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Discussion Starter #1
Im getting a FREE catback SVT exhaust from a friend. I will be purchasing the OBX race headers. I have read several threads but still have some questions for this particular mod.

1) What size is this collector on the OBX pipe?

2) Do I need a O2 sensor cheater or extension?

3)Do I need a flex pipe? Recommended Brand?

4)What size is the SVT exhaust pipe 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" that would mate to the flexpipe?

5) Anything else you can throw in for advice
 

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You'll need an O2 cheater with the OBX race header, the bungs on the header are pretty much in the same place that they are on the cat. I believe the OBX 4-2-1 has 1.625" collectors with a 2.25" outlet flange. You don't need a flexpipe, but it doesn't hurt, I'd get one to match the width of your catback (or if its stock SVT you could just get a 2.25".) Its definitely the best bang for your buck as far as headers go.
 

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Titan1969 said:
Im getting a FREE catback SVT exhaust from a friend. I will be purchasing the OBX race headers. I have read several threads but still have some questions for this particular mod.

1) What size is this collector on the OBX pipe?

2) Do I need a O2 sensor cheater or extension?

3)Do I need a flex pipe? Recommended Brand?

4)What size is the SVT exhaust pipe 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" that would mate to the flexpipe?

5) Anything else you can throw in for advice
Header. You only have one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Re: OBX Headers mated to SVT catback

dazada said:
Header. You only have one.
Yes I know. Im a former blown dodge challenger owner...that had 2. I keep forgetting[V] .

Another item has come up. The dipstick, can I use my stock Zetec one or do I need another? I see some people are getting another stick?

The PS line... will there be enough slack to tie it away from the header? I hear some people have melt theirs. I plan on paintng heat shield and putting it back on.
 

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The dipstick and PS lines don't need to be relocated with the OBX 4-2-1 header...I've been running the 4-2-1 header for about 30,000 miles now with no ill effects and I didn't relocate either.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SkaAddict said:
The dipstick and PS lines don't need to be relocated with the OBX 4-2-1 header...I've been running the 4-2-1 header for about 30,000 miles now with no ill effects and I didn't relocate either.
Fantastic just what I needed to hear.

I cant tell you want a pain in the arse the headers were on my dodge. They wrapped under the starter and cooked it quite often. Hot motor=no starter until it cooled[V] .
 

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I have the same set up that you do. You will need to slot the holes on the flex so that the catback will bolt up as the SVT exhaust has a wider bolt spacing. I also am having no problems with the obx header either.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
blk3dr said:
I have the same set up that you do. You will need to slot the holes on the flex so that the catback will bolt up as the SVT exhaust has a wider bolt spacing. I also am having no problems with the obx header either.
So I may need a flex? Well Ill get the exhaust from the guy this week and that'll tell me what I need. I'll bolt up the header out of the car first, and see what the SVT bolt spacing looks like... Thanks for the info![thumb]
 

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You don't need a flex...its totally optional. Some people say that retaining the stock flex section doesn't make any (dyno-proven) difference, but IMO its common sense; a 14" length of pipe that's 1.875" in diameter is going to restrict the exhaust when the rest of the pipe is 2.25/2.5". You could always just install it as-is and worry about the flex at a later time.

BTW, can you weld? Because if you can't you're going to have to drop the entire rear suspension assembly to get the SVT pipe in place. Whoever you're getting it from probably cut the pipe just before it crosses over the rear suspension to get it out, so you're going to have to weld it back together in place under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes I have a welder. Good to know...thanks again. Im hoping to get going by next weekend. Ill post up my pain and pleasure installing this. Cant be harder than dealing with a 30 year car restoration I did...less rust![^]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
cutting hole open...

blk3dr said:
I have the same set up that you do. You will need to slot the holes on the flex so that the catback will bolt up as the SVT exhaust has a wider bolt spacing. I also am having no problems with the obx header either.
I recieved my flexpipe and as you already know the spacing is different on the SVT exhaust. After I slot it my concern is for the bolts not holding the pipes together squarely. I could use a thick washer to prevent this but I thought Id find out what you did to support the flexpipe connection. It appears I will have to totally cut through the end of the bolts hole on the flexpipe flange to make it fit to the SVT flange bolts.
 

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Titan1969 said:
Yes I have a welder. Good to know...thanks again. Im hoping to get going by next weekend. Ill post up my pain and pleasure installing this. Cant be harder than dealing with a 30 year car restoration I did...less rust![^]
Less rust is always a good thing especially here in New England, I'd assume the same in Mi. I've always worked on cars 10+ years old and switching to a 5 year old car is great, some things are rusted, but still very salvageable and useable. You'll have a great time working on the Focus.[thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OBX and SVT done!

Ahhhh the sweet sound of success. Exhaust sounds incredible! Deep tone. I have mated an OBX Header and FC Flexpipe to an SVT exhaust. Took about 5 hours...I wasnt going to rush.

I had a few panic attacks along the way but it was wayyyyyyy easier than the full suspension I put on last weekend.

The service manual makes no mention of the large exhaust recirculating nut on the stock exhuast. I got if off with just a large set of vise grips[^]

I had soaked all the nuts for a week with PB Blaster. Thats a definite must do[thumb] Most all the bolts came of without stripping the heads. I couldnt remove the flexpipe to straight back exhuast pipe...it was really rotted so I just hacked it off.

Due to numerous posts about the power sterring line getting smoked I resued the heat shield. I used the center bolt on the valve cover as my mounting position. I then cut 2 slots in the heat shield and trimmed, as necessary, enough material so the metal flap I now had would fit in the slot on the valve cover. Then I drilled a hole thru the shield flap, ran the bolt thru back into the cover and its holding just fine. It looks like a$$ on the motor due to its age but as long as is serves its purpose I dont mind.

Total cost $315!!!

Thanks to everyone feedback and advice on the board. You guys and gals make it much easier for me[thumb]
 
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