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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Jackson racing suprecharger and I only really feel the boost at around 5500 rpm. How can I fix this?
 

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What is your actual MAP throughout the usable powerband? If it feels like it pulls hardest at 5.5K than what you are probably feeling is the meat of the torque curve. However, if you are experiencing low manifold pressure until 5.5K then you either have a centrifugal supercharger that has not been spun into the efficiency range of the charger (a characteristic of centrifugal chargers) or if you have a positive displacement supercharger you have a leak either with the internal lobes of the charger or throughout the intake plumbing. It is also possible that your bypass valve is failing.... These are general places to start since I do not know of the jackson racing supercharger.
 

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[/B]
What is your actual MAP throughout the usable powerband? If it feels like it pulls hardest at 5.5K than what you are probably feeling is the meat of the torque curve. However, if you are experiencing low manifold pressure until 5.5K then you either have a centrifugal supercharger that has not been spun into the efficiency range of the charger (a characteristic of centrifugal chargers) or if you have a positive displacement supercharger you have a leak either with the internal lobes of the charger or throughout the intake plumbing. It is also possible that your bypass valve is failing.... These are general places to start since I do not know of the jackson racing supercharger.
It's a roots style. Its a very street able safe supercharger. Only looking at about 50hp gains. And yes normal wear can lower rpm needed to achieve pressure.
 

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Easiest way to find any type of vacuum or hose leak on the inlet side of a motor is to buy a can of carb/intake cleaner and start the car leaving it at idle while you lightly spray hoses or fittings in question. You will hear the engine go up in rpm as the leak sucks the cleaner in.
 

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What do you mean by normal wear?
The way a roots style or screw style works it literally is two screws forcing air into a smaller area building up pressure. As it continues to do this the screws will wear against each other causing it to not make a tighter seal. Therefore leaking a bit of air as it compresses. It would have to be rebuilt to fix this. Costing 300-800$.
 

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Get those squared away before you look at anything else. Knock is not good while trying to boost. Can't run with a broken leg if you catch my drift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well my friend is a very experienced mechanic and says that it could be from the person before me trying to run 87 octane trough the engine or a circuit failure.
 

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Well yes circuit failure should mean sensor broke wires bad blah blah blah. But car still thinks its not good so therefore that's no good. As for the 87 oct it could but the light would go back off.
 

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Well several places will scan it and tell you the codes and meanings. But you need to delete them and look at the one that comes on first to repair first. Easiest is unhooking the battery if you don't have a scanner then wait 5min to reconnect. Then take it to get checked.
 

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I do not have an a/f Guage and stock tune
It will NEVER run right on the stock tune , your lucky you even still have a running engine

I can cure all your problems with my custom tune and the car will perform like it came stock with a SC

Tom
 
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