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I guess i should update this thread with some my mileage and issues while im here.
At exactly 30k miles all the brakes went at the same time, summed it up to cheap pads without wear indicators.
Replaced the factory cooper tires at 36k because i wasnt sure they would make it thru the winter even though they would have passed inspection.
At 54k or so miles i replaced my purge valve due to inability to put gas in my car occasionally, not a big deal to do but can become one if it gets ignored when it starts failing.
At 56k my clutch slave cylinder failed, and its getting the whole clutch assembly replaced since it failed the slip test. No clutch related issues before it went.
The brakes caught me by surprise as i wasnt expecting such a complete failure with low miles and mostly highway driving, All focuses will get the purge valve problem eventually so a hundred bucks after 5 years wasnt too bad.
Reliability wise other than the brakes and radio issues just oil changes from a maintenance stand point.
The clutch seems like a freak thing so im not going to fault ford reliability on that, but i will on the factory brakes.
 

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I replaced my spark plugs at 55k miles and had a noticeable improvement in NVH over the factory plugs. The engine runs a lot smoother throughout the RPMs now, even after changing the oil ~50 miles prior.

The middle plug had the most wear on it (most charring and deposits on ground). All 3 factory plugs still maintained their .028" gap. I ordered the NGK 93593 SILZNAR8C7H plugs since it was either those or Motorcraft plugs... The NGK plugs are pre-gapped to .028" and were a bit tight on the feeler gauges. I loosened them up just a bit before installation. You'll need a long 9/16" spark plug socket to get to them.


Next up is transmission oil. I've already got 2L of Motul DCTF ready but need the time lol
The Fiesta ST uses the same transmission (B6), but I don't know if the FiST clutch/pressure plate is the same. That would be nice since TASCA has shown our clutch disc as 'unavailable' every time I've looked. Other parts websites have been the same...
Anybody up to swap in a Quaife differential??? 馃槣
I've done some reading in the Fiesta Forum and they have said that the fill amount specified in the owners/service manual is incorrect. Following instructions of "20mm/1" from the [fill] hole" would yield ~2L and not the 1.67L the owners/service manual states. Others have said Ford techs have put in 2L in some people's FiST when they've complained of shifting noises. I've seen enough of their arguments to put all 2L of the Motul DCTF in when I get around to changing it.
 

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I'll update this:

I'm sitting at 193K miles and the passenger engine mount broke 12 hours into a 14 hour drive to Colorado. Engine started stalling and dying while cruising down the highway and I'd have to either pull off or do a rolling start. I'm assuming some of the oil got on the accessory belt.

I also have to replace the AC compressor. I ran through a DEEP puddle a couple months ago and now the AC compressor will stop working after a couple hours.
 

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Not bad man. My mount was pretty much shot at 90k. Engine still shakes like crazy though. Are you considering that timing belt soon?
 

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Not bad man. My mount was pretty much shot at 90k. Engine still shakes like crazy though. Are you considering that timing belt soon?
Nah. I might replace the RMM with the Focus electric one while I'm down there but I don't think I'm going to touch the belt anytime soon.
 

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Do it! The E-Focus RMM made a tremendous difference in shift quality and NVH. Startup is harsher though...
I couldn't find the RMM for the e-focus but I did get the new passenger mount in. There seems to be a revision of the original engine mount that I can't find any info on but they're physically the same as far as I can tell.
 

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The service manual says the timing belt is "maintenance free" since it's bathed in oil. Sweet. But our owner's manual says that the timing belt should be inspected at 100k miles, then "inspect every other oil change until replaced."
,
"Maintenance free" until it snaps and your engine eats itself. Shame on Ford for writing that BS.
 

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,
"Maintenance free" until it snaps and your engine eats itself. Shame on Ford for writing that BS.
My mechanic friend said he could replace it as long as I picked up the tool kit. Looked it up and pricing was pretty damn high. I'm a little apprehensive on letting him tear into it. I also called two local ford dealers trying to get a quote and none have called me back.
 

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This is the one I bought.
Awesome, thanks. I noticed the and shift quality better with the new passenger mount compared to the last one (associated with a new or stiffer mounts) and less vibration (which is normally associated with a softer mount) but I'll give the mount a couple weeks to break in before any actual conclusions.

"Maintenance free" until it snaps and your engine eats itself. Shame on Ford for writing that BS.
What gets me is the euro 1.0L says that should be replaced at 150K while the USDM version is "lifetime." I wonder what made them change that.
 

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Before I changed my passenger mount to the updated one, the car was pretty much bucking and jerking from a stop and acting like my clutch was shot. Cured that thankfully. Also helped with the 2nd gear bang I would get on shifting.
 

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Before I changed my passenger mount to the updated one, the car was pretty much bucking and jerking from a stop and acting like my clutch was shot. Cured that thankfully. Also helped with the 2nd gear bang I would get on shifting.
Which passenger mount did you use?
 

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I replaced my spark plugs at 55k miles and had a noticeable improvement in NVH over the factory plugs. The engine runs a lot smoother throughout the RPMs now, even after changing the oil ~50 miles prior.

The middle plug had the most wear on it (most charring and deposits on ground). All 3 factory plugs still maintained their .028" gap. I ordered the NGK 93593 SILZNAR8C7H plugs since it was either those or Motorcraft plugs... The NGK plugs are pre-gapped to .028" and were a bit tight on the feeler gauges. I loosened them up just a bit before installation. You'll need a long 9/16" spark plug socket to get to them.


