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FF Cleaning Squad
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Discussion Starter #1
If you dont want to read the whole thing there is a problem summary I am giving to ford near the bottom of the thread.


Ok so I was driving home tonight and my battery light came on, I was like WTF? So i watched and it then turned off. So THEN about a half a mile down the road it comes back on and the headlights then dim. It kept doing this(battery on and off and lights dimming and coming back) for about 2 miles. THEN as I was driving the lights finally stayed at their standard brightness, and now the odometer and trip goes out but the gauges were still lit and working I was like WTF? So now I am really pissed and the battery light is still on, and the interior light pops on for no F-ing reason. I reach up turn it off and was a little creeped out, I was not sure I would get home. I get about a mile away from the house and my gauges SHUT DOWN like I turned the car off but they were still lit so they had power. They popped right back up did the gauge sweep, and I looked at my trip meter and it was not reset. Now the trip is back up the battery light is still on and the car starts just fine after turning it off.



Its easy to say I am REALY pissed b/c as the title says it has 12,000 miles, no engine mods, a strut bar that been on since 5000 miles other than that I have a VF trans mission mount and a FS exhaust all have been on for a long time.

Please help, b/c its Friday and the service center does not open until Monday, I need to go to work this week end too.


Thanks
Jon
 

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613 Posts
check battery terminals for corrosion
possibly alternator
but lights coming on,
specially if the switch was flipped
then it sounds like you have a ghost and need to call a witchdoctor
i sugest
billywitchdoctor.com
he works mainly with chickens
but he might be able to help you
jk
hope it last you till monday, then get that bia in the stealership
early and give 'em heck
 

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Mtn. Dew
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You should check the sky for UFO's.

I second checking the battery terminals both for corrosion and to make sure they are on tight. Check for any loose wires under hood.
 

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Id take it in under warranty, mine did that but i was at 60K miles and the alternator went.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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11,959 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
^^

Oh there will be warrenty work, I looked and the battery terminals are on tight and there is no corrosion. The interior light was set on the "door" posistion so if the door opens it comes on but the door adjar light never came on untill the gauges shut down on me. I am thinking alternator, that would explain the drop in RPM like it does when i come to stops ever since I bought the car but that does not explain the interior light coming on.

Thanks and any more info is appreciated, I will keep you all posted.

Jon
 

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Sounds like the ALTERNATOR if you can test that and see your draw coming off it and if it has affected the BATTERY.

I have nothing in TSB's for you about that but a Vin would help getting some more info. But if anything just go bitch to the dealer.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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11,959 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
DJ Lukdogg said:
But if anything just go bitch to the dealer.

I already got an appointment for that on Monday.

On my way to work

So I got in my car today to leave for work and the needles are floating the tach is at 1100, and the speedo is at 0. So I start the car and the needles jump up and then they settle to the correct position where a cold car should they then shut down and freeze where they are I drive to the gas station shifting by sound and go with traffic b/c I have no idea how fast i was going or at what RPM. I get to the station and when I start to hit the brakes my interior light comes on the gauges start to go at the correct places and they then die again. So I now pull into a parking spot and the gauges come back, so I decide to pull out and the second I do they are out again. So I continue and come to a stop before pulling out, while hitting the brake they come back up.

So now I am watching when i hit the brakes my interior light comes on, the gauges shoot up and work for 5 sec and then die again. Anyway I get to work and the gauges have now been working and the battery light is staying off. I pull in and it like nothing was wrong I cant get it to do anything it was doing, I will find out tonight if its possible to make this happen b/c the headlights are pulling power.

I will keep you posted with what I find.
Jon
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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11,959 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
This is strike one, if its a lemon then I will more than likly get the MR-S I originaly wanted or maybe a ST. [dunno]





DJ Lukdogg said:
Post your VIN when you can Jon

ill try and help as much as possible.
I will go out side and get it now, I will send it PM.
 

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This is the best i could do.

18784 2006 MULTIPLE VEHICLES - GAS ENGINE VEHICLES WITH HIGHER THAN NORMAL IDLE SPEEDS
SOME 2006 GAS ENGINE EQUIPPED VEHICLES WITH LESS THAN 50 STARTS, OR LESS THAN 5 CONTINUOUS MILES OF DRIVING BETWEEN STARTS, MAY EXHIBIT HIGHER THAN NORMAL ENGINE IDLE SPEEDS. THIS IS A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC, SO DO NOT ATTEMPT REPAIR. AFTER 5 CONSECUTIVE MILES OR 50 STARTS, THE IDLE SHOULD RETURN TO NORMAL, REFER TO THE PCED FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 08/16/2005

18946 2000-2006 MULTIPLE VEHICLES - SPEEDOMETER ACCURACY - SERVICE TIP
SOME 2000-2006 VEHICLES MAY DISPLAY THE INDICATED SPEED ON THE SPEEDOMETER TO BE SLIGHTLY HIGHER THAN ACTUAL SPEED. AT AN ACTUAL VEHICLE SPEED OF 60 MPH, THE SPEEDOMETER COULD INDICATE 58 TO 64 MPH. THE INDICATED SPEED RANGE IS BIASED HIGH TO COMPENSATE FOR SYSTEM TOLERANCES AND TIRE VARIATION, BUT DOES NOT AFFECT ODOMETER ACCURACY. IF THE ERROR EXCEEDS THESE LIMITS, CHECK FOR CONFIGURATION ERRORS WITHIN THE MODULE THAT PROCESSES THE VSS (I.E. TIRE SIZE AND AXLE RATIO IN THE PCM MEMORY), OR INCORRECT TIRE SIZE ON THE VEHICLE (I.E. WHEELS/TIRES CHANGED).
EFFECTIVE DATE: 11/18/2005

