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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

First time doing anything with an oil pan. Zetecs look like a right pain but these Duratecs look pretty straightforward.

Other than bolts at the bottom of the block and on the sides connecting to the bell housing, is there anything else I need to loosen/remove? Any major obstacles to getting this thing off?

Also, the dipstick tube. The Haynes manual says to remove it, should I slide the pan off at the bottom or remove the tube from the top before loosening the pan.

Engine stuff kinda makes me nervous, even if it's as simple as the oil pain I guess. But then again, I've been nervous about pretty well every job before, just this one seems pretty critical to the well being of my car.

Thanks in advance.
 

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The tube is only held in by 1 8mm bolt I would just remove it. And don't forget the bolts on the bottom of the front cover, they thread into the pan. Only use a thin bead like it says don't overdo it. Other than that its a breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The tube is only held in by 1 8mm bolt I would just remove it. And don't forget the bolts on the bottom of the front cover, they thread into the pan. Only use a thin bead like it says don't overdo it. Other than that its a breeze.
Thanks,

I'm having a hell of a time getting the tube out or the pan. It was a T30 bolt holding it in. But I can't get it out. Might just pull the pan and try and thread it through the engine bay.
 

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Yeah sorry I replaced mine with an 8mm. The o-ring is probably stuck try and pb blaster it then heat up around where it goes in with a small torch usually they come right out that way. It may be a little awkward trying to thread it out the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm considering replacing that screw as well.

Any idea what the thread pitch is offhand?
I gave it some PB Blaster and it eventually wiggled out. Well, hopefully that's the hard part. Now on to the pan itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, so I've got all the bolts from the pan out, 4 between the pan and bellhousing, the two huge ones that thread up in the bellhousing side of the pan, all the perimeter bolts and the timing chain cover bolts up to and including the ones that old the wire harness in.

I've got a big flathead and there's a nice spot in the front near the oil filter that I can get the head in, but the thing won't budge. Should there be a bit of give? Or is the RTV that strong? I'm worried about giving it a good pull on the screwdriver.

Haynes says to use a scraper to break the seal, but can we even get a scraper under this thing?
 

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RTV's that strong.

A soft blow hammer to tap on it all the way around can help loosen, along with tapping on the front & rear bottom side to help break one side free (don't go pounding on the large flat areas, just flanges & corners).

Careful with any prying to avoid breakage or scarring of the mating surface. Haynes isn't "wrong", but care is needed with a thin, smooth scraper (putty knife) if you try that.

As you can see, it won't move side to side - so the front or rear is the only place to swing one side loose first before lowering all of it.


(moved to General Tech Chat for more looks - repair type question)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks,

The magic of posting here, I also undid the two large bolts between the engine block and the bell housing, lower front.

I found a nice pry point between the bellhousing and the oil pan that allowed me to get a bit of side to side play (about .25mm or so) to get some wiggle room from the bellhousing and it loosened up a lot when i took those two bolts out.

I was working on another pry point, really close to the oil filter adapter, and as soon as I had loosened up those tranny/block bolts, the pan pried right off with almost no resistance. I think I'll get some shots of the pry points I used when i have everything back on, in case someone else needs help. Will probably take pics of the assembly too, so I can make a pictoral guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, one last question,

Given the nature of the space I'm working with, I've got to make my RTV bead around the mating surfaces. Most of this is on the top of the pan, however, the side that mates with the timing chain cover, is a bit of an enigma.

I'm supposed to mount the pan with the bead, but with as little movement as possible, but there is practically no lateral movement to the pan, is there a way to get it mated without scraping off the bead on the side of the pan that mates to the timing chain cover without scraping off the bead? Should I be able to kind of shimmy it in at an angle to mate the corner?
 

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Been a while since I did the BSD delete & removed the pan.

Smearing the bead of RTV evenly on the pan I remember for sure, and keeping it toward the trans. end until near seated was part of the deal IIRC. No room for "angles" more of a slide straight up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll try that.

Will get back to it tomorrow,
Cleaning the oil pan was a pain because it was old sealant, sitting at a parts place forever.

The crankcase was a bit easier, in ways, but the cramped working area and the fact that my hands are exhausted (riding my motorcycle non stop for 2 weeks, without giving my hands and feet time to get used to their new roles) has made this fun.

At least this seems like it's going to be easier getting everything together than it was getting it all apart...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I just wanted to update,
Got the job done, and no leaks since Sunday afternoon.

I wasn't able to get meaningful pics as there was a bit of a hurry to get it done. I'll have the car up this weekend again, and I'll get some decent pics and put up a detailed step by step to make it easier for others.

I ended up with an oil pan from a 2008 2.0 Duratec, there are some slight differences in the appearance but the mating surfaces and the bolt patterns are identical. Not sure if that's been documented, but they seem to be compatible.

Anyway, got a busy weekend coming up, replacing the control arms, pads, rotors and rear engine mount.
 
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