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Discussion Starter #1
Ford Focus UK model
2000 registered 1.8 diesel CL non aircon

The car cut out and would not restart.
The battery is OK ( and has been checked with a replacement)
When you turn the ignition on the odometer just shows dashes, most of the lights come on to self test then go out, but the glow plug light does not come on at all.

When you turn the key to start, the engine does not turn over, the relays do not click, and the PATs red light continues to flash at the normal rate.

A snap on diagnostic tool and Ford IDS diagnostic testers will not communicate with the car.

I took the car to a Ford dealer and they diagnosed that the PCM (ECU) was faulty but it would cost £1,500 to replace it !

I took the car away and I have bought and tried two PCMs that match the serial numbers exactly, but these have not worked and I get exactly the same fault symptoms.

I have checked the data bus (SCP) between the diagnostic socket (DLC Data Link Connector), the PCM and the dashboard and both lines have continuity.

Fuse F20 and F9 are OK.

The PCM has 12v at pin 55 (red wire)

BUT, I am not getting 12v at pin 97 of the PCM gn/ye wire or pin 1 of the PATs module (gn/bk wire ) when the ignition is switched on.

I have checked the Power hold relay. (checked by swapping it with another one).

I have 12v to pin 1 and pin 3, but I do not get 12v out from pin 5 when the ignition is switched on.

I think pin 2 should be the earth, but I do not get continuity to earth when the ignition switch is at 0 or switched on to position 2.

The wire from pin 2 of the powerhold relay is shown as bk/bu on the wiring diagram, but is Black and orange in colour. I have traced it out of the battery fuse box but it disappears into the loom and I am not sure where it goes.

The wiring diagram shows it going through S118, then to earth ? at G1.

I am not sure where to test next, should pin 2 go directly to earth, or have I missed something obvious ?

Please help !!
 

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........I took the car away and I have bought and tried two PCMs that match the serial numbers exactly, but these have not worked and I get exactly the same fault symptoms............
You sound very informed on dealing with this issue.

When you tried the two other PCM's did you/were you able to program the keys for each 'new' PCM? Or did you have a key already programmed to each 'new' PCM?

Just swapping out the PCM and using the 'original' key from the 'replaced' PCM without reprogramming the 'new' PCM won't enable the PATs feature.
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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I believe 1998 and newer fords with PATS used PATSII system in which the key memory was stored in the PCM itself and not within a separate module .

If you have access to a ford security tool, PATS should be a type E for that system if it's the same on UK models. You will need to erase the ignition key code and follow the procedure for key relearn.

hope that helped. Sorry if it's not even close.

How does the PATS light flash when you try to crank the engine.... rapidly?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
a_2000-se and mikebontoft thanks for your comments and suggestions.

One of the PCMs I tried came with a programed key, transponder ring and PATs module. I had exactly the same fault with this as I did with the other two PCMs, also the Ford diagnostic tool will not communicate with the PCM so I am pretty certain it is not the key or PCM that is at fault.

The PATs indicator light continues to blink at a constant rate and does not change when I try to start the car. The fault finding guide for this says to check for 12v at pin 1 of the PATs module. I do not get 12v here so I think this is the key.

The reason I do not get 12v at pin 1 of the PATs module is that I am not getting an output from pin 5 of the power hold relay (K13).

The reason I am not getting an output from pin 5 is because there is no earth from pin 2 to trigger the relay.

I thought I had the solution as the wiring diagram shows pin 2 going directly to earth at G1, and I do not have continuity from pin 2 to earth.

BUT, I have followed the wire from Pin 2 and it does not go to earth, it goes back into the PCM at pin 96. This is bad as it is different to the wiring diagram ! ( I ended up stripping back much of the wiring loom to follow this)

There is good continuity of the wire between the PCM and the power hold relay

I suspect that another circuit will feed into the PCM and this then triggers the earth for pin 96. I think this will be an ignition live (position 2) circuit, but I'm not sure and there are 104 wires going into the PCM !

Does anyone know which circuit will trigger this earth ?
 

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DTC P0606
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FWIW, North American ECU pin out for gas engines available here It may offer some clues. You have a UK diesel so I'm afraid you're not likely to find a whole lot of relevant wiring info here on FF; it's not a model sold in NA.
 

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^^^ I was going to mention something similar to that too.

Although I did look at some of the wiring diagrams for the U.S. model and as you mentioned K13-pin 2 shows going directly to G1. G1 is the return to battery negative or reference point - ground.

I couldn't find pin 96 of the PCM on any of the wiring diagrams. It may not be used on the U.S. models.

Have you disconnected the battery and measured the resistance on K13-2 to ground, out of curiosity?
 

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I found this thread. Maybe someone who posted here will get an email reply I posted.

I did the SPI to zetec swap. Here is my issue which sound the same as above?

Had a lock smith come out after the motor swap. Car wouldn't program! His computer said "no communication" or something like that. We double checked all the hoses, connections, etc! Everything looked good. ARRRGGG! Mechanic put his OBDII reader in the OBDII port and got a communication and was able to read no codes, and check all sensors. The OBDII reader worked. So, the port does work and read the ECU or PCM (I think its called a PCM) When you turn the key fwd, the CEL comes on and goes off. So, its reading there too. I called dealer, they said maybe "PATS" or how ever you say it maybe be blocking communication and they need to program it. I thought the lock smith and his fancy looking lap top was doing that? They want $60 to check it out, and will apply it towards a key program which is $60. Sound right? The PATS lights does have a rapid flash when trying to start.
 

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This indicates the PATS system is preventing your car from starting. The ECU is not recognizing the chip in your key.
Thanks for a quick reply. Why couldn't the lock smitch with his laptop looking thing program it/earse it or whatever? His just said no communication. But, mechanic's OBDII reader read it fine. Time to take to the dealer? Will they have better luck or?
 

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Dealer coded the key. It starts. Charge? $60. New issues now that it's starting. On the other thread I have on going.
 

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I see you've solved it. The Ford dealer is usually the best to deal with when it comes to key re-coding.
Its all good there. More issues on the other thread now that its running [:(!]
 

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i have a 2007 ford focus 1.6i hatchback and i have a problem with my car not starting, the battery went flat so i jump started it and drove the car to buy a new battery, two days later the car wont start, no dash lights no crank, i put the car on a diagnostic machine and the fault came as key not responding to ecu, i was then told by ford that the ecu needs repairing or replacing i am not sure whether replacing the or repairing the ecu is going to solve the problem, any ideas to help me.
 

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2 days later after new battery says battery might not be the issue, rather alternator dead and slowly running new battery back down. Kill battery enough and you get fake codes all over the place, PCM cannot work correctly with insufficient power.
 
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