I just got done upgrading to a 16G and FMIC from my original 14b (blown seals) SMIC setup. Now whenever I hit full boost and keep it there, the car just falls flat on its face as if I had slammed on the brakes. Anybody know what's causing this? Would it be the tune that was made for the old turbo?
new turbo, new problems
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I hope that's the solution. It'd make things a lot easier, lol.
I don't know though. The 16g and 14b are supposed to be relatively the same turbo with the 16 g being slightly bigger. I could hit full boost with the 14b at 4K rpms and it takes me about 5K with the 16g. Would that much of a difference cause problems with the tune/maybe maxing out the stock fuel pump?
I don't know though. The 16g and 14b are supposed to be relatively the same turbo with the 16 g being slightly bigger. I could hit full boost with the 14b at 4K rpms and it takes me about 5K with the 16g. Would that much of a difference cause problems with the tune/maybe maxing out the stock fuel pump?
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Even the small increase in flow efficiency is going to throw things out of whack. Best guess is that you're going to have to retune. That 16g should be spooling up alot sooner than 5k rpms.
Could be MAF issues. Can you adjust the MAFia at all manually without a tune?
Could be MAF issues. Can you adjust the MAFia at all manually without a tune?
I don't have a MAFia, I have a 05+ Mustang slot style MAF with a housing that's welded straight into my 2.5" charge piping.
42 lb/hr green tops. I would think they'd still be good. I do still have the stock fuel pump, do you think that could be the issue? I have an SVT pump, I just haven't had the time or money to have someone install it. That's the only thing I don't want to install myself as I don't want to mess with the gas tank.
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5,413 Posts
I was just asking because I thought it was a fuel delivery issue from the get go. Your issue sounds like your leaning out and the car's pulling timing to avoid pulling the pin on the grenade.
Hopefully OrangeSVT (John) or Tom can step in to confirm this.
Hopefully OrangeSVT (John) or Tom can step in to confirm this.
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I will never understand why people go through the trouble to go to the slotted MAF electronics there is NO advantage to them at all
If you change turbos you MUST change the tune your lucky you have left your engine all over the road already
Tom
Take the MAF up with Lasota Racing. Don steered me in the direction of VMP Tuning and their slot style MAFs because he thought it'd be better to not have any reducers or change in piping size near the MAF.
So this is probably just an issue with the tuning not being up to date with the new turbo?
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Yes more then likely just a tuning issue
Like I said the newer slot style doesnt do anything that your stock MAF electronics wouldnt of done , changing in piping size has little effect on the MAF its turns that cause the biggest issues
Tom
Like I said the newer slot style doesnt do anything that your stock MAF electronics wouldnt of done , changing in piping size has little effect on the MAF its turns that cause the biggest issues
Tom
Ha, go figure. Wish I would've talked to you before talking to Lasota Racing.
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If you change the turbo you need to change the tune.
I can't believe you haven't melted a piston. The 16g flows way more than the 14b. While size might be close the turbine and compressor wheels are very different. This will change your A/F dramatically and you are running extremely lean thats why its falling on its face.
You should spool around 3800 or 4k, if you have a CAT it could be clogged.
I can't believe you haven't melted a piston. The 16g flows way more than the 14b. While size might be close the turbine and compressor wheels are very different. This will change your A/F dramatically and you are running extremely lean thats why its falling on its face.
You should spool around 3800 or 4k, if you have a CAT it could be clogged.
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Yes a boost leak would def cause that.
Find a thick plastic bag (2). Put one over the turbo inlet, put the other over the TB. Put the silicone hose over these and clamp down with your clamps.
Then hook up your Air compressor to one of the ports on the turbo. Charge the system to 5psi or so. Run your hand along the piping and look for a leak.
Find a thick plastic bag (2). Put one over the turbo inlet, put the other over the TB. Put the silicone hose over these and clamp down with your clamps.
Then hook up your Air compressor to one of the ports on the turbo. Charge the system to 5psi or so. Run your hand along the piping and look for a leak.
Well I've been keeping the car out of boost until I get retuned, so hopefully the tune will fix whatever's wrong.
As far as the slow spool time, I had the same problems with the old turbo when I was using 1.75" hot side piping. Now I'm using almost all 2.5" charge piping, but there is a little section from the j-pipe and a short distance down that's 1.75". Would this affect spool time?
As far as the slow spool time, I had the same problems with the old turbo when I was using 1.75" hot side piping. Now I'm using almost all 2.5" charge piping, but there is a little section from the j-pipe and a short distance down that's 1.75". Would this affect spool time?
Is it just a normal 16g? I know there are sevral different ones just wondering.
But yes i know from experince that you need to tune your car after every turbo change!! And from reading on here I would go to tom for any turbo needs as I will be doing soon if everything goes right!!
But yes i know from experince that you need to tune your car after every turbo change!! And from reading on here I would go to tom for any turbo needs as I will be doing soon if everything goes right!!
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