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It doesn't look terribly bad; does it drip on the driveway? I'd see if the bolts are loose, and give them a tweak if they are...
 

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Fairly easy job.....Remove the pan & use a plastic razor blade so you don't nick the alloy pan, you'll find most of the sealant is on the pan side as whatever side you put the sealant on is going to have the most sealant sticking to the surface whether its the pan or engine block. Let it sit up for a while before you add oil. Run around the bolts a few times.
 

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If your keeping it, I'd fix it......Why not repair it now vs later, its another thing if your trading in.
 

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BassMasterCHS,

Clean up the seepage with some mineral spirits and some old terrycloth rags and then, as others suggested, check that the bolts are snug (no gorilla power needed for these). With all the heat cycles, it is not surprising that the pan has started to seep a bit so checking bolt tightness will likely help to stop the seepage. Once the area around the seam is clean, you can see how quickly the oil seeps out.

HTH,

Chris
 

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If you change the oil pan gasket, use a plastic blade like felix states. Do not use a razor blade. Also, when you remove the oil pan, use a plastic device to loosen the pan around the seal until it totally loosens. Here is a great tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N2LFMA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your oil pan requires the proper torque. And in the proper sequence. You will need to make 2 passes with torque. Get a book on your car or look it up on this forum. Get a 1/4" torque wrench set.
 
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