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2002 Focus ZX3 (Zetec) 95k miles (as of 05/2021;)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings!

I did a bunch of maintenance items recently:
  • timing belt, water pump, front main seal, timing belt tensioner, replaced cam pulley bolts
  • serp belt, tensioner
  • thermostat housing

Now I have an oil leak.
I put the UV dye in the oil and drove it for a week.
Good news, not rear main seal.

I have just re-thoroughly cleaned all the areas the dye was showing up.
Which includes around the lower oil pan.
There's no leaks (that I can see from higher up in the engine).

Found a leak from the bolt for the pin used to lock the crankshaft when you're doing the timing belt service.
It was already snug, but I tightened it a bit more.

310669


Is there a washer or gasket that belongs there that's supposed to be replaced?

I know the oil pressure sender is a common culprit, but I didn't see any dye there.
No dye from valve cover.

So it might just be the timing pin (not sure what you call this thing), and possibly the valve cover gasket?
(Which I wouldn't be super surprised as it took me a few weeks to complete the service so the engine was supported (per the instructions I was following) by a 2x4 under the oil pan held up my the jack..

Thoughts?
 

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The blanking plug for the crankshaft timing pin should be a flanged head bolt with a washer under the flange. IIRC some have the stud and some dont.

Paul
 
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Mine had the stud as pictured. Wasn't expecting it because the video howto did not. Had to buy a deep socket to get at it. I don't remember about a washer, but I have no leak. Maybe the seal you replaced? My seal wasn't leaking so I left it alone. Still good 10k miles later.
 

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2002 Focus ZX3 (Zetec) 95k miles (as of 05/2021;)
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Mine had the stud as pictured. Wasn't expecting it because the video howto did not. Had to buy a deep socket to get at it. I don't remember about a washer, but I have no leak. Maybe the seal you replaced? My seal wasn't leaking so I left it alone. Still good 10k miles later.
Likely not the seal. I used UV dye to trace leak.
I didn't see any leaks from there..

See image above as you can clearly see it's leaking (the parts that are glowing green) out the timing pin blanking plug (thanks @Paul1958 for the proper name. ;)
 

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2002 Focus ZX3 (Zetec) 95k miles (as of 05/2021;)
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I was that sure I would just buy a new one. But I see yelllow all over the place if that's the UV dye.
Any idea what the part number is?
Or size of the washer?
 

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thanks @Paul1958 for the proper name. ;)
Well thats what I call it - Ford may have a different name for it.

On your engine was anything bolted/attached to the integral external threaded stud?

Paul
 

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I don't think that stud is meant to hold anything. I think it's there in case you round off the nut, since it's at a bad angle to reach with a standard wrench. So then you can grab the stud with pliers. Better to use a deep socket to start with, but if you don't have the right tool, people will try a wrench. I saw one mechanic do that on video and it worked for him. But mine was too tight for that. I needed a socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well thats what I call it - Ford may have a different name for it.

On your engine was anything bolted/attached to the integral external threaded stud?

Paul
When I did the timing belt/etc, it was so covered in grease I had to brake clean the hell out of it to find it..
But the bolt you see in the picture is what was there before the service.
It's possible there was a washer I lost in the process, but I don't remember dropping a washer when removing it..

Hopefully snugging that up a bit did the trick.
I won't have a chance to drive it again til next week.
If it's still leaking I guess I'll have to remove it and put a washer in there.
 

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2002 Focus ZX3 (Zetec) 95k miles (as of 05/2021;)
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well thats what I call it - Ford may have a different name for it.

On your engine was anything bolted/attached to the integral external threaded stud?

Paul
When I did the timing belt/etc, it was so covered in grease I had to brake clean the hell out of it to find it..
But the bolt you see in the picture is what was there before the service.
It's possible there was a washer I lost in the process, but I don't remember dropping a washer when removing it..

Hopefully snugging that up a bit did the trick.
I won't have a chance to drive it again til next week.
If it's still leaking I guess I'll have to remove it and put a washer in there.

Well thats what I call it - Ford may have a different name for it.

On your engine was anything bolted/attached to the integral external threaded stud?

Paul
Nope.
(BTW checked Ford Shop manual. Blanking plug is he exact term used there.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ahh. Found the torque specs for the blanking plug.
24 Nm (which translates to 17.7 ft/lbs I think).
Curious that my blanking plug looks different.

310707
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You mean that it has the threaded stud which the diagram does not show?

Paul
The picture I included threaded stud is in the same location as the plug in the diagram.
Curious that they're different.
 

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The picture I included threaded stud is in the same location as the plug in the diagram.
Curious that they're different.
Im 90-95 percent sure that this is the blanking plug for Zetec without the threaded stud:

If the threaded stud is not used on your car perhaps you can get one of these which has the washer.

Paul
 

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2002 Focus ZX3 (Zetec) 95k miles (as of 05/2021;)
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Im 90-95 percent sure that this is the blanking plug for Zetec without the threaded stud:

If the threaded stud is not used on your car perhaps you can get one of these which has the washer.

Paul
Doing a little digging.
The timing pin's size/thread pitch is M10x1.5 not sure the length, so likely a oil drain plug crush washer for M10 would work?
 

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Greetings!

I did a bunch of maintenance items recently:
  • timing belt, water pump, front main seal, timing belt tensioner, replaced cam pulley bolts
  • serp belt, tensioner
  • thermostat housing

Now I have an oil leak.
I put the UV dye in the oil and drove it for a week.
Good news, not rear main seal.

I have just re-thoroughly cleaned all the areas the dye was showing up.
Which includes around the lower oil pan.
There's no leaks (that I can see from higher up in the engine).

Found a leak from the bolt for the pin used to lock the crankshaft when you're doing the timing belt service.
It was already snug, but I tightened it a bit more.

View attachment 310669

Is there a washer or gasket that belongs there that's supposed to be replaced?

I know the oil pressure sender is a common culprit, but I didn't see any dye there.
No dye from valve cover.

So it might just be the timing pin (not sure what you call this thing), and possibly the valve cover gasket?
(Which I wouldn't be super surprised as it took me a few weeks to complete the service so the engine was supported (per the instructions I was following) by a 2x4 under the oil pan held up my the jack..

Thoughts?
Mine is just a bolt with no washer, and I've had it out 4 times now with no leaks.

My leaks have been from the camshaft sensor o-ring being fried. Valve cover gasket just being exposed to heat too long, and oil pan seal near the exhaust bracket. And the PCV valve grommet.

I found that certain brands of valve cover gaskets are better than others. And using a plastic razor blade to clean up the surfaces, and RTV in the corners gets me 2 or 3 years of no leaking. I'm wondering if my last valve cover gasket install is just a dry install and no RTV.

I solved the PCV grommet leak and oil pan leak finally, which I should go back to my post and update it.

I resealed my oil pan 2 times and changed the PCV grommet 2 times now. It ended up being the engine oil I was using. I won't go into details about it because it was discussed in length with AMC. But I conclude today that it was because I was using Racing oil and the personality of the oil changed after 3 or 4 months of use becoming thicker and creating too much crankcase pressure. Now I use the Walmart SuperTech 5w-20 Synthectic and no more leaks anymore, and the engine runs way better now.
 
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