05-23-13
2006 FOCUS - MINOR HESITATION/SURGE AT STEADY STATE CRUISE 30 TO 50 MPH (48 TO 80 KM/H)
SOME 2006 FOCUS VEHICLES, EQUIPPED WITH THE 2.0L NON-PZEV ENGINE AND 4F27E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE, MAY EXHIBIT A MINOR HESITATION AND/OR SURGE AT A STEADY STATE CRUISE BETWEEN 30 TO 50 MPH (48 TO 80 KM/H) WITH NO DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) PRESENT IN THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM). REPROGRAM THE PCM TO THE LATEST LEVEL USING WDS RELEASE B39.14 AND HIGHER OR B40.2 AND HIGHER. THIS NEW CALIBRATION IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE B40 CD. CALIBRATION FILES MAY ALSO BE OBTAINED AT WWW.MOTORCRAFT.COM. NOTE: THE VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION (VECI) DECAL CAN BE CHECKED TO CONFIRM IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH THE PZEV OR STANDARD VERSION OF THE 2.0L ENGINE. IF EQUIPPED WITH THE PZEV ENGINE, "PZEV" WILL BE LISTED CLEARLY ON THE VECI DECAL. ONLY PZEV ENGINES ARE EQUIPPED WITH A SECONDARY AIR INJECTION (AIR) PUMP.
See TSB for complete details
EFFECTIVE DATE: 11/14/2005
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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Discussion Starter #12
^^
Yea I figured that, I sent you back the PM with what you wanted.


I just hope I can get the damn thing to do it for ford.
 

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What you wrote me in the PM i would Bring that same description to the dealer and just give them the time to do it right. Its your car and your money i would be getting so pissed over this.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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Discussion Starter #14
haha

You have no idea, but the thing is the service manager and I have been friends since before he even started at ford so I know he will be watching out for me, thats how I got the appointment in for first thing monday when they are closed all weekend. LOL


I will give what I wrote to him and let them figure it out, I am not in a real big hury but I will be asking for a rental car b/c of this, I just hate leaving my car in places like that, they dont love it like I do and they will not care if it gets scratched up and stuff.
 

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If you want to play it smart and be anal like me take pics of your car detailed up front one day before you bring it in or on that day before you bring it in to prove there are no scratches or damage. As well of the interior since they will most likely rape your interior on the instrument panel.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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11,959 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
^^
I am SO glad you suggested that I will make sure to take them tonight, I will give my car a good bath and make sure I get a bunch of pics.

Thanks.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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11,959 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Continuous Voltage regulator.


Thats what Gop114 (Dell) says it sounds like, what do you guys think?

I really hope its just that simple, and not a short in my electrical system.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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11,959 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Day 3 LOSS IN POWER!!

So today I am driving and its all good for about 3 miles, then the usual happens Gauges shut down and I just keep going. So I was about 5 miles from work and in 3rd gear and I go to speed up and it just sits there, there is NO acceleration so I thought it might be going to slow for that gear and I go to second start to let off the clutch and feel the revs start to climb and the car slows down. I put it back in third and relise its NOT the RPM its the motor that wont pull. So I let it go and as i get close to work there is this turn I start in first and it always pulls around the corner in second and this time there was NO PULL so I am sure the RPM was at prime point and I am positive I was doing the same as always and it was not going so now my motor is being affected any more ideas?

Thanks
Jon
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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Discussion Starter #19
Problem detail


Friday night:

1 Well the battery light came on and off once first.

2. then it came back on and the lights started surging with random seconds between them and the battery light then went off again.

3 the battery light came back on along with the interior light it then went normal for the most part the battery light still on but no surges or strange behavior.

4 I then see the Odometer and trip screen blank out, but the gauges were still lit and working.

5 I come to a stop the gauges shut down for a split second and then reset with a gauge sweep. The trip and odom. is back and the trip is not reset to zero.

6 I get home turn the car off and then start it back no problem.

Saturday:

1 I get in the car to see if it will start before I leave for work, it starts with no issue so I cut it off.

2 i get in my car to leave and the tach gauge is sitting on 1100 and twitching, I turn the key the gauges start tapping the bottom and then i start the car and they go to normal cold start position.

3 I go to back out and the entire gauge shuts down and the needles freeze.

4 and i drive to a gas station, I start to apply the brake and the gauges come back and shut off again.

5 I pull in a parking spot hit the bakes and they are back up, So i go to back out again and the freeze up.

6 I drive about 4 miles and come to a traffic light and stop the gauges then work and there is no battery light.

7 i drive the rest of the 9 miles to work and no issue or battery lights.

Saturday Night:

1 same things starts happening and it seems to happen sooner when I have to use the headlights.

2 Driving as normal with the gauges out I notice my blinkers or my brake lights in the tail lights do not work unless the gauges are fully operational, but my third brake light works still.

3 I get home and turn off the car.

Sunday morning:

1 I am driving to work and the gauges shut off again and i just continue.

2 I have to slow down due to traffic and go to accelerate and the car bogs down.

3 thinking the car was in to high of a gear I down shift to second (from third) and start to feel the RPM rise fast before I fully disengauge the clutch I push the clutch back in and go back to third.

4 Now I am having trouble accelerating and the car feels very sluggish

5 I am now entering a turn before I get to work and at this turn I enter in 1st gear and usually pulls through second and then I turn into the driveway. The car will not pull in 2nd gear like normal and I slowly pull into work.
 

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Holy crap dude...your car was FINE Friday! This kind of thing makes m question Ford's ability to maufacture decent cars...
 
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