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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Actually I do have a small amount of brake. I just had a near collision with some idiot who was not watching the road. I slammed on my brakes and eventually the car stopped. I have anti lock brakes in this 2007 Focus. When I went to use my brakes again the pedal went nearly to the floor. I drove home and checked the fluid and had to add some. Went back in the car with the engine off and it seemed to be okay. Then I started the engine and the pedal goes nearly to the floor and I hear this hissing noise. Pump pump pump hiss hiss hiss. Will not build up pressure. Turn the engine off and it builds up pressure but not like it was before my near collision. Any ideas on what the problem is ? I don't see any leaks of liquid inside at the firewall or in the engine compartment. Need to check my wheels but it was raining and still wet so I have to wait until things dry.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Me again, I think I found the problem or part of it. The right front wheel is leaking tons of brake fluid. As if the line came off the caliper. My reservior is almost dry. What he heck happened. Apply the brakes hard and the wheel blows up. Need to wait for this weather to clear to get under there and check things out. I can't find any power booster unless it's hidden behind the master cylinder in the firewall. I've got my owner's manual out checking to see what I actually have.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update,

The right front hose was blown when I pushed down on the brakes. The rubber was rotted. 2007. 12 year old car, rubber is shot. Check your lines !!!! Just as well it happened when it did and not when it really mattered. I was only doing 25. Cheap Chinese rubber. Guess I better change all of them. You should too or else.
 

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Update,

The right front hose was blown when I pushed down on the brakes. The rubber was rotted. 2007. 12 year old car, rubber is shot. Check your lines !!!! Just as well it happened when it did and not when it really mattered. I was only doing 25. Cheap Chinese rubber. Guess I better change all of them. You should too or else.

Unless your ZX4 has rear disc brakes it wont have hoses in the rear. Brake hoses on ANY vehicle should be inspected annually (or more often). Brake fluid level in the reservoir (which will tell you if you have a leak) should be checked monthly.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Unless your ZX4 has rear disc brakes it wont have hoses in the rear. Brake hoses on ANY vehicle should be inspected annually (or more often). Brake fluid level in the reservoir (which will tell you if you have a leak) should be checked monthly.

Paul
Hi,

Yes, check those hoses every year at least. Even the steel lines in the back. I think that steel is made in China too. I recently restored a 65 Chevelle with original brake lines and not one of the rubber or the steel lines leaked. Just one blown wheel cylinder in the back. Times change and so does the quality of the materials used. Live and learn. Good thing it happend close to home and the speed was low and due to my excellent reaction time and my extraordinary driving skills averted a disaster. Disaster being my insurance rates would have gone up even though it wasn't my fault. Thanks for writing. Lets hope my problem is just those front hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice web site. I've got the sedan model and I really wanted the hatchback but I was desperate and bought the Sedan. It's been a good car. Just hate to see materials going down hill. Maybe later I'll sell this and get a hatchback. Then turn it into something decent.
 

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How does the rear brake if a drum get past the rear suspension working up and down, all metal line won't work there.

Hint: Rock Auto shows rear flexible rubber brake hoses for drum rear there, they are a little shorter than the disc lines are.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I had to edit my response. Yes, there are two more rubber hoses in the back with fittings. So there are four hoses plus those other pieces of hose that are spliced into the steel lines. Lots of places for trouble for sure. Need to check all that rubber for wear and cracks.
 

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@1943 You sound knowledgeable so please let me ask you about my brake problem.
I had to replace all the components in my brake system except booster and ABS module. The previous owner suffered a catastrophic brake failure and basically gave me the car to fix up. FL and RR won't bleed, only a trickle comes out. Any ideas?
 

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@1943 You sound knowledgeable so please let me ask you about my brake problem.
I had to replace all the components in my brake system except booster and ABS module. The previous owner suffered a catastrophic brake failure and basically gave me the car to fix up. FL and RR won't bleed, only a trickle comes out. Any ideas?
Hoses are pinched or there is so much crap in the line that you may need to try to flush back wards or forwards to dislodge. check the hard lines to make sure nothing is pinched.
 

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When I said everything except booster and ABS I meant everything. New steel lines, wheel cylinders, calipers and hoses.

I was thinking 2 brakes on a diagonal aren't coincidence, since that's how you're supposed to bleed- on on a diagonal.
 

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You bleed furthest from the ABS or valve. Not sure what you mean by diagonal.

Just becuase its new does not mean it does not have crap or stuff in it or lines were pinched or bent when being installed.

Also not knowing what the "catastrophic brake failure" was it is hard to know why all that was replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@1943 You sound knowledgeable so please let me ask you about my brake problem.
I had to replace all the components in my brake system except booster and ABS module. The previous owner suffered a catastrophic brake failure and basically gave me the car to fix up. FL and RR won't bleed, only a trickle comes out. Any ideas?
Thanks for the compliment. I'm right in the middle of pulling the rear wheel cylinders out of this 2007. I've put in the new front hoses and just when I thought I was out of the woods some ding dong tightened up those rear bleeder screws so tight their either rusted in place or they used thread locker to hold them in. Not only that a 10mm wrench will not work nor does an 11. They buttered up those screws so bad the only way you can make them turn is to remove the wheel cylinders and put them in a vice then use some vice grips to twist them loose. I have no idea what those rear brake shoes look like and I did not want to replace the wheel cylinders, which you would have to do if I applied heat to the fitting to try and loosen it. You'll end up heating it up so high you might burn the rubber disks in the wheel cylinders and destroy them. Go to all that trouble to loosen them then wonder why your cylinders are leaking. Sooooo, the plan is to remove the drum, which I can not do until my 6 point impact wrench socket gets here. Don't use anything but a 6 point on that rear 30mm nut. !2 point might slip. I'm in a holding pattern until the socket gets here then I can see what's going on inside that drum. Fortunately the screws/bolts that hold the wheel cylinder's in place came loose. You really need to check those hoses and that metal for rust. I was not very impressed. Not only that , the dust cover has got to be the worst design I've ever seen. No lip on them to slip a screw driver into to pry them loose. You end up having to basically destroy them to get to that 30mm nut. Wonder how much repair shops have made on replacing those crummy things. It might have been Okay if you had a straight portion to wrap some channel locks around and twist them loose. But why do that. It's as if the dopes diliberately designed them that way so's you'd have to buy new ones.

Anyway, your problem sounds like clogged lines or else bad rubber somewhere that's leaking. Maybe your wheel cylinder is not pumping like it should since the rears are drum and the fluid is being pushed out by the wheel cylinder rubber disks inside the cylinder's. I'm not that much of an expert on these cars as I am the older ones since I'm what's called the older guy. This is not a bad car if you can fix all the mess other people do to them and check for rust and bad rubber. The engine is the biggest plus since it was designed by Porsche. It's quick if you want to soup it up some and the handling is very responsive. The ABS module is something I'm scared of and is another one of those rip off money makers for the dealerships. Like the seat belt /airbag nightmare light module. Just something that's difficult to get right unless you take it to the dealer and have it tested or reset by those dick heads. Yeah, their all a bunch of dick heads no doubt about that. I don't even know if I have an ABS module or where it is or what you do but stare at it. That's how much I know about that scam.

Good luck !!
 
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