Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey yall. ive always worked on chevys from 1930-1985 i have never worked on a FWD car at all just woundering if you think ill beable to do this stuff myself i havent got to lookin it over yet. the mods i wanna do for now are..

cold air intake,AEM cam gears,timing belt and underdrive pully.

also does anyone know were i could buy a header that'll fit a ATX 02 focus se?

oh and i keep hering people say "resinator delete" wtf is this? it appears they take off part of the exaust, we use to take the cat's off. is that what they mean? sorry for soundin retarded i dont have much nolage with these newer cars lol thanks!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
im pretty new to the whole focus thing myself, but the resinator is after the flex pipe and before the muffler. from what the guys said down at monro all it does it reduce volume. you can cut it off and put a straight pipe on it. im in Pennsylvania and the emmision test is just a visual, meaning they have to be able to see all the pieces so we just cut them off, gut them out, shove a pipe through them, and put them back on. hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
oh and what gaskets/seals will i need to change the cams? and i dont have to drop the engine for this correct? there looks to be a nuff room. im just trying to upgrade the not to difficult stuff that wont keep the car down long as its my daily driver/toy/project. lol [ffrocks]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
sorry but that ones outta my league. i have a svt so it gets up and goes however i do plan on moddin the engine more but i usually try to do alot of research and if im in doubt them i take it somewhere and let them deal with it lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
same here lol.....i was always a muscle car guy until gas priced went through the roof. so had to decide on 30something mpg or 6blocks to the gallon. focus won lol
 

·
Aurelius Pardus
Joined
·
26,535 Posts
you will be spewing not so friendly words at that thing... why do you think Im putting a carbed 350 in mine? haha.

well anyway if you want cam gears you will have to remove the cam cover. not to bad, but unless you want to replace the whole belt Id recommend marking the hell out of it with white out or whatever you use. mark at each gear, on or across the belt and on the head. if it doesnt fall off the crank and you can get to the tensioner, it should be fine...

but now I see you want to do the timing belt, the passenger side mount has to come off, and the same with anything the crank pulley.

shouldnt need to do any gaskets unless you do a water pump, remove the valve cover and or remove the cams.


Not sure why people call the muffler the resonator.... the resonator is the box looking ugly thing at the very back. Id really replace the exhaust tubing too if youre gonna do any header or cam gears, just cause its the size of a pea, stock.

Also, welcome to FF!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks alot for all the info!! but wait did i hear that correctly? ur puttin a 350 into a focus? damn man thats gonna be a rocket ship.... pics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
lol no....my plan is to drop in a supercharged v8 out of a mustang.......i dont wanna be that guy who wraps his car around a telephone pole.....i wanna take the whole damn pole out lol.......no problem man if i can help i will if i cant then i wont bs you lol
 

·
Aurelius Pardus
Joined
·
26,535 Posts
not you, me. lol.

I dont really have any pics of anything interesting yet... just an empty engine bay and a few pictures of a dirty 700r4 and a 350. I just picked them up today... this week Ill be working on it more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
oh lol my bad i didnt see your post mikebontoft. i thought he was asking me.....so your resonator is on the back? my exhaust has the cat, flex pipe, resonator, then pipes all the way back to the muffler.
 

·
I need BOOOOST!!!!!!
Joined
·
6,125 Posts
ill be adding to this over the day probably, every time i come back to glance at this post i think of something new i want to add to it. dont know why but i feel like writing a book today...

i just gotta put my $.02 in. if you have basic mechanical know-how you should be able to handle the focus. everything on the car is pretty strait-forward and makes logical sense for the most part. if you are going to put cams in it with a stock head you should not go over stage 2 cams. anything higher than that and you will have 2 problems to overcome. 1 the stock head will choke because it wont flow enough air to keep up with it bigger cams and 2 you will be pushing the limits of the rpms that the stock oil pump can handle. the stock oil pump doesnt really doesnt like higher than 7400rpm and the more aggressive the cams you get the higher in the rpms you will make peak power. if you want to push rpms past that you will need to go to a drysump with billet c-f-m oil pump gear. stage 2 cams peak out at about 7000 for peak power and stage 3 peak out right at 7400.

underdrive pulleys are a waste of money. just my opinion and people will fight tooth and nail on this forum saying that they are God's gift to the focus while others say you just throw your money away when you buy them. i say it doesnt matter who is right because either way its a waste of money. you pay a nice chunk of money for a part that might snag 1-2whp when you could have put that torwards something that will make some real HP like a SVT header.

since you are new i will give you a run down on the best mods to make to the engine for actual dyno proven power increase.