Next up is transmission oil. I've already got 2L of Motul DCTF ready but need the time lol
The Fiesta ST uses the same transmission (B6), but I don't know if the FiST clutch/pressure plate is the same. That would be nice since TASCA has shown our clutch disc as 'unavailable' every time I've looked. Other parts websites have been the same...
Anybody up to swap in a Quaife differential??? 馃槣
I've done some reading in the Fiesta Forum and they have said that the fill amount specified in the owners/service manual is incorrect. Following instructions of "20mm/1" from the [fill] hole" would yield ~2L and not the 1.67L the owners/service manual states. Others have said Ford techs have put in 2L in some people's FiST when they've complained of shifting noises. I've seen enough of their arguments to put all 2L of the Motul DCTF in when I get around to changing it.

I just replaced my plugs today at 66k, and its been running smoother in the drive back from the spot where i go to work on my car.
It needed it in my opinion as you could feel a difference when it gets cold out, even after i fixed my thermostat.
20210221_190240.jpg

I tried to get my endoscope that hooks onto my phone to peek down into the cylinders to have a look inside but it decided today was the day to fail... Oh well.
But i could see from the top there is buildup in the combustion chamber.
 

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I just replaced my plugs today at 66k, and its been running smoother in the drive back from the spot where i go to work on my car.
It needed it in my opinion as you could feel a difference when it gets cold out, even after i fixed my thermostat.


I tried to get my endoscope that hooks onto my phone to peek down into the cylinders to have a look inside but it decided today was the day to fail... Oh well.
But i could see from the top there is buildup in the combustion chamber.
I was shocked at how smooth the engine was after changing the plugs. I don't want to think how bad it would've been following Ford's service interval and replacing them at 100k miles. :sick: Which ones did you get? Motorcraft, NGK, or a different one?

I've been thinking on a service to take care of the carbon buildup for preventative maintenance. I'm at ~61k miles now so a little less than you now. It does not sound good that you can already see buildup without and endoscope. There's a bottle of SeaForm in my closet that's waiting for warmer weather. Not sure how much good that will do, but it's worth a shot.

Before I changed my passenger mount to the updated one, the car was pretty much bucking and jerking from a stop and acting like my clutch was shot. Cured that thankfully. Also helped with the 2nd gear bang I would get on shifting.
I think it's time to replace my passenger mount. Starting from a stop is jerky and is making me paranoid about a bad clutch. I did the Ford clutch test (engage parking brake while parked and shift into 4th. Release the clutch pedal. The clutch is slipping if the revs don't fall quickly) so my clutch isn't bad.
 

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I was shocked at how smooth the engine was after changing the plugs. I don't want to think how bad it would've been following Ford's service interval and replacing them at 100k miles. :sick: Which ones did you get? Motorcraft, NGK, or a different one?

I've been thinking on a service to take care of the carbon buildup for preventative maintenance. I'm at ~61k miles now so a little less than you now. It does not sound good that you can already see buildup without and endoscope. There's a bottle of SeaForm in my closet that's waiting for warmer weather. Not sure how much good that will do, but it's worth a shot.


I think it's time to replace my passenger mount. Starting from a stop is jerky and is making me paranoid about a bad clutch. I did the Ford clutch test (engage parking brake while parked and shift into 4th. Release the clutch pedal. The clutch is slipping if the revs don't fall quickly) so my clutch isn't bad.
I got motorcraft ones, SP-538-A(HYPFS-093-YEC) they were different looking than the ones i took out though, they had much larger electrode (and didnt look like it was inserted on like a saw tooth would be but like a conventional plug electrode)and no ford mark on the ceramic.
They were the same otherwise so i wasnt sweating the difference.
I have a whole can of the crc spray stuff for DI engines(which was like 25 bucks) im supposed to be using at every oil change but have been hesitant to use it because of reading about them wrecking turbos with high temps.
Im used to doing the seafoam thing occasionally but never on a turbo car(i actually took the turbo off my turbo sprint and cleaned it in a bucket and ran the stuff thru the motor without it, it was stuck with carbon anyway).
It wasnt that bad what i could see in there, but i could see it so now i know its there.
I usually get 93 gas and use once a year fuel cleaner 2 times a year so maybe they arent keeping up enough with it.
Im definately due for atleast one mount somewhere at this mileage, but this motor lurches back apon takeoff just as it did when new so i cant use that as a determination(ive never looked at the rear mount though).
 

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I got motorcraft ones, SP-538-A(HYPFS-093-YEC) they were different looking than the ones i took out though, they had much larger electrode (and didnt look like it was inserted on like a saw tooth would be but like a conventional plug electrode)and no ford mark on the ceramic.
They were the same otherwise so i wasnt sweating the difference.
I have a whole can of the crc spray stuff for DI engines(which was like 25 bucks) im supposed to be using at every oil change but have been hesitant to use it because of reading about them wrecking turbos with high temps.
Im used to doing the seafoam thing occasionally but never on a turbo car(i actually took the turbo off my turbo sprint and cleaned it in a bucket and ran the stuff thru the motor without it, it was stuck with carbon anyway).
It wasnt that bad what i could see in there, but i could see it so now i know its there.
I usually get 93 gas and use once a year fuel cleaner 2 times a year so maybe they arent keeping up enough with it.
Im definately due for atleast one mount somewhere at this mileage, but this motor lurches back apon takeoff just as it did when new so i cant use that as a determination(ive never looked at the rear mount though).
I have seen the comments that using SeaFoam and other cleaners on turbo engines isn't a good idea since it could raise exhaust temps above the turbo limit or cause the turbo to overheat. SeaFoam says the spray is safe to use on turbo engines for what it's worth. I don't plan on strictly following the instructions of "spray continuously until contents are empty" and stagger the spray so exhaust temps can fluctuate a little.

I saw a performance difference between using 87 and 93, and kept using 93. I'm "limited" to 91 after moving and use that.
I'll often grab the Chevron cleaner whenever I see it on sale and I'm at a store that sells it. I haven't noticed a difference between before and after using the cleaner...
 
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