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Hey Everyone,

I have a 2017 Ford Focus SE 1.0L with just over 98k miles. Recently had an "Oil Pump Belt" go bad and tore up my entire engine and vacuum pump. They are saying that I'm going to need an entire engine swap and vacuum pump. Is there anyone out there that knows anything about this?

Just cant believe that this car has a rubber belt that runs the oil pump, and nothing stopping the engine from running when the belt fails. SMH!!

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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98k is alot of miles for a car thats two years old, you must like driving.
My car turned 4 yesterday and i dont even have half that mileage.

Anywho, the timing belt drives everthing on these motors and is bathed in the motor oil.
So if the belt breaks everything in there likely will.
The oil pump is a variable vane type if i remember correctly.
When the vacuum pump goes it wrecks the motor on these also.
Someone here recently just had the vacuum pump fail on his 1.0 and it wrecked his motor.
So yes, you need a new engine.

What has the dealer said as far as cost or being out of warranty for miles?
 

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OK..........vacuum pump is driven off one cam at back end of it. Oil pump is belt driven too. Anything going wrong there lets both pumps stop but the damage likely comes from valves bent when timing belt lets go or simply jumps. A locking up vacuum pump could shed the timing belt by adding too much load to the cam driving it.

Based on what OP says that's likely what happened. If the timing or oil pump drive belt simply broke the vacuum pump would still be OK. I bet pump went bad first and started dragging cam back hard. If the separate short oil pump belt went bad then the oil light would have come on and time left to save the engine. The shop mentioning the vacuum pump going bad leaked out what likely happened.

Almost 100K miles IS a lot for only two years............I learned a bunch tonight about this crappy little engine, enough to greatly reinforce my previous belief that they were short lived crap motors. Let's see how many of them get to 300K miles like the old zetecs used to all day long.
 

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Oil light came on, and everything quickly went bad. Did not have time to shut it off before it blew.
 

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Timing belt was fine, but I did have codes showing 1 camshaft was forward and the other was retarded.

I bought the vehicle last year, appeared to be owned by an insurance company in Florida. Thought that having high mileage should be fine since it was probably highway miles. Clearly I was wrong.

The mechanic did notice that there is a gouge in the oil pump from something being lodged. I assume a piece of metal. But if thats the case then the oil pump had to have been working when something else went (Im guessing vacuum pump). I believe a piece of metal came from the vacuum pump, when it blew, and the piece found its way to the oil pump, got lodged and caused the oil pump to seize and snap the oil pump belt.

Why would anyone run an oil pump with a rubber belt?

Also, found out that the oil pump belt is a maintenance item. Every 150K Mi. Everyone beware!!

Either way, not good. Need a new motor, vacuum pump and oil pump. Vacuum pump is on some serious backorder (HMMMMMM wonder why that is!!!!)
 

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Your codes say belt jumped, they can do it and show no sign of it.

X2 on the 150K rubber pump drive belt, Ford is working actively now to make sure if their cars go 300K miles you have to pay them to get them there.
 

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Why would anyone run an oil pump with a rubber belt?

Also, found out that the oil pump belt is a maintenance item. Every 150K Mi. Everyone beware!!

Have a look at a dry sump setup, GM runs them in their LS3,LS7 & LS9's in the Z06, ZR1 & Grand sport Vette's, have a look at the Porsche motors as well as all the NASCAR motors......
 

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Thanks Felix, can you please enlighten me as to why you think this problem is happening then? I believe it's the vacuum pump, but would love to hear your thoughts...
 

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blamed it on the belt breaking... im curious to see how many more focus' have this issue with the belt/oil pump/vac pump.... well before the "150k" maintenance schedule... seems like a significant design flaw. they also want to charge around 7k to fix it too... so...
 

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My local mechanic told me that the vacuum pump is not lubricated by the oil pump. Therefore, the vacuum pump should not have been damaged by the oil pump failing.

I do not claim to know everything, but if that is the case, all evidence points toward vacuum pump failing.

I just want to know if others are having the same issue, and hoping that people can shine the light on a manufacturer error.
 

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like i say im curious as to how often this fails as 2017's get close to 70-100k miles... which is obviously no where close to the 150k ford says
 

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Having worked on vacuum pumps on a number of things I'm gonna say that they just tend to break or lock up similar to the old smog pumps used for pollution control; it's in the nature of the beast. Pumping air up or down in pressure, the environment is hot and dry and sometimes dirty yet pump vanes have to seal to make the pumping work. They at some point lose enough material to back way off in efficiency, or they simply break off pieces of vane or lock up bearings when they get tired of it. Both the latter bring the part down instantly with little warning. If anyone has ever pulled apart an old smog pump you'll know what I'm talking about. Vacuum pumps are often the same way inside, dry dirt ingested wears them out.
 

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2016 Ford Focus with 65K had the same issue and to drop a new ecoboost engine will cost around 7800 dollars, the car is only worth 8200, so is it worth it and yet we just keep expanding our carbon footprint. What about all those cars that never get sold and are stashed away in some desolate place. I'm sure there are enough engines rotting in this vast wasteland.
 

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2016 Ford Focus with 65K had the same issue and to drop a new ecoboost engine will cost around 7800 dollars, the car is only worth 8200, so is it worth it and yet we just keep expanding our carbon footprint. What about all those cars that never get sold and are stashed away in some desolate place. I'm sure there are enough engines rotting in this vast wasteland.
Got in touch with corporate Ford and there is no program for any coverage assistance. Basically they told me to pound salt. I have been a Ford owner all my driving life, which is better than 40 years and for any automotive company to do this is appalling. I have a Ford Fusion in my driveway if anyone wants to buy it for I can't even stand seeing the round oval, talk about customer retention!
 

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I spent 40 years Ford too and feel your pain. I quit after seeing them build more and more stuff to break on purpose. I could fix most of it for pennies but realized I was fixing 10X more on the newer cars I was on the older and why? The nuisance breakage issues alone are enough to make one jump ship, I went to Nissan and now looking like they do nearly the same thing. So far I haven't got sacked yet but BEWARE their CVT trans in any form, they break so easily you won't believe it.

I bought 3 Fords in pairs of same model (6 cars) to see how they made them cheaper and more full of parts that break from year to year, I never bought identical years. I wanted to see how they evolve, it was not pretty. If a part was metal, it turned into lighter metal then plastic. Then it would get a lightening hole in it that next year got even bigger. The holes were often later relocated to places of higher stress to make them break faster. Then you saw more and more combined parts to make sure you didn't get out of the dealer parts dept. without spending $200 to get what you could formerly get for $5 but the part is now combined with an assembly that you don't need. The crucial high breakage parts were always combined with the ones that they never can sell as they don't break.

It finally got so old I couldn't take it any more.
 
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