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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So last week, when the new Steeda STS became available, I ordered one without hesitation. Due to my not being home Saturday, and FedEx not delivering on Monday's, I didn't get it until today.

I installed it about 20 minutes after i got home.

The result: I LOVE IT! :)
While I have not used the old Steeda/Ford Racing STS, the new one feels great. Throws feel short, the height is perfect, and everything feels tight.

The review, (and a how-to writeup tomorrow night) is as follows:

Delivery: As I ordered the STS BEFORE it was actually assembled, it took them 2 days to ship it. No problems here.

Installation: Pretty easy, thorough directions and overall helpful pictures. It should have taken about 45 minutes, but it took me longer as I was taking pictures along the way, and had a bit of trouble getting some of the screws tight (which I'll note in the how-to). No major modifications necessary, and the only tools I needed were: a screwdriver, a boxcutter/scissors, and some wire cutters.

Actual Product: Everything feels good, and so far I really like the way it shifts. I ordered a Steeda polished shift knob to complete the setup, and (at least with the Steeda knob) no spring is needed for the reverse lockout delete. Everything is tight and works great. Note that the Steeda shaft feels much heavier than the stock shaft, and feels great when shifting.


All in all, at $120 this STS is definitely worth a look when your shopping for an STS.

Pictures & How-To
I just realized that my pictures don't fully emphasize the shaft height. Notice that each view of the Steeda STS is closer than the same stock picture. I didn't mean to do this, but just so everyone is aware, the Steeda truly is about 1.5 inches shorter than the stock assembly.


Stock shifter rear view:


Steeda STS rear view:


Stock side view:


Steeda STS side view:


Steeda Shaft VS. Stock Shaft


I'm going to basically follow what Steeda sent as the instructions, as they were very accurate. [People who don't have the reverse lockout will be able to skip a few steps...these will be marked with an asterisk*]

1) Remove the shifter knob by unscrewing it from the shaft.

2) Release the base of the shifter boot by pushing the rear gently towards the shifter and lifting up.

3*) Remove the reverse lockout spring.

4*) Pull the shifter boot up the shaft and inside out. Cut the zip tie that holds the boot to the shaft.

5) Pry the shift cable off of the cable mount located on the front of the shaft.

6) Loosen and remove the screw holding the cable mount, and slide it upwards and off the shaft. SAVE THIS PIECE.

7*) Slide the reverse lockout upwards and off the shaft. Discard.

8) Remove the 4 screws in the shifter base cover, and remove the cover. USE A SCREWDRIVER THAT FITS PERFECTLY, THESE SCREWS WERE EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO TIGHTEN OR LOOSEN, AND CAN STRIP EASILY.

9) Pull upward and towards the drivers side on the shaft, and remove from the z-bar bushing. Remove the entire shaft.

10) Pull the pivot sleeve (round plastic piece) off the stock shaft pivot ball.

11) Apply grease [provided] to the pivot sleeve and pivot ball, and attach pivot sleeve to the Steeda shaft pivot ball. Make sure the the flat piece on the sleeve is facing the front of the shaft [the rear has the little pin on the shaft]

12) Apply grease to the side pin. To re-install, place side pin into the socket of the z-bar, and then match up the flat spot on the pivot sleeve with that of the base.

13) Make sure that the z-bar bushings are properly seated, and that the pivot sleeve is fully inserted into the base.

14) Re-install the shifter base cover with the 4 screws you removed [Again, be careful not to strip them. Tightening the screws in a cross pattern about a half turn at a time to keep pressure a little more even seems to help.. (courtesy of Wodan23)]

15) Put the cable mount back on and slide it down the shaft until the bottom hits the pin. Tighten with the screw you removed earlier. [If you experience any clearance problems with the front console, you can slide the cable mount down so that the pin is in the opening that gets screwed shut. I did not have any clearance problems, and so used the pin as a marker.]

16) Pop the cable back onto the mounting ball. [At this point you may want to attach the shift knob, and ensure that the shifter can still put your car into every gear without any obstructions].

17*) Using the provided 'billet reverse lockout', flip the boot inside out and attach to the billet lockout with the provided ziptie.

18*) The front of the plastic trim attached to the boot may need to be trimmed down. Do this with wire cutters, or any tool you desire, but DO NOT CUT OFF THE CLIPS!

19) Install the shifter boot, and pop back into place on the console.

