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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title says, my oil pan hole for the drain plug is stripped. Plug is grabbing enough to hold oil (for now) but I don't like it and want to fix it. Looking for ideas and experiences with the multitude of options to fixing the problem. So far I'm looking at over sized drain plugs, re-tapping for a bigger plug, heli-coil, and time-serts. Pretty much that list is from cheapest to most expensive. The time-serts are most expensive (kit costs $120 [ohcrap]) but looks to be the best and most durable solution. Could also replace the pan, I guess. Any thoughts on how hard that is? Looks easy enough to get to everything but if there is a bunch of extra stuff that has to be done while changing the pan, i'm less likely to do it.

Thanks,
 

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A new oil pan on Tasca Parts is $117 and shipping is quite inexpensive. If you end up excluding heli-coil from your list of options there's no reason not to put a new oil pan on because it costs the same as your other option at that point.
 

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$37 from Rock Auto.

Really see no need to dick with anything but replacing it.
 

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$37 from Rock Auto.

Really see no need to dick with anything but replacing it.
Lol I don't know why I didn't think to check there. I buy from them all the time!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm seeing $41 on rock auto. It says that it's for European models. Also that pan looks like stamped steel and not the same configuration as the cast aluminum unit.... Thoughts?
 

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Go to NAPA and get a oil pan plug repair kit and fix the hole , I am not a NAPA fan but they do have some odd stuff when you need it , get the good one

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Picked up an single oversize plug that supposedly cuts new threads. Seems to be the most common and cheapest plan. If it doesn't work I'm only out $3 and can still use a time-sert to fix it. All else fails I'll pull the pan and drill/tap it for a 16mm plug.
 

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Picked up an single oversize plug that supposedly cuts new threads. Seems to be the most common and cheapest plan. If it doesn't work I'm only out $3 and can still use a time-sert to fix it. All else fails I'll pull the pan and drill/tap it for a 16mm plug.
When I worked in a autoshop, we would end up using one about every other week and during my time there we never had any issues with any of them. They work pretty well and were by far the easiest solution in most cases.
 

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They work pretty well but only a couple times then back where you started since they only cut like half threads. I sold scads of them to the tire/oil change shops around us, maybe 10 a week, those guys were butchers. They only cared if oil did not leak that one time, customer was on his own after that. A few customers came in asking about the plug type as they were not aware of that on the car, and when pointed out the oil change shop probably did that they would get mad as the part was leaking again and they had to get it fixed.

No way would I tolerate one of those on my car, future failure in the making.
 

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simple fix after you get the plug sorted weather a new pan or the over sised plug works get a Fumoto Oil Plug they have a ball halve in them so you never have to remove your plug ever agian
 

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Boats yes, cars no, too many things flying around under a car to knock that valve open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna try the oversize and since I'm the one that does the service I'm sure will last longer than some grunt in a lube depot. If it leaks after that I'll put in a time-sert and get good steel threads instead of soft aluminum ones. Time will time
 
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