SVT header conversion
SVT air box and snorkel with K&N filter
2.5 inch or larger flex pipe back exhaust
de-cat or high flow cat
stage 2 cams for a stock head and stage 3 for P&P head with stock oil pump. with dry sump and billet gear get the biggest cams you can find.
if you can swing it ford racing has the best bang for your buck on P&P heads.
nitrous

anything else is either extremely expensive and not for the beginner or does not work well enough to have the time wasted to fool with. expensive and not for the beginner: turbo, internals, re-gearing the trans, supercharger, etc. things that are a waste of time: plug wires, coil pack, underdrive pulleys, shorty header, helium/nitrogen tire air, "special" motor oils like amsoil and royal purple, power steering and A/C delete, etc.

the SVT header is the BEST header available on the market for the zetec focus. 15whp proven increase. any other header on the market will be extremely lucky to even get half of that in a gain. to use the SVT header you need the header obviously, SVT flex pipe and cat, header wrap and/or SVT power steering line. the SVT setup puts alot of heat on the standard zetec power steering line and can cause the line to burst which is why it is suggested to swap in the SVT line. however if you are generous with the header wrap then you dont need to worry about it. and wrapping the header is a good idea anyway. it keeps engine bay heat down which helps keep intake temps down which brings power up. it also keeps the exhaust temps higher which means the exhaust flows better and faster which means more power there too.

run 2.5 inch or larger exhaust. the SVT header makes better power clear across the rpm range from 2000 up to 7500 with open header or no exhaust whatsoever. so it basically means that anything after the header is going to be a restriction if anything so the better you can make the exhaust flow the better you will be off. getting a high flow cat or removing the cat all together goes along with removing as many exhaust restrictions as possible. get a local muffler shop to fabricate the exhaust for you and it will be alot cheaper than ordering it online. my favorite mom and pop combo for at home exhaust fabrication is a dynomax muffler and cherry bomb 28in glass pack combo from autozone used as muffler and resonator. it sounds very good IMO. set me back about $200 for the exhaust and mufflers.

the STOCK SVT intake has been dyno proven by me to perform as well as the AEM cold air intake. i also tested it against the AEM short ram and the iceman intake. i wish i had a volant handy with the scoop to test it with but unfortunately i did not. i believe it would have done very well. i made all the dyno runs with the hood DOWN and the fan blowing into the front of the car only AFTER beginning the run so as to simulate actual real life driving conditions as closely as possible. the AEM CAI did well with the hood up with the fan constantly blowing to keep it cool and it did indeed outperform the SVT intake like this. but when we shut the hood and the engine bay temps went up the metal intake piping heated up considerably driving intake temps up and causing a loss of power. the rubber/plastic intakes keep head sink away from intake air much better and are much more consistent. the order of best intake to worst intake in real world condidtions were SVT air box with K&N filter and SVT snorkel, iceman, AEM CAI, factory zetec air box with K&N and factory zetec snorkel, AEM short ram, and "ghetto" short ram which uses a cone filter on the end of the factory intake tube where it is supposed to go into the factory air box. the results with the hood up and the fan constantly blowing were AEM CAI, AEM short ram, SVT air box, iceman, and ghetto short ram and zetec air box were so close that i might as well say they were the same. this is all from memory so there could be some discrepancy as to the order of the lower ranks but the top 3 are correct and in order and the ghetto short ram was garbage every time without fail.

