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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I'm new to this forum and brand new to Mechanics and Focuses. I Have a 2012 SE Hatch DCT and All I've done is take the top off the airbox. this is my tentative plan, I would love any input you guys have. The list is in (hopefully) relatively chronological order.

Megan Racing EZ II Coilovers $899 Coil Setup Total: $1027
Megan Racing Front Roll Center Adjusters $128
Cobb tuning RMM $155
RokBlokz Rally Mud Flaps $99.95
Wheels (undecided)
Tires (undecided)
Fswerks Stainless Steel Race Exhaust system $449.9
HID kit (undecided)
Yakima Baseline towers (set of 4) $219
Yakima BaseClip 135 (B10-1) $60
Yakima BaseClip 105 (B36-1) $60
Yakima RoundBar Small 48" $99
Yakima RoundBar SL Adapter $30 Yakima Rack Total: $1255
Yakima 46 inch WindShield $119
Yakima SKS Lock 4 Pack $60
Yakima OffGrid Medium $449
Yakima OfGrid Extension (Medium) $159
EBC Brakes S10KF1201 $370.82
Steeda CAI $299.95
Tune $462
Megan Racing Front Sway Bar $194 Sway Bar Total: $356
Megan Racing Rear Sway Bar $162
Misc. visual mods
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$4475.67 +shipping


Thanks again!!
 

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Before you spend anything on that list if mods you should read up on the DCT in the many threads about it on this site. Wait long enough to be sure you did not get one of the lemons before spending any money modding it and consider getting the tune from Focus Power ("Tom's custom tune") to make it better if it needs that, or to keep it running right if it's working OK. You'll see posts from him, and from other owners who have bought his tune in some of those DCT threads. Or, read his thread in the "Mk3 Performance" area.

I like that your emphasis seems to be on improving handling first.

For wheels, read about "construction methods" at tirerack.com if you're not already aware of the differences, and pay at least as much attention to weight as to style. Adding weight that is "unsprung" rotating mass (which wheels are) is detrimental to performance, handling, and ride comfort. Unfortunately, the ones that use "flow forming" aka "rotary forging" to keep them both strong and light are much more expensive.

Sadly, the wheels I had always thought looked best on a Mk3 Focus -- the 17" x 7" black painted + machined face "Black Pack" alloys or the 18" x 8" ST "snowflake" alloys -- turned out to be boat anchors at 24# and 27#, respectively, compared to 19# for the stock 16" x 7" 5-spoke alloys.

The specs for the 17" x 8" Enkie RPF1s look good, but don't think that style would look as good on a Focus as they do (IMO) on a Subaru STI or Honda S2000.

You can also check americastire.com for some alternatives not sold by TireRack. They have some good possibilities, too, but their website is not as good for setting filter criteria to find them. Shopping just for style and price, as I used to before learning about all the rest, was sure simpler. (Ignorance was bliss.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
For wheels I was thinking either the Konig Lockout 18x8.5 43 or XXR 567 18x8.5 35 and for tires I was thinking Kenda Vezda UHP AS 235/40ZR18.
Edit: I've had the car since October and nothing has come up yet with the DCT.
 

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I'll second the idea of making sure that you get the DCT taken care of first. If you can't put power to the ground, you aren't going anywhere. Given the other things that you want, I'd probably start with looking at Tom's tune for the DCT before you do anything else.

I would probably also do the sway bars before doing the coilovers. The coilovers are going to look nice for stance, but I believe that the sway bars are probably better bang-for-the-buck, and combining those with a nice sticky set of tires will do good things for your handling even on stock struts (Unless your stock struts are worn out, and are in more immediate need of replacement.)

It is my humble opinion that for handling and braking, there is NOTHING more important than the tires, since no matter what else, the tires are what connect you to the ground. If you want good handling, this is the one place that you absolutely cannot cheap out on. The 5X108 lug pattern is a little bit limiting, but still better than the 4X108 lugs of the older generation Focus. I really wish that we had 5X114.3, which would allow much more choices, (For example, it would let me use one of the several sets of rims already in my garage) but I guess we get what we get.

For the idea of an HID kit please please please consider a proper retrofit, and don't just stuff HID lamps into the stock headlight housings. HID lamps in the stock housings always mess with the beam pattern, and while they look "whiter" they can seriously detract from safety. A proper projector beam setup with HIDs will look great and actually improve your visibility for night time driving. Short of that, you are literally better off with stock lights.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Ahh, I figured it would be better to get it tuned after I put all the speedy bits on but that's why I'm here haha. For the HIDs I was planning on doing a full retrofit I just didn't know which kit I wanted to do (if there are multiple). And as for the sway bars that is a good point, I just figured them as kind of an afterthought but they are more useful than I figured
 

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From what I've read, if you get the tune kit from Tom, it includes updates, so you can/should get it adjusted as you upgrade other items.

My guess here is that you're going to be engaged in some "spirited driving" probably well before your upgrade path is done, so like I said, get the known weak point addressed first.
 
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As for headlights get some OEM ST HID ones.

Never had Yakima but my full thule rack set up has been great so look into that too.
 

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I have eibach sportline springs and steeda rear swaybar. This combination with Michelin pilot super sports work great. Believe it or not the car actually over steers slightly in corners when pushed hard. Unless its for looks I think the gains from coil overs will be minimal unless your doing competitive events. Springs and swaybay are alot less money.
 
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