20) Install the shifter ball, and tighten down all the way to prevent the billet lockout from rattling.

Congratulations, you have now installed your new Steeda STS!

I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!
 

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GreyRice WOoT!
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cant wait to hear, im sure its a thicker stronger peice then stock, cant wait to see it all done up
 

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yea ill bet i know EXACTLY what screws were tough to get tight again. i wonder why that is? hmm? for ppl who haven't seen already heres some sneak peaks:





I'm sure Tantalus will have much better pics than me. can't wait to see the how-to.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Regrettably I didn't get to take any pics during the install. I was trying to finish before it got dark, and my hands were covered in grease. Grease+ expensive camera = don't mix!

But there we have it. Wodan, if you have anything to add to the How-To, definitely shoot me a PM and I'll put it in :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I'd also like to note that while many people have had issues with Steeda, I experienced no problems whatsoever. For the price, I'd definitely recommend this STS.
 
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Force-Powered Focus
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okay guys, so give me the skinny. how tight is it? does it feel weird, with the height being shorter? any harder to reach it? weird getting used to it?

for those interested, PM me for a deal on this sts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's pretty tight. It could be a little more so, theres still a little little teeny wiggle in gear. The height is actually much more comfortable than stock, I really like it. Weird..a little, since each throw is like 1/4 of what it was. But I every time I hop in my car now I look forward to using it!
 

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Why is it that the "short throw shifters" always seem more short than short-throw?

I just want a shorter shift pattern. I don't want to have to reach into the transmission to shift the thing.
 

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Head Hurt
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Can anyone provide some details?

Does the stock shift cable connection sit higher on the new stick?

How long is that new stick? (From the top of the main pivot ball at the bottom to the tip) For comparison that measurement on the stock stick is 10 1/4”, well on my 08’ at least)

How far does the stick travel from neutral to 3rd or 4th (shortest throws in the pattern)
 

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Head Hurt
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It's pretty tight. It could be a little more so, theres still a little little teeny wiggle in gear.
You should be able to get rid of that if you can locate some solid metal bushing to replace the rubber ones at the base of the shifter. Like the blue ones pictured below. Those create a rock solid base with no play. They are not just flat though, they're milled on the bottom side so that they fill the existing hole where the rubber busings reside.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
The stock cable mount sits MUCH higher on the stick. The stick was cut down an inch and a half or so (I don't have the exact measurements and I'm not taking it all back apart though). Where the cable mount is moved to is literally JUST below the billet reverse lockout.

And from 3rd to 4th, I'll let you know. i just got home from a 12 hour day, and I don't feel like getting back on my feet yet :) I'll post it tomorrow Brad.

I'll just tell you right now that it's VERY short and I love it :p
 

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Head Hurt
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Thanks, man after a 12 hour day I don't blame you. Relax, have a nice cold beer, switch on the TV and forget about the world for as long as you can. [cheers]
Code:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Haha, I'm due back there tomorrow at 7 am too lol.

And I can't drink, I'm only 18! :D

Hahaha, but I'll get that info up for ya either tomorrow or Sunday. I forgot im running up to mount washington for a meet! (if anyone else even shows up)
 

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Head Hurt
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Haha, I'm due back there tomorrow at 7 am too lol.

And I can't drink, I'm only 18! :D

Hahaha, but I'll get that info up for ya either tomorrow or Sunday. I forgot im running up to mount washington for a meet! (if anyone else even shows up)
Well congrats man, that's one hell of a work ethic for an 18 year old. Don't worry about my silly questions when you're working that hard. [pray]
 

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You should be able to get rid of that if you can locate some solid metal bushing to replace the rubber ones at the base of the shifter. Like the blue ones pictured below. Those create a rock solid base with no play. They are not just flat though, they're milled on the bottom side so that they fill the existing hole where the rubber busings reside.

so is it designed like this?




May have to try and find some from the hardware store that will fit. See if it helps any.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Haha ive always been like this...like i said i'll have time sunday definitely :p
 

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Head Hurt
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so is it designed like this?




May have to try and find some from the hardware store that will fit. See if it helps any.
Exactly, check the pic below, I just got another STS from Ebay for comparision purposes and those are the bushings I'm talking about.



In fact I was just about done writing up my comparison between the one from Ebay and the F2USA STS when some damn CGI error came up and I lost the whole freek'n thing. [:(!]
 
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