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Please help me understand this "learning" transmission. It's shift differently from any other vechile I've ever had. Is there a way to get rid of the lag in stand still accelaration?
 

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Please help me understand this "learning" transmission. It's shift differently from any other vechile I've ever had. Is there a way to get rid of the lag in stand still accelaration?
The PowerShift 6 Speed Transmission is designed to provide the feel and efficiency of a manual transmission with the easy driving of an automatic. The PowerShift transmission automatically engages the next gear in anticipation of the shift, providing seamless shifting. It also has neutral idling, which disengages the transmission when sitting at idle, and helps to maximize fuel efficiency.

Because the PowerShift 6 Speed Transmission operates similarly to a manual transmission, you may notice some characteristics that provide a unique driving experience from the automatic transmission you may be used to:
  • When you take your foot off the accelerator pedal and the vehicle begins to slow down you may perceive a light to medium braking sensation as the transmissions makes adjustments.
  • During the break in period, the transmission may shift quicker or harder. This will smooth out after a short period of time.
  • You may hear mechanical noises when driving.
  • You may feel a difference when pulling away from a stop.

Some vehicles may also be equipped with Select Shift, which allows you to manually shift gears by selecting the plus and minus buttons on your vehicle's toggle switch when the vehicle is in the Sport Mode (S on the shift column).

For more information, check out your Owner Manual, and this video.

If you believe it is not operating properly, I recommend heading to your dealer for a diagnosis.

Meagan
 

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Moved to the MkIII section from "Tuning Chat"

As that description implied, it's disengaged in neutral at a full stop. Prev. fluid drive automatics you're used to are in gear & trying to move in that situation. Press the pedal to accelerate & it needs to shift & engage the clutch to move.
 

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I highly recommend you check out this thread:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=415994

I don't know how up to speed you are on the Focus DCT so you may know some or all of what's included here but if you're pretty new to everything, this is a good primer.

It does take some getting used to; for me it was about 1000 miles, or about two weeks after first buying it before I got really used to how it reacted.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all very much. It's just a different feel from an automatic transmission that I am not use to yet. I will definitely check the other links so I can learn more.
 

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Knocking on 1k miles on my '14 Focus se Hatchback and surprised to report not one instance where I had clutch slippage or "stutter"....

Just envision a Futurama Fry meme with this caption "Not sure if Ford fixed DCT issues, or just lucky". My build date was 6/14 if that has any bearing on it...
 

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The DCT is a whole different animal.

It is trying to learn how you drive so it can work for you in your over all driving style. My new 2014 bought last week has screwed around with it's learning curve soooo bad it is now the family joke. The joke at work and has garnered some strange looks from other drivers.

My brother drove it today and I drove his 2013 TDI Jetta w/DSG. He asked if he wanted me to shoot the tranny with his .50 BMG and put it out of it's misery. No not the .50 BMG. Here use my 10mm Glock. No reason to ruin the rest of the car. We had a big laugh about it until he saw my mpg on that tank and trip #2 cleared and set for the trip to his home. He is getting 42mpg on ave. And the tank I was on was setting at 43mpg. Better mpg and cheaper fuel. His Jetta is faster and the tq is addicting as is the transmission.

His DSG in the base Jetta is nice! If your easy on it. It acts like a CVT. If you romp on it and demand it's best. It hits gear just right with firm shifts and no funny stuff. Stays right on the tq curve. And it handles better. But it's not as quiet nor as comphy over all. Nor does the tranny make noise like a dying Steam Punk Machine. And it never has. The Jetta is early 2013 production. And wet clutch. No Urea tank. He got one of the last good ones.

It appears the transmission is designed well from a mechanical principle for the most part. Actually one of the better dry clutch designs. There failings have been in the control programming. Actuators and dry rings. The type of seal ( basic half ass lip seal ) the design alone is guarantied to fail. And it appears they very well may have used a Buna grade martial to make the seal in the beginning.. The newest seal appears to be a Viton class martial. And the seal surface contact point is wider. And may well be variegated and in some part relying on the surface tension of the tranny fluid to help make the seal and cool the running surfaces.

So OP it's going to be a interesting ride. :)

Good Luck!
 

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Moved to the MkIII section from "Tuning Chat"

As that description implied, it's disengaged in neutral at a full stop. Prev. fluid drive automatics you're used to are in gear & trying to move in that situation. Press the pedal to accelerate & it needs to shift & engage the clutch to move.
The DCT "gearbox" is in 1st while in 'D' and not moving.
 

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...The type of seal ( basic half ass lip seal ) the design alone is guarantied to fail.
How would you have designed the seal differently? And please tell us of your seal design experience and the manufacturers that have used your seal design.
 

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My DCT has 8000 miles and runs well, no shudder as it did up to 500 miles.

I like that I can get it in gear and not feel the 'neutral drop clunk' as with most automatics. Also, when slowing down to a red light and then accelerating again from 10 mph if it turns green right away, it downshifts as I want it. Previous cars with 4 speed autos seemed to stay in 3rd gear and groaned, going slow.
 

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800 miles so far on my new 2014 Focus and it upshifts/downshifts real smooth with no hesitation or stutter.
 