dont let the thought of nitrous scare you. alot of people associate nitrous with things like the boogey man, osama bin laden, the color purple, grenaded engines, and michael jackson. but the stuff is very safe and easy to use so long as you dont go nuts with it. with nitrous you could literally DOUBLE your hp for under a grand. there is not a single other mod on the market for the focus than can come close to that ratio of $$$ spent to power gained. you can pick up a bare bones wet nitrous kit for under $500 pretty easy. get a RPM window switch that will only allow the nitrous to spray between specific rpms, and a A/F ratio cutoff switch that will shut the nitrous system down if the engine starts to lean out. you will also need a A/F ratio gauge and a tune. if you get all the bells and whistles like bottle heater, remote bottle opener, pretty purge kit, dual stage and things of that such you might be looking at $1000 for the whole nitrous setup before the tune. a good nitrous tune from tom will run about $550 including the cost of the flasher which you will get which is an awesome tool for anyone to have. you can check read and clear check engine light codes (DTCs) you can adjust the rev limiter and speed governor, set up a 2 step, adjust at what temp the radiator fans kick on, calibrate your speedo for different size wheels and tires, and several other things that im sure im forgetting about. and did i mention that tom will give free tune updates for as long as you own the car afterwards? if you change something with your engine setup your old tune isnt perfect anymore. tom will update it for free. however if you add a supercharger or turbo kit you have to pay to upgrade to a boost tune. at which point you can still get free tune updates after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
if you have basic mechanical know-how you should be able to handle the focus. everything on the car is pretty strait-forward and makes logical sense for the most part. if you are going to put cams in it with a stock head you should not go over stage 2 cams. anything higher than that and you will have 2 problems to overcome. 1 the stock head will choke because it wont flow enough air to keep up with it bigger cams and 2 you will be pushing the limits of the rpms that the stock oil pump can handle. the stock oil pump doesnt really doesnt like higher than 7400rpm and the more aggressive the cams you get the higher in the rpms you will make peak power. if you want to push rpms past that you will need to go to a drysump with billet c-f-m oil pump gear. stage 2 cams peak out at about 7000 for peak power and stage 3 peak out right at 7400.


thanks alot for that cam info! i definitly dont wanna rev the piss outta this little thing, its got 80,000 on it and runs perfect and ide like to not blow it up lol do they sell RV cams for lower powerband power for these like they do the V8's? thanks.


and that is very intresting with the v8 into the focus ill have to keep an eye on that one! this things bound to blow some day *evil smile*
 

·
I need BOOOOST!!!!!!
Joined
·
6,125 Posts
not really that im aware of. i have not come across any cams that stuck in my memory that made their power increase in the low and mid range rpms. just for the record even if you get stage 5 cams you are still going to get a power increase in the low and mid range rpms. it just wont be nearly as much as the power increase in the high rpm range. it is a common misconception that people think you loose power on the bottom end with mods like that simply because the power increase on the top end is so dramatic while the bottom and mid range is not.

oh and i think im done editing my epic book post btw. if i have anything more to add i will make another post. if you can keep your eyes open long enough you may want to read through it tho.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
well i have a svt, so what your pretty much saying is that i could benefit from adding a stage 2 cam or is that only for non svt? also what about the whole throtel/throtelbody spacer? i can get a spacer for $40 is it worth it or should i just spend the $40 on beer for the cam swap?
 

·
I need BOOOOST!!!!!!
Joined
·
6,125 Posts
ah!!! that is one that i forgot about. throttle body spacers are worthless unless you use them to mount a nitrous solenoid. but alone they are junk. if you can get one for $40 then buy it and sell it to me because i actually would like to have one for that specific purpose so i dont have to drill my intake.

stock SVT cams are equivalent to about stage 3 cams. they dont have the lope at idle like a standard zx3 would with equivalent cams because the SVT has VCT. (variable cam timing) so no you would not benefit much from upgrading cams in the SVT. pretty much all you can do with the SVT is run bigger exhaust, de-cat/HFC, better air filter (K&N), and if you are feeling squirrely snag a larger TB. the zetec TB (throttlebody) is about 53mm X 57mm if memory serves me. and there are 65mm TBs readily available for it. the svt has 67mm TBs available i think. i cannot remember for sure for it. i may be thinking of the duratec. the larger throttle body doesnt do anything for actual power though. it is purely for improving throttle response. it is very nice to have as well. a tune usually helps liven the SVT's up alot from what i understand. the factory tuning on them is very very modest.
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top