I have an 05 Zx3, she turns over but doesn't even hint at fire. Compression is good, timing is good, pulled plug at night, no spark. I put a special light on fuel injector harness and there is no power to injectors either. Fuel pump is new and it working. Please help.
PATS light acting normal? No fast flashing when cranking? (should go to solid when turned on, then off cranking)
No dashes in the odo instead of miles?
Do any fuse checks yet?
If all above are fine, do you have a scan tool avail. to double check for pending codes & other tests?
BTW - what kind of "timing" check did you do? Not simple on a duratec. Check the crank pulley for turning normally along with the cams? (peek in oil fill)
No dashes crank and cams are turning, pats light is solid, engine management fuse and relay are good, are there any other fuses or relays, could it be a crank sensor or cam sensor? I have sprayed ether and no pop either.
Sorry,my mistake, when key is in the ignition it is solid, when it cranks it goes out. I checked all for the fuses, relays, and the pcm diode. The wiring the to the cps was okay. I'm lost
Update! I hooked a different ecu and tricked it into using a different key so the pats was not freaking out, aaaaand..... dee dee dee dee dee! Nothing... just crank.. still no spark or injectors.
I'm still wondering if you're getting power where needed, do you get any to the coils when the key is on?
Setting the timing is involved, Timing tool pin is officially used to stop the crank at TDC#1 then a bolt to fit is used to lock the crank pulley in position while using the alignment tool to set the new sensor to the notched wheel on that pulley (needs the right distance away & sideways location).
I hooked a multi meter up to the coils and injectors and there is no voltage with the key off. When key is on there is voltage, while cranking the voltage drops
I just looked back at the first post, where you said you "pulled the plug & didn't see spark at night".
If you didn't use a jumper cable from plug base to a good ground, you wouldn't see any spark.
One thing I'm wondering about, there's a small ground lead from the harness at the passenger side of the engine to ground near the shock tower - is that intact?
I will try that tonight with a cable and there is a ground but it's part of the radio filter and thats never beem hooked up for like the past 3 years lol
I hooked it up, bypassing the the filter and it blew a fuse and made my odometer read dashes, hopefully it didn't make my ecu poop, I'm completely stumped. Could an ecu just fry the injector and coil packs circuits or does it just go out completely? I'm thinking that it may be a faulty harness because I hooked my cousins vbt4 up and tricked the pats system and it cranked over with the same results.
Poor connection could be involved, I'm waiting for you to mention a test to prove no spark &/or no injectors working - you haven't mentioned how you determined that.
The voltmeter check sounded like it might be OK, but that is sensitive enough that it can show voltage with a poor connection that won't fire the coils (digital VOM at least).
You had mentioned a "noid" check that was bad at the coils to start with, if that tool was tested on a working car & was OK it would show a lack of adequate current to fire the spark. (I don't trust any tester not proven good after being fooled in the past)
Ah, I see a fresh msg. - that part should be the GEM (General Electronics Module) that controls everything BUT the engine/trans.. Things like lighting & remote locking run through that.
Ah, yes, the endless circle of increasing despair, where they refuse to post back completely results of things you suggest and instead trip over more and more things to confuse themselves even more...............it never stops.
(1) pulling plug wire at night shows no spark if wire more than 1/4" away.
(2) bypasses radio filter, pops fuse yet no resolution on that and betting OP just left it unhooked again. The filter also prevents coil sparking from messing with low voltage PCM signals in the local area.
(3) changes PCM WAY too early after told it's rare for them to go out, now probably damaged the second one.
(4) using voltmeter on coil with no idea whatsoever of what even looking for, that's how second PCM and indeed probably first one too damaged. Sheer incompetence.
(5) wanting to swap out GEM with no idea even of what it does. More incompetence.
(6) crank sensor change with no setting of it. Even more.
(7) PCM diode supposedly 'checked' but no mention of how put back in, if backwards a short.
(8) crank sensor get back to us as to installed right never done, instead, PCM gets changed, great job there. Need it be said again? The 'I' word.
(9) fuel pump being new does not mean it's working and your word for that based on other things done here is worthless as well.
Half truths only make the problem worse and how one gets to 'I am completely stumped', OP was there before he even started, call the tow truck and hope you haven't increased the damage......................it does no good at all to ask others if you don't communicate fully back to them so they can think when you can't. The mark of the unlearned, they change PCM first since that is the part they understand the LEAST, meaning none of the rest is understood either.
Whole issue may well be the wire harness melting issue behind the EGR valve but can't get there while all that miswork going on.
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