water in a connection could cause a temp. problem that you've fixed by cleaning the one you did.

You've found the "stickie" in the How To's listing the codes, right?

Yes I do have a tool, at the shop. Haven't "deleted the code" with the tool, but I have disconnected the battery twice now. Code comes up after about 20 miles of driving.

Now sure how to the check the reality on the IAT. Is that all I have to do? Is clean those two little pins? Or do I have actually have to pull the sensor apart and clean it? Wiring looks good as said before, but is there anything else I should be looking for?

I did find the stickie, but it didn't seem to be much help for me, sorry.

 

[sailor]

A scan tool that's just a step above a simple code reader (like my cheapo from Harbor Freight) can show a lot of current values of different items.

Intake air temperature reported is one of them, just like engine temp.. If you were looking at the reported temp. and it matches what you'd expect based on outside temps. you could figure it's working right.

I don't know what you mean by "the two pins that come down into the intake MAF", initially I thought you were talking about taking the connector off & checking/cleaning the contact pins.

 

[Dennyj1992]

A scan tool that's just a step above a simple code reader (like my cheapo from Harbor Freight) can show a lot of current values of different items.

I don't know what you mean by "the two pins that come down into the intake MAF", initially I thought you were talking about taking the connector off & checking/cleaning the contact pins.

Yes, that's what I'm talking about. I just sprayed them both with MAF cleaner and let them dry. Still got a code.

I think I'm gonna change it and see if it fixes the problem. If not, then I'll just return the new part and slap the old one back on there. [deviltail]

 

[sailor]

MAF connector has to have more than two pins....

"No returns on electrical" usually comes into play.

 

[amc49]

'If not, then I'll just return the new part and slap the old one back on there.'

There you go again. Why don't you just buy a new engine and return that?

You really do not consider taking back every part you buy as bad do you?

 

[Dennyj1992]

No. Just the ones that are incredibly expensive and happen to be out of the budget so much, that, if in the case it IS bad, I keep the part. If not, I return it with very minimal wear.

...at this point, nothing has been just a "needed a cleaning" kind of part. They all have needed replacing.

 

[Dennyj1992]

As said in the other thread, the part has been replaced on the light is now off. Thanks for the help guys.

Now just to continue tracking this strange shifting issue.