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how easy/hard was it putting them in. im not the best when it comes to mechanical shiiiiiiiiit
 

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Discussion Starter #3
make sure that you are at TDC (Top Dead center) on cylinder 1
remove the valve cover
remove the cam retainers
take out old cams
put in new cams.

It can be a challenging install for the rookie. And the risk for
engine damage is great if not installed properly. If you
have any doubts, let the pros screw with it. Total cost
with labor should put you around 450.00 - 650.00
But, it is one of the mods that is worth all the money
and get the most GO out of all the bolts on.
Excluding Turbo/SC of course
 

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He forgot a few simple things. You'll need a basic torque wrench, just get a bar type which costs anywhere from $20-35. The cam bearings which he called retainers MUST BE NUMBERED and not mixed up. Use a rag to wipe off the oil, then use a Sharpie permanent marker to mark the bearings according to their position on the head, be sure to mark the direction of the bearing for those numbers where the lettering won't give direction like I-1 for intake bearing #1. This is very important! If you mix up the bearings, or turn a bearing in the opposite direction you will destroy the head. There are no replacable camshaft bearings on a stock Duratec.

You'll also need a cam alignment tool if it doesn't come with the cams, and a manual to know your torque specs for the cam bearings, valve cover, and camshaft sprocket bolt. I was never able to get a torque tool on the camshaft sprocket bolt myslelf and had to use a 1-1/8 box end wrench for leverage on a long handled 1/2 box end to tighten it as tight as possible. The spec is 40 lbs, but a crow's foot would round off the bolt, a small socket won't fit in the space, and I don't have a 6 pt box end square drive wrench.

You'll also need an 8mm x 1.5 pitch x1" or longer bolt to bolt in the flywheel to align the motor at TDC. This will not stop the motor from turning under force! I also put my transmission in reverse, and chocked the front and rear wheels to help stop the motor. If you have an automatic, Ford sells a tool to lock the motor at TDC so you can torque the camshaft sprocket bolts.

You really should get a manual and read how things are put together, as well as have someone who is familiar with chain driven OHC motors like Nissans on hand to help you. There's no danger of the chain falling through the timing cover, however, you can release tension sufficiently on the chain to slip teeth on the crankshaft sprocket, and you may not be able to get it back on without removing the timing cover which would take the better part of another day if you're good with cars.

I'd find a Ford mechanic to help me, and even most Ford mechanics are not extremely familiar with the Duratec because it's so new.

Good luck.
 

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but you guys still never answered his question which has my interests sparked now.

I am getting Crane Stg.1's and I am not going to do any kind of valve relief or anything... so what is this he is talking about?
 

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ok so need ot freak out now. there needs to be no head work done. just put them in and your good. wayne called me last night about the cam group buy and everything is on the road n up and running
 

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that posting was from zetecs. the cam lobes are different as well as are the heads.most zetecs require work when goin to larger cams as explained by walter in the group buy thread.
 

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Still haven't heard from walter yet...but I'm sure he will call me.

I just ordered a new throttlebody from him since they are on sale (well, I ordered it a few days ago).

I'm trying to get this beast to 190 crank hp NA without removing the head or raising compression...I think I'll need an intake manifold to get there...I think sometime this fall or spring I'm going to drive out to socal and get my focus on the dyno at focussport and get this beast tuned better than the regular tune will do.
 

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um... sir...LOL

YOu will have thing to a 190 crank hp in like no time... a 2.3 can get like 180 whp with no head work so... 190 is VERY achiveable with the common bolt-on's... although you should know that...LOL
 

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Yeah it will be close..lol.
intake, header, exhaust, tune, cams (adjusted), throttlebody, and if they sell them, the cossie 2.0 manifold...yeah, it will be close..lol
 

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WickedlyFastST said:
but you guys still never answered his question which has my interests sparked now.
I'm sorry, I didn't answer that because I knew it was hogwash, and then I forgot to answer. [V] There's NO way to grind anything on the Duratec head for relief anyway, and I felt sure that Howard Crane wouldn't design a cam that needed modification to the engine to install.

Wait, it was possible, but still hogwash, I think the writer of that original article was referring to side clearances or something- definately nothing to do with the cam contacting the cups/valves.
 
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