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At the end of August I posted this:

Here's my problem, my trans about 65% of the time, runs like a Swiss watch. The other 35% of the time, I get a serious shudder. I want to take in in, but I don't want the "Swiss watch" trans when they check it out.
Now, in November, my transmission runs like a Swiss watch 85% of the time, actually, it may be almost 90% of the time.


A little background info on my Focus:

She was a rental car. Bought her with 38,900 miles. So I'm guessing that of all the people who rented this car, most of them, if even any, had no clue what an auto DCT is. So the DCT probably had a horrible break in period.

So my question is.....

Even after all those miles, and poor driving habits by all those rental drivers, can and is this transmission re-learning how to operate? Because the longer I've had her, the better the DCT shifts, and the shuddering has gotten less a lot frequent and less harsh.

BTW, I have put 6700 miles on her since I bought her.
 

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IMHO, based SOLELY on manual trans. experience, the longer you drive a clutch type trans. while avoiding "shudder" provoking situations the less chance of it "shuddering" in the future.

This refers only to what would be called "Chatter" or "Shudder" with a normal manual trans.. With those, once clutch chatter starts you have only three choices.

1. replace the clutch

2. "burn" it smooth with intentional repeated smooth slippage. (reduces life somewhat)

3. drive it in a manner that avoids chatter as much as possible, smooths it out over time so eventually it's no more likely to chatter again than any other clutch.

Brindfan - it sound like you've been doing the DCT version of the third option & it's working for you. Nice to hear it's not such a PITA anymore. Relearning is a constant with the DCT, if only to adjust for wear. It's supposed to do that to an extent to adapt to driving style as well - I think it likes you.
 

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At the end of August I posted this:



Now, in November, my transmission runs like a Swiss watch 85% of the time, actually, it may be almost 90% of the time.


A little background info on my Focus:

She was a rental car. Bought her with 38,900 miles. So I'm guessing that of all the people who rented this car, most of them, if even any, had no clue what an auto DCT is. So the DCT probably had a horrible break in period.

So my question is.....

Even after all those miles, and poor driving habits by all those rental drivers, can and is this transmission re-learning how to operate? Because the longer I've had her, the better the DCT shifts, and the shuddering has gotten less a lot frequent and less harsh.

BTW, I have put 6700 miles on her since I bought her.
I got mine as a former "corporate priced" rental with barely 18k on it, 1 year old. 3rd day I had it it had what I like to call "complete loss of power to the wheels event" while going uphill on my busy morning commute... Even though I got it off a used car lot, the local dealer took good care of me and had mine fixed in a couple of days, doing the complete TSB available in the spring... Now 12k later, I'm getting some clutch chatter and slippage again I think. Before this, it was a little "clunky" shifting into 3rd I believe... I'm just glad the dealer has taken care of me, it looks like it needs to be serviced again... I even have come from driving manuals and was easy with the throttle on/off transitions... hmmm, I'm not real happy it's acting up, but different this time.
 

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I bought a 2014 titanium DCT, with 3500 miles, and the car has the Injected Engineering tune. I have put about 400 miles on the car. At this point, it runs beautifully. So far I think the two most important things are: 1) The right foot should make complete and total contact with the accelerator. 2) when starting up from a stop, drive the car decisively.

Think about it this way, when driving a manual transmission, once you slip the clutch, and put the car into gear, you have to apply the gas and get going. Same exact reasoning with the DCT. And by driving decisively, I don't mean that you have to shove the accelerator to the floor. saying it another way, don't feather the gas.
 

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I bought a 2014 titanium DCT, with 3500 miles, and the car has the Injected Engineering tune. I have put about 400 miles on the car. At this point, it runs beautifully. So far I think the two most important things are: 1) The right foot should make complete and total contact with the accelerator. 2) when starting up from a stop, drive the car decisively.

Think about it this way, when driving a manual transmission, once you slip the clutch, and put the car into gear, you have to apply the gas and get going. Same exact reasoning with the DCT. And by driving decisively, I don't mean that you have to shove the accelerator to the floor. saying it another way, don't feather the gas.
Exactly... even then you can get caught letting off the throttle right when it wants to shift as well, leading to some harsh shifts... it's tough to explain to those who have never driven manual but yes, steady and decisive throttle with minimal on/off transitions is the best wording to summarize.
 

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My wife's 2014 SE hatchback was perfectly fine up until around 600 miles when we felt the first stutter. Now after about 7600 miles it stutters real bad while running errands around town. It seems to get worse as it warms up... When just going to work she drives about 2.5 miles, parks it for 8 hrs and comes home, it wont do it then, just only while running around town, stop & go.... We also get the chatter while making left hand turns and it now slips/stutters going into second.... It almost makes me think its a software issue than mechanical, cause I wonder if its slipping because it thinks its overheating?... Regardless, it shouldnt happen on a brand new vehicle with 7600 miles that we're paying on.... Other than that she loves the car, we both do....But the trans performs like it came off a car with 250,00 miles... [:(]
 

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Interesting that it's failed so early on a 2014 but if you take it back to the dealer they should absolutely give you a free loaner car while they get the leaking seals and clutches replaced with the very latest versions... Usually that's all that's wrong with it and will be good going forward. Make sure the dealer knows that you know the difference between "normal DCT operations" and bad shudder that indicates a real problem. If you have to remind them there is a TSB on it on how to test it and repair it for that exact issue. If you get the run-around the Ford reps on here have been helpful in getting people the resolution they need. Good luck!
 
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